Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 16th February 2020, 19:03   #1
LightBlue
Newbie
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: N E Hampshire
Posts: 16
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default Broken bonnet release cable

The nearside catch will not release as the cable has broken. This was discovered when investigating why the screen washer is not working. I have searched the forum so I know I need some kind person to PM me with advice on how to get the bonnet open. Note the problem was not the main cable slipping out of the link. A new set of cables is on order.
Thanks.
LightBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16th February 2020, 19:21   #2
trikey
Premium Trader
 
trikey's Avatar
 
Rover 75

Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Devon
Posts: 33,711
Thanks: 8,837
Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LightBlue View Post
The nearside catch will not release as the cable has broken. This was discovered when investigating why the screen washer is not working. I have searched the forum so I know I need some kind person to PM me with advice on how to get the bonnet open. Note the problem was not the main cable slipping out of the link. A new set of cables is on order.
Thanks.
You will have to remove the grille and then cut the bonnet pin with a hacksaw, there isn't another way if the cable has broken I'm afraid.
__________________
Lest we forget..
trikey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2020, 12:41   #3
Sussex75
Newbie
 
Rover 75 Saloon 1.8T connoisseur SE

Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sussex
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

It must be the time of year, same problem for me after spending a couple of hours with my hand up the inspection panel trying to get to the cable box. nearside cable broken

Is cutting bonnet pin with hacksaw the only option and is that the advice people are PM'ed with ?

If so a few questions,
a) how do you get the grill off
b) whats parts do you need to replace
c) is it easy to install new cable once the bonnet is only ?
Sussex75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2020, 13:09   #4
Arctic
Give to Learn
 
Arctic's Avatar
 
Freelander 2

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,651
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sussex75 View Post
It must be the time of year, same problem for me after spending a couple of hours with my hand up the inspection panel trying to get to the cable box. nearside cable broken

Is cutting bonnet pin with hacksaw the only option and is that the advice people are PM'ed with ?

If so a few questions,
Quote:
a) how do you get the grill off
You can remove the grill if you can just about wedge the bonnet open, by removing the two scivets with a flat blade not easy.

Quote:
b) whats parts do you need to replace
The cable 99.9% of the time.

Quote:
c) is it easy to install new cable once the bonnet is only ?
Not that easy as you have to remove the front bumper, the slam panel along with the lights, then replace the cables once the slam panel is off the car.

Check post 8 below.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...11#post2793211
__________________
Arctic
Givology Learn to Give
Everything is Achievable

ad altiora tendo.

Check out our Nano meet dates
http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

" You do the work , we supply the expertise "
Arctic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17th February 2020, 19:21   #5
Sussex75
Newbie
 
Rover 75 Saloon 1.8T connoisseur SE

Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sussex
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Thanks, looks like a fun weekend ahead !
Sussex75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2020, 19:03   #6
CMOORESY
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT Auto and 75 Tourer

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Nantwich
Posts: 182
Thanks: 8
Thanked 52 Times in 20 Posts
Default

DO NOT CUT ANYTHING, YOU DO NOT NEED A HACKSAW OR TO PULL YOUR GRILL OFF TO DO THIS PROPERLY!!!

There is some well meaning but poor advice written about this simple task.

This task can be carried out in about 20 mins without any damage to your car whatsoever.

So, assuming that its not the junction box that's the problem and its at the latch or a broken/rusted cable at fault -

Firstly, I have only experienced a rusted through bonnet cable on two facelift cars however, I cant see it being much different on a pre-facelifts?

OK -

Get a crappy old 10mm spanner and bend the head (see image).

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...pstl2tbap8.jpg

Release the bonnet latch to fee up the side of the bonnet that still works (so the good unbroken latch is released)

Put some tape around the bonnet and the bumper in the area of the broken bonnet latch and bayonet so as not to mark the paint should you slip with the spanner or something, highly unlikely, but just in case.

Wrap a short piece of wood or something similar in a soft rag to make a wedge. This is inserted between the bumper and the leading edge of the bonnet on the released side with the intention of -
1. making the bonnet to bumper gap bigger
2. putting an upward force on the bonnet

Now get your bent 10mm spanner and a torch. locate the bayonet on the broken side, put the spanner though the gap and carefully undo the two 10mm bolts on the underside of the bonnet. Its a bit fiddly, but you can do it.

