Blower hot drivers side, Cold passenger side

[yamahajrb]

Yet another problem I hope you guys can help me out with, Heater is blowing hot on the drivers side but blowing cold air on the passenger side, cold on all setting & positions, its the 2.0lt diesel connie 2001 saloon, any advice would be much appreciated, cheers, John

[chunkytrucker]

Well if it's anything like mine that i've just flushed out this afternoon it will be full of gunk. Little lumps of old radweld/k-seal etc that block the heater matrix on the passenger side. I disconnected both heater hoses from the engine and gave them a good blast with a pressure washer. I caught what came out in a sieve,loads of orangey bits. I've poured a kettle de-scaler into the heater matrix,I'll leave it overnight and flush again tomorrow. Fingers crossed that should cure the cold passenger side problem

[yamahajrb]

Thanks, I assume I have to take the matrix out, looked in manual & 'how to do it' on this site & it dont look too difficult, any tips would be good though, cheers, John

[chunkytrucker]

I didn't take mine out, mine is a 1.8 though. Not sure how similar different engine heater pipes are. Just a good blast with matrix still in place.

[Scribbler.]

Well worth removing the matrix, flush through and use a good descaler overnight. Mine was done 18 moths back and it's fine now. Not a difficult job, just patience required; Good luck. Mike.

[yamahajrb]

Thanks Mike, I'll let you all know how it go's, cheers, John

[yamahajrb]

HELP, not a good day, got the matrix out, loads of brown rubbish in it, (coolant was very dirty also), put the power washer through matrix both ways until only clean water came out, filled with near boiling water & the whole surface was red hot unlike when I took it out, replaced matrix & tried for hours to get those flange clips back on, decided eventualy to cut flanges off & insert two pieces of hose, took a long time but eventualy success, filled rad with clean water & bled the system as described, topped up several times but temperature would not rise above 7-o-clock, took car for 5 mile run & temp came to 9-o-clock as norm, dropped off a few times but then stabalized, heater my side ok, passenger side good at first now seems to be getting cooler, I think it may be blocking up again, I couldn't find the engine block drain plug so I think the **** in the coolant is blocking the matrix again.
The one thing I am worried about is after a 5 mile run with the heater working ok & the temp. at 9-0-clock constantly the bottom hose remains stone cold, I dont want to put new antifreeze in until sorted.
I really need your help guys, cheers, John

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by yamahajrb

... after a 5 mile run with the heater working ok & the temp. at 9-0-clock constantly the bottom hose remains stone cold ...

John,

The gauge will hit nine o' clock when the coolant temperature reaches 75 degrees, but there won't be flow through the radiator (with bottom hose warming up) until the thermostat opens, which is at 88 degrees! Activate the instrument pack diagnostics to monitor the actual coolant temperature. That will give to an idea of what's going on.

Simon

[yamahajrb]

Originally Posted by SD1too

John,

The gauge will hit nine o' clock when the coolant temperature reaches 75 degrees, but there won't be flow through the radiator (with bottom hose warming up) until the thermostat opens, which is at 88 degrees! Activate the instrument pack diagnostics to monitor the actual coolant temperature. That will give to an idea of what's going on.

Simon

Thanks Simon, I'll do what you suggest, I assume the water must be circulating for the heater to work & for the car not to overheat, I hope its not the thermostat as it looks too much of a job for me to replace, can the water be ciculating with the thermostat closed?, thanks again Si, John

[COLVERT]

With temperatures at this time of year you'll be lucky if the thermostat opens at all. In town with the heater on the diesel hardly ever reaches its correct working temperature. Mine struggles to get hot and there's nothing wrong with my thermostat.

The water does, of course, circulate with the stat closed.



PS. When you cleaned the heater rad you should have cleaned the whole system cos that's where the gunge came from in the first place. ( Sorry. )


Colvert.