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Old 7th August 2007, 15:19   #11
Keith
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EMS or EWS?

At a guess you have a disparity between the immobiliser and engine management ECU have either been changed?
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Old 7th August 2007, 16:25   #12
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Default Nothing changed other than cam sensor

Nothing changed other than cam sensor
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Old 7th August 2007, 16:42   #13
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Hello,
Have you checked the common rail fuel pressure sensor? (situated on right hand end of rail) There have been several instances of this sensor ceasing to give a voltage output to ECU ,hence ECU does not tell high pressure pump to increase pressure in rail to 'starting pressure'. Hope this might be of some use to you

Regards , Robert
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Old 7th August 2007, 17:33   #14
Mike
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I really would focus on that error code you have got. Keith is right, if you have an anti theft system problem then until it is resolved your car will never start whatever else you do.

The anti theft on the 75 is highly effective and sorting that should be the first step on the road to starting.

Good luck

Mike

ps RSR? Are you a Register member?
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Old 7th August 2007, 19:49   #15
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Default How to ?

Would love to test these things ie/ fuel pressure switch, cam / cank sensor, but how do you test them?

Also is it possible to trick the high pressure fuel pump to deliver max pressure in order to test the low pressure fuel switchs ( I think there are 2, one on the rail & one on the filter housing )

Regards; Geoff G
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Old 7th August 2007, 20:37   #16
simpsora
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsr75 View Post
Would love to test these things ie/ fuel pressure switch, cam / cank sensor, but how do you test them?

Also is it possible to trick the high pressure fuel pump to deliver max pressure in order to test the low pressure fuel switchs ( I think there are 2, one on the rail & one on the filter housing )

Regards; Geoff G
Hello,
the low pressure volage sensor(one on fuel filter head ) should read close to 4 volts 'steady'
The high pressure sensor (on end of common rail)is variable but should read in the region of 0.5v.1.3v and 2.1 respectfully at :-,IGNITION,TICKOVER,and3000REVS.
Probably best to cure any error codes first, but the above voltage readings are good'indicators' ,are 'quick' and cost nothing! worth a try?
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Old 7th August 2007, 21:01   #17
Keith
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problem with any non starter is providing pointers and you have given good info there Robert

RSR you can do the basics but without getting the car on Testbook first you might be making things hard for yourself and we could end up providing too much info here

Where in the country is the car?
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Old 7th August 2007, 21:08   #18
Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsr75 View Post

- the pumps should power on for x seconds
- the glow plugs should power on for y seconds
- voltage should be available @ wires a,b,c going into the ecu, if not check relays 1,2,3
A, around 60 seconds every time the ignition is turned on
B, not sure but in this weather it won't need the glow plugs to start
C, no chance far too many wires and variables sorry but we simply don't have that level of info
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Old 8th August 2007, 06:50   #19
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Default LAst check of the easy things before Rover

Hi,

Just wanted to check out the easy & obviouse before getting it transported to the Rover dealer ( about 20 miles to Wexford ) Its not the distance rather the costs that a lot of other people have incurred without resolution. We also have access to a 2003 Diesel Freelander today so will be good to compare / swap bits to see if we have any luck.

Will update as we go, many thanx for the replies.

Regards; Geoff G
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Old 8th August 2007, 13:03   #20
Keith
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Ah if you have a TD4 freelander then you may be able to try camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, fuel rail sensor and low fuel pressure sensor

If they are the same just swap the lot it may also be worth disconnecting the maf as that is not needed for the engine to run

I still think though if your pumps are not always running consistently with the ignition on that the problem is ECU'ish

you did find and check the inertia cutout? passenger footwell alongside the glovebox
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