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Old 20th February 2020, 03:11   #11
marinabrian
 
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Thanks TC.

I'll go and have a close look at them all later (it's raining again).

Meanwhile, just for info, I think nuts 5 & 9 and 6 & 8 are all 'stiffnuts' (as per Brian's posts 3 & 8) in which case they should probably be replaced. And bolts 3 have red locking compound as opposed to some other MGR bolts which have blue - I've got no idea which colour means 'use once'. Maybe I should just replace the whole lot and be done with it - I don't want to have to keep crawling underneath to check the darned things. There again, it's another £30 or so down the drain.
Stiffnuts don't need to be replaced, it is Nyloc nuts that are once use

Patchlok bolts won't need replacement either, or if you are that paranoid, a dot of Loctite 243 will replace either blue or red patchlok compound.

I rather think you are over worrying Simon, I would limit any further intervention to cleaning the ARB bushes with isopropanol or similar to remove the red rubber grease, and after taking the car for a run around the block to settle the suspension, reverse it up onto a pair of ramps, and torque the bolts up and be done with it.

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Old 20th February 2020, 20:25   #12
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Locktight's good stuff. Just used some on the caliper bolts yesterday when I replaced both back discs.---Been using it for what seems to be for ever. Always seems to do the job well.-

Last edited by COLVERT; 21st February 2020 at 20:43..
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Old 21st February 2020, 12:47   #13
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These bushes aren't doing any work. Just retaining bushes. The bar twisting is the workhorse surely .--

Not at all like front suspension arm bushes or lower tie bar bushes.---
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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
I reckon ARB bushes are pretty loaded up when the car rolls. They don't simply act as locating fasteners - like a U-bolt_ but absorb a considerable sideways/off axis thrust. They also provide a dampening effect when driving on very rough surfaces. A pair of roller bearings for example wouldn't provide the same results. So, a large gap in the bush just seems counterproductive. Obviously the bush must be very tight to the bar, so a small gap of some size is inevitable. The gap in the photo looks a bit too much. It will work, but will fatigue faster than a complete collar. That's my take on it anyway.
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Rimmers are sending another pair of bushes - when they arrive I'll try them for size on the bar and report back.



It seems odd that no ZT owners have mentioned a similar air gap when replacing these bushes.

Btw, the two different paint finishes visible in the pics on page 1 are deliberate. The bits of the bar where the bushes go have just got 2 coats of POR15 straight onto blasted metal. The rest of the bar has 2 coats of POR15 plus multiple coats of chassis black.


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Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
Stiffnuts don't need to be replaced, it is Nyloc nuts that are once use

Patchlok bolts won't need replacement either, or if you are that paranoid, a dot of Loctite 243 will replace either blue or red patchlok compound.

I rather think you are over worrying Simon, I would limit any further intervention to cleaning the ARB bushes with isopropanol or similar to remove the red rubber grease, and after taking the car for a run around the block to settle the suspension, reverse it up onto a pair of ramps, and torque the bolts up and be done with it.

Brian
Ok, thanks Brian - I'll re-use the stiffnuts. Ditto the patckloks - I'll just wind them out a bit, load the suspension and wind 'em back in again. I'm not sure yet when the road test will be 'cos I was hoping to get the front end refurb sorted before I re-tax the car (no point in paying to have no wheels on ).

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Locktight's good stuff. Just used some on the caliper bolts yesterday when I replaced both back discs.---Been using it for what seems to be ever. Always seems to do the job well.-
Yes Loctite is the one I've always used - it's probably the best. I gave Granville Lock Thread a try this time because it was cheaper. I don't think I'll buy it again though - too tricky to get it to flow out of the nozzle properly.
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Old 23rd February 2020, 15:22   #14
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Rimmers are sending another pair of bushes - when they arrive I'll try them for size on the bar and report back.
And here they are.



The one on the left is identical to the pair that came with the uprated roll bar kit (the ones shown in posts 1 & 5).

The one on the right has a different special layer to the other three - it's blue and the ribs are turned 90 degrees. The hole is slightly larger - probably by 1mm.
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Old 23rd February 2020, 16:36   #15
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I think this is a storm in a tea cup.
The rubbers are there to locate the anti roll bar, and do it silently. That is it! If they are lubed or not, makes no difference. The rubber grease you have used is the correct one for rubber, although I would strongly suspect the rubbers are resistant to oil as well, taking into consideration where they live.
The small gap visible, I would not worry about at all.

Why you want to loosen and tighten the bolts is not clear to me at all.
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Old 23rd February 2020, 19:11   #16
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I think this is a storm in a tea cup.
The rubbers are there to locate the anti roll bar, and do it silently. That is it! If they are lubed or not, makes no difference. The rubber grease you have used is the correct one for rubber, although I would strongly suspect the rubbers are resistant to oil as well, taking into consideration where they live.
The small gap visible, I would not worry about at all.

Why you want to loosen and tighten the bolts is not clear to me at all.
I'm agree with you rather than T-Cut on this. Also if the rubber was meant to be lubricated I'm sure there would be some information somewhere about it. Those grooves are all that's needed to let it rotate.
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Old 24th February 2020, 15:19   #17
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I think this is a storm in a tea cup.
Maybe, maybe not.

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If they are lubed or not, makes no difference.
RAVE screengrab:




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Originally Posted by kaiser View Post
The small gap visible, I would not worry about at all.
It's not a small gap - it might look small in the pics but it's not in real life.

The bushes on the non-uprated roll bar close up completely - there is zero gap.

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Why you want to loosen and tighten the bolts is not clear to me at all.
RAVE screengrab:



At the moment they're torqued up with the suspension hanging in mid air. I dropped a clanger.
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Old 24th February 2020, 15:37   #18
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The bushes on the non-uprated roll bar close up completely - there is zero gap.
i.e. the old one I took off.
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Old 24th February 2020, 17:02   #19
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Maybe, maybe not.



RAVE screengrab:






It's not a small gap - it might look small in the pics but it's not in real life.

The bushes on the non-uprated roll bar close up completely - there is zero gap.



RAVE screengrab:



At the moment they're torqued up with the suspension hanging in mid air. I dropped a clanger.
Well, then worry!
See what good it does, and let us know.

And please tell me what difference it makes whether you lubricate the rubbers or not. I really would like to see your reasoning.

Oh, and think the gap problem through too, and tell me how that could be of any importance, at all.
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Old 24th February 2020, 18:20   #20
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Well, then worry!
See what good it does, and let us know.

And please tell me what difference it makes whether you lubricate the rubbers or not. I really would like to see your reasoning.

Oh, and think the gap problem through too, and tell me how that could be of any importance, at all.
I started by saying "Maybe, maybe not" - in other words, who knows whether it makes a difference or not. As for me, I think I'll follow RAVE.

Re the gap: it's ok now, I've fitted two pieces of 23mm hose pipe instead of the bushes. Works a treat.
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