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Old 13th July 2020, 11:01   #11
BigRuss
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Originally Posted by goltho View Post
One thing I'd not considered but which I am now, is that the (still anecdotal) fuel pump horror stories are likely more to do with commercial interests than technical ones.

Dougie.
The high pressure pump stories are certainly not anecdotal, they are very real.

All the pumps that have leaked have been the later facelift cars with a Synergy fitted, I've never seen an earlier car with the same leak so it could be a manufacturing change that causes it.

On some if you're really lucky once the Synergy is removed the leak has stopped, but the majority carry on leaking.

There's no commercial interests here I don't sell parts and have very little desire to change over high pressure pumps for people either,

Russ
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Old 13th July 2020, 11:34   #12
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The high pressure pump stories are certainly not anecdotal, they are very real.
That's what I'm looking for, Russ. Can you let me have some actual examples please?

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Old 13th July 2020, 21:01   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRuss View Post
The high pressure pump stories are certainly not anecdotal, they are very real.

All the pumps that have leaked have been the later facelift cars with a Synergy fitted, I've never seen an earlier car with the same leak so it could be a manufacturing change that causes it.

On some if you're really lucky once the Synergy is removed the leak has stopped, but the majority carry on leaking.

There's no commercial interests here I don't sell parts and have very little desire to change over high pressure pumps for people either,

Russ
Russ are the ones that leak the ones with the modified pressure regulator do you know?

I'm considering a synergy box as no-one does a T4 within 175 miles of me.

But I also have an early facelift with a noisy, droning by-the-looks-of-it regulator.

Do they leak from the regulator seals/housing or the piston seals?

Can they be removed without mucking about with the timing chain or is at a bigger job than that do you know please?
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Old 13th July 2020, 21:32   #14
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You don't have to muck about with the timing chains (there are two), but you do need to lock the intermediate drive sprocket before removing the pump because the sprocket locates on the pump drive shaft.
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Old 13th July 2020, 22:25   #15
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You don't have to muck about with the timing chains (there are two), but you do need to lock the intermediate drive sprocket before removing the pump because the sprocket locates on the pump drive shaft.
Thanks so is that a cover off job or a locking pin somewhere then remove pump body?
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Old 13th July 2020, 22:48   #16
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It is a specific tool with an outer thread that screws into the timing chain cover after removing the blanking plug, an inner thread that screws into the sprocket, and a bolt that breaks the taper between the pump shaft and the sprocket, allowing the pump to be removed.


Make sure you follow the correct procedure, as it is possible to damage the timing chain cover if you don't.
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Old 13th July 2020, 23:30   #17
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Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
It is a specific tool with an outer thread that screws into the timing chain cover after removing the blanking plug, an inner thread that screws into the sprocket, and a bolt that breaks the taper between the pump shaft and the sprocket, allowing the pump to be removed.


Make sure you follow the correct procedure, as it is possible to damage the timing chain cover if you don't.
Thanks Mike, doesn't sound too bad to do assuming the tool is still readily available and there isn't too much to take off around the blanking plug.
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Old 13th July 2020, 23:36   #18
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
It is a specific tool with an outer thread that screws into the timing chain cover after removing the blanking plug, an inner thread that screws into the sprocket, and a bolt that breaks the taper between the pump shaft and the sprocket, allowing the pump to be removed.


Make sure you follow the correct procedure, as it is possible to damage the timing chain cover if you don't.
Hi Mike.
I think a few members will have to go down this route if they start to fit the Synergy along side the T4 160 upgrade in fact even if they have not had the upgrade.

Also lets not forget you have to remove the starter motor to gain access to remove the HPFP, i also find it better to remove the manifold give you more room to work.

Tool required to remove the HPFP
1

Fuel injector nut which can be used to remove the blanking plug.
2

3

4

Tool that breaks the taper.
5

HPFP removed.
6

In this photo you can see the timing chain cog with the tool in the centre.
7

had to hold myself back a little there i was going into full how to mode
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Old 14th July 2020, 06:58   #19
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Great photos as ever Steve.

Interestingly my car is on the original HP pump and has never been apart, so to steer the thread back on course, if you don't fit a Synergy the seals can be good for at least 405k miles, and hopefully many more.
















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Last edited by Mike Noc; 14th July 2020 at 07:02..
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Old 14th July 2020, 08:11   #20
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Which are the seals that leak please?

The piston chamber cover seals, regulator end or shaft seal end?
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