Alternate from one bolt to the other, this way, each turn will give you more room to work, as the bonnet is forced up by the wedge that you have put in place on the opposite side. Slide the wedge along to keep the upward force on the bonnet as you undo the bolts.

Once the two bolts are unscrewed the bonnet will pop open with the bayonet still in the catch on the slam panel.

This can be released by inserting a small screwdriver in the latch between the plunger and the catch to push the catch back thus releasing the plunger.

now you can fix the cable etc.

The thing that slows this down is the limited access due to the lip on the bayonet fixing plate, as a precaution, you can remove and flatten the leading edges of each bayonet bracket once the bonnet is open, then if it happens again, you can do the job in about 5 mins and not 20 mins, and you wont need the bent spanner (see image of flattened leading bayonet plates on my car)

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5asreen.jpg

Simple, nothing broken or damaged and everything reusable.
I posted this how to on here years ago, so cant understand why there is still poor advice circulating.

Good Luck, Chris

Last edited by CMOORESY; 18th February 2020 at 19:22..
CMOORESY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2020, 19:16   #7
CMOORESY
Avid contributor
 
MG ZT Auto and 75 Tourer

Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Nantwich
Posts: 182
Thanks: 8
Thanked 52 Times in 20 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
You will have to remove the grille and then cut the bonnet pin with a hacksaw, there isn't another way if the cable has broken I'm afraid.
Oh there is, a much easier way.
CMOORESY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18th February 2020, 22:28   #8
Arctic
Give to Learn
 
Arctic's Avatar
 
Freelander 2

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,651
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMOORESY View Post
DO NOT CUT ANYTHING, YOU DO NOT NEED A HACKSAW OR TO PULL YOUR GRILL OFF TO DO THIS PROPERLY!!!

There is some well meaning but poor advice written about this simple task.

This task can be carried out in about 20 mins without any damage to your car whatsoever.

So, assuming that its not the junction box that's the problem and its at the latch or a broken/rusted cable at fault -

Firstly, I have only experienced a rusted through bonnet cable on two facelift cars however, I cant see it being much different on a pre-facelifts?

OK -

Get a crappy old 10mm spanner and bend the head (see image).

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...pstl2tbap8.jpg

Release the bonnet latch to fee up the side of the bonnet that still works (so the good unbroken latch is released)

Put some tape around the bonnet and the bumper in the area of the broken bonnet latch and bayonet so as not to mark the paint should you slip with the spanner or something, highly unlikely, but just in case.

Wrap a short piece of wood or something similar in a soft rag to make a wedge. This is inserted between the bumper and the leading edge of the bonnet on the released side with the intention of -
1. making the bonnet to bumper gap bigger
2. putting an upward force on the bonnet

Now get your bent 10mm spanner and a torch. locate the bayonet on the broken side, put the spanner though the gap and carefully undo the two 10mm bolts on the underside of the bonnet. Its a bit fiddly, but you can do it.

Alternate from one bolt to the other, this way, each turn will give you more room to work, as the bonnet is forced up by the wedge that you have put in place on the opposite side. Slide the wedge along to keep the upward force on the bonnet as you undo the bolts.

Once the two bolts are unscrewed the bonnet will pop open with the bayonet still in the catch on the slam panel.

This can be released by inserting a small screwdriver in the latch between the plunger and the catch to push the catch back thus releasing the plunger.

now you can fix the cable etc.

The thing that slows this down is the limited access due to the lip on the bayonet fixing plate, as a precaution, you can remove and flatten the leading edges of each bayonet bracket once the bonnet is open, then if it happens again, you can do the job in about 5 mins and not 20 mins, and you wont need the bent spanner (see image of flattened leading bayonet plates on my car)

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5asreen.jpg

Quote:
Simple, nothing broken or damaged and everything reusable.
I posted this how to on here years ago, so cant understand why there is still poor advice circulating.

Good Luck, Chris
Hi Chris.
The above solution is excellent, we did try it at the Nano as I have a angled ratchet ring spanner, it would just not stay on the bolt as you say due to the lip on the plate, therefore because someone had a spare bayonet the decision was made to go down the route of cutting the bayonet.

You can guess what I will be making up tomorrow thanks for sharing your idea
__________________
Arctic
Givology Learn to Give
Everything is Achievable

ad altiora tendo.

