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Old 28th May 2017, 18:18   #1
Phill_190
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Default Temperature guage

Hey,
Ive noticed my zt 2.5 v6 the temp dial seems to stay around the quarter way up mark for ages sometimes not even going halfway for my 8 mile drive to work, will also drop when going faster. I done obd dash temp thing and was at 76 or less driving at 70mph! What could be the problem?
Cheers
Phill
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Old 28th May 2017, 18:54   #2
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The thermostat needs replacing.
The running temperature should be in the 88-90C area.
'Normal' (9 o'clock) on the gauge as a range of 75-115C, so not a lot of use for coolant monitoring.

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Old 28th May 2017, 19:15   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
The thermostat needs replacing.
The running temperature should be in the 88-90C area.
'Normal' (9 o'clock) on the gauge as a range of 75-115C, so not a lot of use for coolant monitoring.

TC
Cheers mate! Will it do harm driving in the mean time? Is it expensive do you know inc labour
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Old 29th May 2017, 20:40   #4
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Cheers mate! Will it do harm driving in the mean time? Is it expensive do you know inc labour
Was £70 on my 1.8 fitted.
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Old 29th May 2017, 21:31   #5
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I believe its a much bigger job on tge v6 engines
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Old 29th May 2017, 22:05   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phill_190 View Post
Will it do harm driving in the mean time?
Increased fuel consumption and engine wear Phil.
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I believe its a much bigger job on the v6 engines


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Old 30th May 2017, 06:47   #7
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Could it be anything else other than the thermostat that needs looking into before I get it replaced?
Cheers!
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Old 30th May 2017, 07:43   #8
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There can be few tasks more rewarding than replacing the thermostat, or part thereof, on the mighty KV6. If it's just playing up and not leaking then there's no immediate danger other than the increased fuel consumption and potential for wear already mentioned, although you'd have to do a hell of a lot of miles to notice. If on the other hand your O-rings, thermostat housing or connecting pipes have gone then you should be able to see by looking in the V under the acoustic cover, and it's as well to get it done now while the weather's nice.

Opinion is divided as to the desirability of using the "keyhole" method. Some swear by it as a substantial time-saver. Others, such as myself, swear at it and prefer the additional working space afforded by removing the LH inlet manifold (and the associated expense of the additional gasket).

It's not a huge job with a half decent tool kit and can be completed easily within a working day allowing for cups of tea, a fag or two, trips to the loo and a bit of time out with your back against the front bumper enjoying the sun and watching the bees bumbling to and fro.

Do make sure you have a magnetic screwdriver when it comes to replacing the two lower torx screws on the throttle assembly. Do prepare yourself for the bittersweet experience of one of the brittle vacuum hoses snapping at the most inaccessible end just as you thought you'd finished the job. Do remember that there is only one way to correctly re-fill the coolant (unless you want air locks for the next few hundred miles). And DO remember to label everything as you take it apart.

And while you've got it apart you can clean out the throttle body, check your upper manifold chamber O-rings, have a look at your Shannon tube and replace as necessary etc etc.
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Old 30th May 2017, 08:09   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord of Hog View Post
There can be few tasks more rewarding than replacing the thermostat, or part thereof, on the mighty KV6. If it's just playing up and not leaking then there's no immediate danger other than the increased fuel consumption and potential for wear already mentioned, although you'd have to do a hell of a lot of miles to notice. If on the other hand your O-rings, thermostat housing or connecting pipes have gone then you should be able to see by looking in the V under the acoustic cover, and it's as well to get it done now while the weather's nice.

Opinion is divided as to the desirability of using the "keyhole" method. Some swear by it as a substantial time-saver. Others, such as myself, swear at it and prefer the additional working space afforded by removing the LH inlet manifold (and the associated expense of the additional gasket).

It's not a huge job with a half decent tool kit and can be completed easily within a working day allowing for cups of tea, a fag or two, trips to the loo and a bit of time out with your back against the front bumper enjoying the sun and watching the bees bumbling to and fro.

Do make sure you have a magnetic screwdriver when it comes to replacing the two lower torx screws on the throttle assembly. Do prepare yourself for the bittersweet experience of one of the brittle vacuum hoses snapping at the most inaccessible end just as you thought you'd finished the job. Do remember that there is only one way to correctly re-fill the coolant (unless you want air locks for the next few hundred miles). And DO remember to label everything as you take it apart.

And while you've got it apart you can clean out the throttle body, check your upper manifold chamber O-rings, have a look at your Shannon tube and replace as necessary etc etc.

100% agree with this! thats the best way to do things! you can do all the additional cleaning points etc.
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Old 30th May 2017, 08:29   #10
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Thanks for the reply but I deff wouldnt be attempting tbis myself due to lack of tool, no confidence in car mechanics and lack of space unfortunately! Itz just so much easier for me to pay a mechanic. I know this is lazy but I usually cause further problems when I attempt to fix things!
The car isnt loosing a drop of coolant so I assume its just sticking if this is the problem. Would rather be sure before I get it done that nothing else can cause this issue. The car does sometimes get upto temp so maybe its occasionally sticking.
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