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8th June 2012, 11:49 | #1 |
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Best paints for suspension rust prevention?
Hi- am going to bit of tidying up underneath and was thinking along the lines of:-removing as much loose rust as possible, rust convertor, high zinc primer and hammerite. Did a bit of googling and it seems to be that hammerite is not the paint it used to be. Does anyone have any experience of good paints?. Is there a better way of doing it apart from the powder coating route- Thanks
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8th June 2012, 12:36 | #2 | |
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Best paint
Quote:
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProdu...5&brandCode=Z7 but you can also buy from www.frost.co.uk Stu |
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8th June 2012, 13:16 | #3 |
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Another vote for POR15 here, also believe it or not, normal household gloss works very well where it's going to be subject to stone chips.
Dulux or whatever never hardens properly, it stays pliable and "closes up" after a chip, rather than chips off. All from personal experience. Modern Hammerite is probably one of the worst paints you could use, it chips too easily and people still buy it due to its reputation, it got its reputation before they had to change the formula due to environmental concerns. I'd finish off with a spray can of stone-chip on parts that won't be seen. Powdercoating is good, but unless you get a perfect job, once moisture gets into a crack or chip, the plastic coating hides the rust. I have pictures of my other car that I had to replace some metalwork on a couple of months ago, it was powdercoated from new, never again..
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Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra. Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath. At night the ice-weasels come... http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5331/6...77671f80_n.jpg Last edited by Unclefista; 8th June 2012 at 13:21.. |
8th June 2012, 15:41 | #4 |
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fiat panda Join Date: Sep 2009
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agree with the hammerite stuff the new stuff is pants,i used waxoil and chip stuff on mine
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8th June 2012, 15:47 | #5 |
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waxoyl
Hi all; as a Professor whose life sadly revolves around corrosion I would go for waxoyl (the black one with the pressure sprayer or in a spray gun with a compressor) have a brush handy too to tidy up and be ready to do it again once avery two to three years. I have run minis (proper Rover ones) for years and this keeps the demon rust at bay despite them being made from extremely mild steel! No need to paint under it (infact the waxoyl will interact with new paint sometimes; the bake hardened factory stuff is no problem). If you do not like it all black then the clear one is also OK although for me this does not set quite so well. Be careful not getting it on brakes! Also if it gets on your exhaust you will have some funny fenugreek (curry like) smells! Try and do this somewhere easy to clean! Can be messy (did my tourer on some olde sheets which I could burn!)
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8th June 2012, 16:45 | #6 |
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Waxoyl. Will creep in where paint can't get.
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11th June 2012, 07:06 | #7 |
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Thanks all- used waxoyl in the past and found it to be good but messy. Think I will give the POR 15 a go.
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11th June 2012, 14:17 | #8 |
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Waxoyl for me every time, one coat job, no messing, ok it's a bit messy but it works.
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11th June 2012, 17:46 | #9 |
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waxoil
I like waxoil clear, whilst it does not stick around too well in vulnerable areas you can at least keep an eye on what is going on underneath. I have a P4 Rover and I just blather it once a year. The black stuff can be a swine to remove if you do need to get in there.
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11th June 2012, 17:58 | #10 |
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If you can afford it get bilt Hamber ub. It forms a firm plasticine film, brown in colour, never really sets hard. I recommend getting a 1 litre pail. No I don't work for them, but IMHO it is a superior product to the traditional off the shelf stuff.
Trust me and do yourself a favour. |
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