Check out our Nano meet dates
http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

" You do the work , we supply the expertise "
Arctic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2020, 18:44   #9
LightBlue
Newbie
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: N E Hampshire
Posts: 16
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMOORESY View Post
DO NOT CUT ANYTHING, YOU DO NOT NEED A HACKSAW OR TO PULL YOUR GRILL OFF TO DO THIS PROPERLY!!!

There is some well meaning but poor advice written about this simple task.

This task can be carried out in about 20 mins without any damage to your car whatsoever.

So, assuming that its not the junction box that's the problem and its at the latch or a broken/rusted cable at fault -

Firstly, I have only experienced a rusted through bonnet cable on two facelift cars however, I cant see it being much different on a pre-facelifts?

OK -

Get a crappy old 10mm spanner and bend the head (see image).

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...pstl2tbap8.jpg

Release the bonnet latch to fee up the side of the bonnet that still works (so the good unbroken latch is released)

Put some tape around the bonnet and the bumper in the area of the broken bonnet latch and bayonet so as not to mark the paint should you slip with the spanner or something, highly unlikely, but just in case.

Wrap a short piece of wood or something similar in a soft rag to make a wedge. This is inserted between the bumper and the leading edge of the bonnet on the released side with the intention of -
1. making the bonnet to bumper gap bigger
2. putting an upward force on the bonnet

Now get your bent 10mm spanner and a torch. locate the bayonet on the broken side, put the spanner though the gap and carefully undo the two 10mm bolts on the underside of the bonnet. Its a bit fiddly, but you can do it.

Alternate from one bolt to the other, this way, each turn will give you more room to work, as the bonnet is forced up by the wedge that you have put in place on the opposite side. Slide the wedge along to keep the upward force on the bonnet as you undo the bolts.

Once the two bolts are unscrewed the bonnet will pop open with the bayonet still in the catch on the slam panel.

This can be released by inserting a small screwdriver in the latch between the plunger and the catch to push the catch back thus releasing the plunger.

now you can fix the cable etc.

The thing that slows this down is the limited access due to the lip on the bayonet fixing plate, as a precaution, you can remove and flatten the leading edges of each bayonet bracket once the bonnet is open, then if it happens again, you can do the job in about 5 mins and not 20 mins, and you wont need the bent spanner (see image of flattened leading bayonet plates on my car)

https://i156.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5asreen.jpg

Simple, nothing broken or damaged and everything reusable.
I posted this how to on here years ago, so cant understand why there is still poor advice circulating.

Good Luck, Chris

Thanks, that was the sort of solution I was hoping to find.



I am afraid that I am now at an age where I prefer to get a mechanic to do the hard work. He made his own search for advice and had told me about the hacksaw method so I ordered the replacement beyonet from Rimmer Bros.


I ordered the cables from Ebay as there was an offer for the full set for a good price. I think I got the last one. My mechanic suggested I should replace the cable on the other side and the third cable was effectively free so its seemed worth going for the full set. The part from Rimmers arrived yesterday but I am still waiting for the cables so perhaps it would be better to get them from Rimmers.


I may ask the mechanic if he minds me helping/observing. As he is also sorting out the windscreen washer he will need to remove the wheel arch liner. It will be interesting to see if that helps in getting access to the catch. Shame that the broken cable is on the other side...


I am glad that this solution is now available to all without the need for a PM. I do not see this as a security issue as it is only possible if you can open the bonnet on one side to fix the problem on the other.


Thanks again CMOORSEY.
LightBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 4th March 2020, 18:10   #10
LightBlue
Newbie
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: N E Hampshire
Posts: 16
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Default

My mechanic let me watch him get the bonnet open. He succeeded in getting the bonnet open using a spanner, in fact an assortment of spanners . I provided one I said he was welcome to bend as required. After a few attemps to get it right the spanner broke, but eventually he succeeded in removing the bolts.
If you have a combination spanner the ring end is angled about right to clear lip on the striker plate, but it helps to bend the spanner to fit into the gap. I think my mechanic managed to flatten the angle when attempting to bend the spanner further down the shaft so that it was difficult to get it on the bolt head. He tried several of his own spanners and between them managed to do the job without bending any of them. It took abaout an hour though.
It turned out tnat the problem with the windscreen washer was the one way valve rather than the motor. He said he drilled it out so that it became a simple T-piece feeding both jets. It works fine now.
LightBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 02:31.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd