How to remove front side windows

[macafee2]

I went to the scrap yard today and removed both front side windows but I don't think I used the correct method but could not find a how to.

What is the correct method, both windows were up.

I removed door card and foam sheet behind. Also removed door mirror.
Removed the rubber inside on the door at base of window, the trim outside at the base of the window and the big rubber outside that goes around the sides and top. I would like to know how this should be removed from the edge under the black trim, this is on the bit of the door closest to the back of the car.

There were two "silver" bolts one on the left and one on the right on the inside of the door, these I removed. Also 4 or 5 "brass" bolts inside the door, 2 were under the passenger speaker, cant recall the other locations.


I am sure I removed too much and damaged too much and so am put off fitting the "new" windows.
Read the Haynes manual but still not sure


macafee2

macafee2

[Number 6]

Originally Posted by macafee2

I went to the scrap yard today and removed both front side windows but I don't think I used the correct method but could not find a how to.

What is the correct method, both windows were up.

I removed door card and foam sheet behind. Also removed door mirror.
Removed the rubber inside on the door at base of window, the trim outside at the base of the window and the big rubber outside that goes around the sides and top. I would like to know how this should be removed from the edge under the black trim, this is on the bit of the door closest to the back of the car.

There were two "silver" bolts one on the left and one on the right on the inside of the door, these I removed. Also 4 or 5 "brass" bolts inside the door, 2 were under the passenger speaker, cant recall the other locations.


I am sure I removed too much and damaged too much and so am put off fitting the "new" windows.
Read the Haynes manual but still not sure


macafee2

macafee2

I recently removed/changed my front drivers window,very simple to do.

Remove the door card, Then the foam insulation. Lower the window partway down and loosen the two bolts that hold the clamps that hold the glass in place, lower the window down to the bottom. Now tilt the glass forward and lift it and pull out to the outside of the door and remove. Fitting is a reverse.

There is no need to remove any of the rubber trim or plastic trim.

I hope this makes sense to you.

PS to lower/lift the window you just need to re-connect the door switch to the loom.

HTH.
John

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by Number 6

I recently removed/changed my front drivers window,very simple to do.

Remove the door card, Then the foam insulation. Lower the window partway down and loosen the two bolts that hold the clamps that hold the glass in place, lower the window down to the bottom. Now tilt the glass forward and lift it and pull out to the outside of the door and remove. Fitting is a reverse.

There is no need to remove any of the rubber trim or plastic trim.

I hope this makes sense to you.

PS to lower/lift the window you just need to re-connect the door switch to the loom.

HTH.
John

John,
magic thank you. That will be easy to do at home but at the scrap yard no batteries are allowed to be fitted to cars. I could not lower the window but
now I know the way to do it, thanks again

macafee2

[JohnnyBG]

Cheers, my window scratched quite a bit and read about the problems with the velvet tape stuff but would like to (summer time) fit an unscratched window!


I like mechanics but always seem to break stuff on trim.


JohnnyBG


PS now to look for How to on fixing the central locking servos...........................

[marinabrian]

Remove door card, the foam water shedder need only be peeled back at the top by a couple of inches.

Slacken the two pinch bolts, which are accessed with the glass in the closed position through the round holes, one of which is arrowed in this picture I shamelessly plagiarised from MG John........



......the other one is still hidden by the rather ratty water shedder, however you get the idea.

Anyway once you slacken these off, temporarily refit the switch, and press and hold the switch for half a second while retarding the progress of the glass with your other hand.

Once the glass is free of the regulator, wind the regulator down slightly further, again while holding the switch, rather than pressing momentarily, the reason I will explain later

The window glass can now be manipulated out of the channel, by sliding it down, then rotating it anticlockwise, so the sloped part enters the door shell and the trailing edge tips forward, easier to do than explain.

The waist trim can now be cleaned to remove all grit and gunge from the fuzzy felt, and after washing the green slime from the new glass at the bottom, manoeuvre the new glass back into the guide channels as a reverse of removal.

After checking the glass slides freely up and down the guide, hold the glass in the closed position, either with an assistant, or by using something like this to prevent it sliding down into the door..........



.......the window regulator can now be wound back into position using the switch as described before, and the pinch bolts nipped up again.

Finally check the operation with the switch to make sure the assembly operates smoothly and quietly, then reassemble.

As promised the reason for holding the switch, and not pressing and releasing..........without the glass connected to the regulator, it is possible for the white nylon cable guide to run off the end of the steel channel.

It's more difficult to explain that do, in the time this has taken me to write I could have the job completed

Brian

[macafee2]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Remove door card, the foam water shedder need only be peeled back at the top by a couple of inches.

Slacken the two pinch bolts, which are accessed with the glass in the closed position through the round holes, one of which is arrowed in this picture I shamelessly plagiarised from MG John........



......the other one is still hidden by the rather ratty water shedder, however you get the idea.

Anyway once you slacken these off, temporarily refit the switch, and press and hold the switch for half a second while retarding the progress of the glass with your other hand.

Once the glass is free of the regulator, wind the regulator down slightly further, again while holding the switch, rather than pressing momentarily, the reason I will explain later

The window glass can now be manipulated out of the channel, by sliding it down, then rotating it anticlockwise, so the sloped part enters the door shell and the trailing edge tips forward, easier to do than explain.

The waist trim can now be cleaned to remove all grit and gunge from the fuzzy felt, and after washing the green slime from the new glass at the bottom, manoeuvre the new glass back into the guide channels as a reverse of removal.

After checking the glass slides freely up and down the guide, hold the glass in the closed position, either with an assistant, or by using something like this to prevent it sliding down into the door..........



.......the window regulator can now be wound back into position using the switch as described before, and the pinch bolts nipped up again.

Finally check the operation with the switch to make sure the assembly operates smoothly and quietly, then reassemble.

As promised the reason for holding the switch, and not pressing and releasing..........without the glass connected to the regulator, it is possible for the white nylon cable guide to run off the end of the steel channel.

It's more difficult to explain that do, in the time this has taken me to write I could have the job completed

Brian

You make it sound so easy.

Brian, I will send you a pm

macafee2