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Old 9th June 2015, 21:52   #1
Dallas
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Default Number Plate Light Not Working

They say everything comes in 3's, here is my 1st problem of this evenings journey.

I had the bulb out icon pop-up on the dash this evening.

Found both number plates light bulbs out, so I replaced with two new ones and still not working. I gave the bulbs a wiggle and the right light worked, but the left one will have non of it.

I checked power to the two terminals and no power, I checked power at the plug and bingo, we have power. So off came the boot plinth and found a white plastic surround with a circuit strip stuck down on a long black sticky adhesive pad, seems I may have a broken or corroded track.

But I cant get to it without pulling off the white surround and breaking the seal by pulling up the long circuit section.

Does anyone have one of these long circuit bit with the white surround, it has the two spade terminals on that enter the boot to plug the two wires on.

Last edited by Dallas; 9th June 2015 at 21:58..
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Old 10th June 2015, 09:07   #2
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This is all very strange, after spending an hour late last night dismantling the boot plinth number plate housing, this morning the bulb out icon was off. So I checked the number plate lights again and they are both working,

But! I found the white plastic housing beginning to melt just where the bulb sits.



Seems another silly design, the white plastic housing is riveted in two places to the long thin circuit track board, the track board is stuck to the boot body with a long thin adhesive pad. This means you have to break the seal on the adhesive and gently lift up the whole thing without breaking anything.

Would anyone know where I could get my hands on one of these, its the MK1 ZT. I wonder if all 75 and ZT's have the same moulded light unit under the different boot plinths...
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Old 10th June 2015, 10:22   #3
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Hi Dallas, mines gone too, again..... They are renowned for failing, water got into mine I think and shorted out. There is a how to or 2 on here about how to repair. I've repaired mine about a month ago and it's gone again. I'm waiting on a good second hand one to be delivered from our Trikey. Always worth a pm, he or other traders may have one for you. Other wise a breakers is a good place to look and I see you're planning a trip today. As far as I know they're all the same under whatever plinth is fitted over it. Make sure and peel back the nasty foam on any from a breakers to get a look at the circuit board underneath. Don't want to buy a bust un!
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Old 10th June 2015, 10:30   #4
Dallas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coups View Post
Hi Dallas, mines gone too, again..... They are renowned for failing, water got into mine I think and shorted out. There is a how to or 2 on here about how to repair. I've repaired mine about a month ago and it's gone again. I'm waiting on a good second hand one to be delivered from our Trikey. Always worth a pm, he or other traders may have one for you. Other wise a breakers is a good place to look and I see you're planning a trip today. As far as I know they're all the same under whatever plinth is fitted over it. Make sure and peel back the nasty foam on any from a breakers to get a look at the circuit board underneath. Don't want to buy a bust un!
Hi Coups,

lol I dont think Trikey is talking to me, long story...

I've just taken mine off and cleaned it, all looks ok except the melting plastic. The tracks look good, no broken or corroded sections. I was ready for a repair, but cant see any problems with it. I will look for the How To...
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Last edited by Dallas; 10th June 2015 at 10:33..
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Old 10th June 2015, 10:34   #5
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Oops..... Hope I haven't put my foot in it.....

It is looking remarkably clean. Wonder why it's overheated in the past then? Dodgy bulb getting hot before blowing maybe? It's a simple circuit with nothing hidden so if it works it works! Best make sure before you put it all back together again......I'd never get caught out like that.......
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Old 10th June 2015, 10:43   #6
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Two methods of repair for you Westley.... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ht=boot+plinth http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=89058
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Old 10th June 2015, 10:57   #7
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Brilliant! thanks Ronnie.
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Old 10th June 2015, 12:17   #8
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Why not get a couple of CANBUS friendly LED lights, no more heating and no filament to blow?
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Old 10th June 2015, 12:41   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewinpopayan View Post
Why not get a couple of CANBUS friendly LED lights, no more heating and no filament to blow?
If the heat is due to a high resistance track and the current draw of the bulb canbus friendly LEDs won't help - they draw the same current (that's how they are canbus friendly).

Most certain way is to bypass the circuit board by using some wires. (I've still to get around to doing mine which intermittenly goes off).
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Old 10th June 2015, 14:40   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avulon View Post
Most certain way is to bypass the circuit board by using some wires.
That's what I did
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