Lazy rear door locking pin

awvc1 · 21st January 2016, 21:34

my rear drivers door will not unlock on the first press of the central locking remote. All the others do before anyones asks if single point entry is enabled, this was fixed via T4 2 days ago, yet still that rear door 'sticks'.

The first press opens all the doors but this one. the second press either raises it, or half raises it, and sometimes it takes a 3rd press to fully open it and allow the door to be opened from the external handle.

Does anyone know if there is a cheap cure for this and what that might be, or is this likely to require a new rear door actuator?

freck · 21st January 2016, 22:03

I'd like to know an answer to this too as mine does the same....very odd!

I wonder if it's a common issue?

awvc1 · 21st January 2016, 22:18

I now know of 4 cars, including mine and yours that exhibit this issue. But I still don't know any answer. Can anyone help here at all please?

Monty Hotspur · 21st January 2016, 22:25

Could well be the lubricant covering the mechanism is drying out and the increased friction is making the lock a bit lazy to unlatch.

Monty Hotspur · 21st January 2016, 22:27

Mine's done it for years on the N/S/R door btw. I really should pop the door card off and spray some silicon lube around the mechanism. Maybe in the summer when it's warmer.

Bolin · 21st January 2016, 22:40

I have been told that it can be to do with the fitting of the door card.

Mine does this too. Not tried fixing it yet.

Forestgreen · 21st January 2016, 23:17

Had this with my car and Terry Shires replaced the lock mechanism with a used (but fully working) replacement.

genpk · 22nd January 2016, 02:24

Only two ways to sort it out and ive done both.
No matter what you will need to remove the door card,dust panel and undo a bottom bolt holding your window track in place.
One way is to replace the whole lock actuator unit (the front door ones are the same as mini cooper) the other is to pull the unit out,pull it to bits and rebuild it (fidley and time consuming)
Basically in the actuator locks,there is the mechanical bits which sometimes get clogged up and stick (the latching parts that click when you shut your doors)
These can be sparayed via the latch bit you see on your door.
The other part is the electronic parts which all live in a sealed nylon case within the lock and no amount of spraying will ever reach these parts.
They comprise of 2 x small electric motors (lock and unlock) about 3 or 4 micro switches which activate the locks when things like your key is used in the lock etc.
What usually happens is the one or more of the electronic parts (usually one of the small electric motors) fails by the brushes getting clogged up or worn and stops working,thus you can have unlock working but no locking happening.Or on my car,everything was working except i could not get key when in the lock to unlock,it would lock fine.
Quite probably the small mirco switch not working for the unlock
There is quite a good article on "indestructables" rebuilding a mini cooper door lock which is exactly the same.
They go down to even pulling the small electric motor to bits,cleaning the brushes.I just get an old lock and swap the motors out.
I repaired a few of the locks but as the drivers door acts a a mater lock for the rest of the car , I will probably get a new drivers lock actuator from Rimmers as having only one keyed entry to the car I want it reliable.
The other locks are worth having a go at if you have time and patience and take lots of pictures as its a bit like a clock

21st January 2016, 21:34	#1
awvc1 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 1,177 Thanks: 221 Thanked 258 Times in 196 Posts	Lazy rear door locking pin my rear drivers door will not unlock on the first press of the central locking remote. All the others do before anyones asks if single point entry is enabled, this was fixed via T4 2 days ago, yet still that rear door 'sticks'. The first press opens all the doors but this one. the second press either raises it, or half raises it, and sometimes it takes a 3rd press to fully open it and allow the door to be opened from the external handle. Does anyone know if there is a cheap cure for this and what that might be, or is this likely to require a new rear door actuator? __________________ White Gold ConnSE, 2003 Mods: FBH Revotec Fan Inline 'stat Xenon lights + washers BMW MK4 satnav, clock mod, BT ulf, 16:9 screen & TV upgraded BM54 + BT Aux-in Miracast box Glasses holder Flip Key Spyhole +Jules plenum shield PPD - badges,rear plinth, carpeted heater panels, anchor bolts, reflectors Walnut Dash, handbrake+gearshift Twin Horns Drivers cupholder HK Speakers Chrome bullet mirrors Digital speedo LED interior bulbs Resler interface USB charging sockets x2

