Tazu clutch master cylinder

zony · 6th August 2014, 19:09

I fitted a new Tazu clutch master cylinder today dodging the rain showers.

Total fitting and bleeding time 3 hours.

Getting old cylinder out is fairly easy, in one piece. Separated in line valve with two chisel edges.

Hard part is getting the pipe bent in the right shape, very tight at the back of the cylinder. Be prepared for scratched arms and a lot of swearing. When filling and re-filling reservoir during bleeding its best to use a small bottle like a kids bubble pot or a Yakult jobbie.

Best thing is the reservoir is opaque enough to see the fluid level. I have used the seal from the old cylinder and cut the teat off it so that it allows more fluid in the reservoir. I can now keep an eye on it checking the level regularly, as I am not sure if its the slave at fault. I bled the system about 6 weeks ago and lost clutch pedal about 4 weeks later. The fluid in the old cylinder reservoir was grey. Not sure where that's from as it was new fluid.

Also plastic ring on the in line valve has a split in it. Is this normal

Fingers crossed its not the slave. That was a new Luk one 2 years ago.

andre372 · 6th August 2014, 19:19

The rubber seal isn't actually there to seal the cap but to seal the fluid from the outer environment.
A small hint: you may get a squeaking pedal after a while, some silicone spray between the piston arm and its rubber grommet helps against this.
Hope the slave is okay!

Ched · 6th August 2014, 22:13

I got the new master from Andy willi on here and what a gem it is.
It took me about an hour to swap it around, no fiddling with having to bend / remove pipework and no bleeding either, the hardest and longest part was putting the allen bolts in.
Well chuffed with it.

HarryM1BYT · 7th August 2014, 04:44

+1..

..and for the benefit of Andy - it is still performing as I originally described it, puuurfect.

It is always a good idea when replacing one part of the clutch hydraulics, to give the entire system a good flush through with fresh fluid to get all of the debris out, rather than risk the new part suffering premature wear.

marts66 · 7th August 2014, 12:24

This is something that I think I'm going to have to do. I have had a new DMF, slave and clutch fitted but if I sit at trafic lights with my foot on the clutch it doesn't return all the way to the top, same happens if I 'ride' the clutch when manouvering but then comes back and is fine if I lift it with my foot. If I take my foot of the clutch completely at lights, gear changes or manouvering it doesn't happen. The clutch has been 'back bled', i.e. through the bleed nipple and has so far covered 200+ miles (touches wood and prays)

Mike Noc · 7th August 2014, 12:49

Mate the one thing you don't do with these cars is sit with the engine running and your foot on the clutch.

marts66 · 7th August 2014, 12:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Mate the one thing you don't do with these cars is sit with the engine running and your foot on the clutch.

Are they all the same then, I thought it was just coz I needed a master

HarryM1BYT · 7th August 2014, 15:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by marts66

Are they all the same then, I thought it was just coz I needed a master

With either old or new master, I could if I wanted sit with my foot on the clutch. There is no inherent fault which would prevent it, but it is really not a good thing to do in any car.

It does sound as if one cylinder or the other is failing. Likely if no fluid is being lost, it will be the master piston allowing fluid past it due to wear.

gritbox · 29th February 2016, 11:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Mate the one thing you don't do with these cars is sit with the engine running and your foot on the clutch.

really?

how come?

T16 · 29th February 2016, 14:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by gritbox

really?

how come?

Because you are applying pressure to the clutch plate, and you are wearing out the release bearing at the same time.

Never, ever do this!

6th August 2014, 19:09	#1
zony Regular poster MG ZT-T Join Date: May 2011 Location: Gellilydan Posts: 48 Thanks: 22 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts	Tazu clutch master cylinder I fitted a new Tazu clutch master cylinder today dodging the rain showers. Total fitting and bleeding time 3 hours. Getting old cylinder out is fairly easy, in one piece. Separated in line valve with two chisel edges. Hard part is getting the pipe bent in the right shape, very tight at the back of the cylinder. Be prepared for scratched arms and a lot of swearing. When filling and re-filling reservoir during bleeding its best to use a small bottle like a kids bubble pot or a Yakult jobbie. Best thing is the reservoir is opaque enough to see the fluid level. I have used the seal from the old cylinder and cut the teat off it so that it allows more fluid in the reservoir. I can now keep an eye on it checking the level regularly, as I am not sure if its the slave at fault. I bled the system about 6 weeks ago and lost clutch pedal about 4 weeks later. The fluid in the old cylinder reservoir was grey. Not sure where that's from as it was new fluid. Also plastic ring on the in line valve has a split in it. Is this normal Fingers crossed its not the slave. That was a new Luk one 2 years ago.

6th August 2014, 19:19	#2
andre372 Gets stuck in 2001 Rover 75 Tourer 2.0 CDT manual Royal Blue (JFM) Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Viljandi, Estonia Posts: 855 Thanks: 233 Thanked 98 Times in 87 Posts	The rubber seal isn't actually there to seal the cap but to seal the fluid from the outer environment. A small hint: you may get a squeaking pedal after a while, some silicone spray between the piston arm and its rubber grommet helps against this. Hope the slave is okay! __________________ MODS: Front fog lamps, FBH timer switch, FBH OBD, boot and arm rest power sockets, cruise control, Powerflex lower arm bushes, illuminated vanity mirrors, high-line IPK, Symphony stereo + SLE, 160 remap, Revotec fan, 12N+12S, auto-dimming rear view mirror, rain sensor, volumetric alarm sensor, PDC, powerfolds, sports leather memory seats, passenger anti-trap sensor TO DO: Tilt sensor, low coolant sensor, FBH GSM remote control, heated washer jets, front parking sensors

7th August 2014, 04:44	#4
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	+1.. ..and for the benefit of Andy - it is still performing as I originally described it, puuurfect. It is always a good idea when replacing one part of the clutch hydraulics, to give the entire system a good flush through with fresh fluid to get all of the debris out, rather than risk the new part suffering premature wear. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

6th August 2014, 22:13	#3
Ched I really should get out more....... MG ZT V8, MGZT 135 derv ,MG TF 135 Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Romsey Posts: 2,299 Thanks: 553 Thanked 573 Times in 385 Posts	I got the new master from Andy willi on here and what a gem it is. It took me about an hour to swap it around, no fiddling with having to bend / remove pipework and no bleeding either, the hardest and longest part was putting the allen bolts in. Well chuffed with it.

7th August 2014, 12:24	#5
marts66 Regular poster MG ZT 190 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Preston Posts: 61 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts	This is something that I think I'm going to have to do. I have had a new DMF, slave and clutch fitted but if I sit at trafic lights with my foot on the clutch it doesn't return all the way to the top, same happens if I 'ride' the clutch when manouvering but then comes back and is fine if I lift it with my foot. If I take my foot of the clutch completely at lights, gear changes or manouvering it doesn't happen. The clutch has been 'back bled', i.e. through the bleed nipple and has so far covered 200+ miles (touches wood and prays)

7th August 2014, 12:49	#6
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,571 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Mate the one thing you don't do with these cars is sit with the engine running and your foot on the clutch.