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Old 24th October 2018, 08:55   #11
EastPete
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I usually put a smear of LM grease on the cable ball joints, and also a bit on the slots in the cable support brackets- this helps the cable slot fully into place so that the spring clips sit properly under the lugs at the top of the brackets - after 'professional' clutch work on my car, I found the cables were not fully pushed home, and the wire clips were well mangled - it helps to straighten them out before re-fitting the selector cables.

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Old 31st October 2018, 21:11   #12
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Re the holes under your airbox, after removing mine for induction kit fitting, noticed it has 2 rubber prongs? which fit into the fixing bracket for the shannon tube connection Would these be the holes in your picture
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Old 31st October 2018, 21:25   #13
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For single handed simple refitting of the subframe, screw a couple of 18" lengths of M12 threaded bar into the centre captive nuts in the chassis.

Place the subframe on a piece of old carpet in front of the car, sit down in front of the subframe and using your legs push it under the car until it's somewhere near in position.

Now enter the threaded bar into the central bushes of the subframe, and fit a nut and washer to each.

The subframe can now be pulled up into position on the car, using a 19mm AF ratchet spanner, the other fixing bolts fitted, then the threaded bar removed, and the correct bolts fitted.

This may seem time consuming, but it's much easier than trying to balance the subframe on a trolley jack and axle stands

I used this method on the last couple of clutch jobs and found it easier on the bones the following day

Brian
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Old 31st October 2018, 21:25   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzublu View Post
Re the holes under your airbox, after removing mine for induction kit fitting, noticed it has 2 rubber prongs? which fit into the fixing bracket for the shannon tube connection Would these be the holes in your picture
Yep, that's the ones Ronnie.
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Old 15th November 2018, 08:30   #15
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I fitted new (Unipart) front discs and pads to my Cowley 75 for the MOT in August and the brakes had very little "feel" for ages. I'm very easy on brakes (my 214SEI was still on the originals at 12 years old) so it took a while for them to bed in. Good "solid" pedal now though! (stops on a sixpence!).
I had the sharp edge on a bracket, rubbing the radiator hose on my previous 1.8 Conny and did a similar thing to you with the wrap around hose. I also bent the offending bracket/clip to 45 degrees down.

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Old 12th December 2018, 19:23   #16
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Default Sub frame removal/replacement

Before I did a clutch cyl replacement I had read Brians threaded rod method.I found it a very effective way of doing this job single handed and with the car on axle stands.After doing one of my own cars I did another one for a workmate, modified the way I did it and used the threaded rod trick to remove the sub frame as well. Working this way I didn't need the use of a trolly jack at all and the beauty is that the sub frame is stable all the time and you don't need a second person.Like you I'm not a youngster
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