21st January 2016, 22:03	#2
freck Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDT Connie Tourer Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Preston Posts: 1,051 Thanks: 142 Thanked 274 Times in 226 Posts	I'd like to know an answer to this too as mine does the same....very odd! I wonder if it's a common issue? __________________ Steve Teamwork makes the dream work! Mods planned - Cruise retrofit - Done, ZT front bumper - Done, 160 remap - Done...and probably one or two more This vehicle was the 15,751st 75 Tourer to run off the production line, out of 27,407 This vehicle was the 3,726th 75 Tourer CDT Connoisseur to be made out of 4,100 This vehicle was the 732nd 75 Tourer in Starlight Silver (code: MBB) to be made out of 4,100 Starlight Silver 75 Tourers

21st January 2016, 22:18	#3
awvc1 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 1,177 Thanks: 221 Thanked 258 Times in 196 Posts	I now know of 4 cars, including mine and yours that exhibit this issue. But I still don't know any answer. Can anyone help here at all please? __________________ White Gold ConnSE, 2003 Mods: FBH Revotec Fan Inline 'stat Xenon lights + washers BMW MK4 satnav, clock mod, BT ulf, 16:9 screen & TV upgraded BM54 + BT Aux-in Miracast box Glasses holder Flip Key Spyhole +Jules plenum shield PPD - badges,rear plinth, carpeted heater panels, anchor bolts, reflectors Walnut Dash, handbrake+gearshift Twin Horns Drivers cupholder HK Speakers Chrome bullet mirrors Digital speedo LED interior bulbs Resler interface USB charging sockets x2

21st January 2016, 22:40	#6
Bolin This is my second home Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE 4dr manual Wedgewood Blue 2 04-05/06/2001 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: N.E. Hampshire Posts: 4,617 Thanks: 289 Thanked 308 Times in 243 Posts	I have been told that it can be to do with the fitting of the door card. Mine does this too. Not tried fixing it yet. __________________ "...the new Rover 75, which is a fabulous car......I think it looks fabulous....It's like sitting in a Rolls Royce......For me, this is the star of the show.....it looks so good" - J. Clarkson, motoring journalist on the launch of the Rover 75 in 1998.

21st January 2016, 22:25	#4
Monty Hotspur Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Berkshire Posts: 110 Thanks: 3 Thanked 24 Times in 22 Posts	Could well be the lubricant covering the mechanism is drying out and the increased friction is making the lock a bit lazy to unlatch.

21st January 2016, 22:27	#5
Monty Hotspur Avid contributor Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Berkshire Posts: 110 Thanks: 3 Thanked 24 Times in 22 Posts	Mine's done it for years on the N/S/R door btw. I really should pop the door card off and spray some silicon lube around the mechanism. Maybe in the summer when it's warmer.

21st January 2016, 23:17	#7
Forestgreen Gets stuck in Rover 75 Connoisseur SE 2.5 V6 saloon Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Birmingham Posts: 770 Thanks: 47 Thanked 105 Times in 54 Posts	Had this with my car and Terry Shires replaced the lock mechanism with a used (but fully working) replacement.

22nd January 2016, 02:24	#8
genpk Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon MGZT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA Posts: 1,664 Thanks: 3 Thanked 461 Times in 299 Posts	Only two ways to sort it out and ive done both. No matter what you will need to remove the door card,dust panel and undo a bottom bolt holding your window track in place. One way is to replace the whole lock actuator unit (the front door ones are the same as mini cooper) the other is to pull the unit out,pull it to bits and rebuild it (fidley and time consuming) Basically in the actuator locks,there is the mechanical bits which sometimes get clogged up and stick (the latching parts that click when you shut your doors) These can be sparayed via the latch bit you see on your door. The other part is the electronic parts which all live in a sealed nylon case within the lock and no amount of spraying will ever reach these parts. They comprise of 2 x small electric motors (lock and unlock) about 3 or 4 micro switches which activate the locks when things like your key is used in the lock etc. What usually happens is the one or more of the electronic parts (usually one of the small electric motors) fails by the brushes getting clogged up or worn and stops working,thus you can have unlock working but no locking happening.Or on my car,everything was working except i could not get key when in the lock to unlock,it would lock fine. Quite probably the small mirco switch not working for the unlock There is quite a good article on "indestructables" rebuilding a mini cooper door lock which is exactly the same. They go down to even pulling the small electric motor to bits,cleaning the brushes.I just get an old lock and swap the motors out. I repaired a few of the locks but as the drivers door acts a a mater lock for the rest of the car , I will probably get a new drivers lock actuator from Rimmers as having only one keyed entry to the car I want it reliable. The other locks are worth having a go at if you have time and patience and take lots of pictures as its a bit like a clock