Brake fluid!

[topman]

Originally Posted by Ross R75

An interesting story, but without a source link, unfortunately it's a "my mate Dave".

No I'm afraid I've not got a link, it was some time ago. It was pretty authoritative, but as with everything on the Internet you can give it whatever weight you choose to

[bl52krz]

Sorry. Forgot we were on about brakes not clutches. Yes you are correct of course. Anyway, I bleed both the brakes and the clutch system’s. Should not shout to loud but it is the original clutch and slave at 102,000 miles.

[Forestgreen]

Don't think I've ever changed steering fluid in eight years. I've got half a bottle on the shelf left over from my previous car that burst a leak in the power steering and needed frequent topping up - will it still be any good now if I get the fluid changed at next service or should I chuck it out?

[SCP440]

You can buy a brake fluid tester for under £10, you will be surprised at the results you get with one.

The shocking thing is brake fluid once opened and left on the shelf will fail a test after a couple of months so if you do use some brake fluid make sure it is fresh.

As far as replacing brake fluid I was shown a neat trick. Undo the blead nipple on one wheel at a time with a piece of tubing attached, allow the weigh of the fluid to drain the fluid and keep topping the reservoir up, you will notice the colour change when the new fluid comes through. No air is introduced so no need to bleed.

[grout20]

Hi all,

I've been following this thread with interest.

Bleeding the brakes on my previous "hobby" cars - Triumph Spitfire, Vitesse, GT6, Cortina 1600E and Rover Montego has been straightforward...i.e. simple ... and rather rewarding tbh.

One of those rubber tubes with a tiny split in it on all brake nipples ....starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder ... and until nice clear fluid becomes obvious .... approach.

Seeing mention of "needing T4 when you do a '75's
brakes" suggests my earlier procedure isn't the way to do it. Modern cars, eh?!

Can someone confirm/offer a "non T4" method to follow... or will "mine" be safe /adequate/ not result in me driving into the back wall of my garage?

Tia and Happy Roving

John

[MSS]

Originally Posted by grout20

Hi all,

I've been following this thread with interest.

Bleeding the brakes on my previous "hobby" cars - Triumph Spitfire, Vitesse, GT6, Cortina 1600E and Rover Montego has been straightforward...i.e. simple ... and rather rewarding tbh.

One of those rubber tubes with a tiny split in it on all brake nipples ....starting with the one furthest away from the master cylinder ... and until nice clear fluid becomes obvious .... approach.

Seeing mention of "needing T4 when you do a '75's
brakes" suggests my earlier procedure isn't the way to do it. Modern cars, eh?!

Can someone confirm/offer a "non T4" method to follow... or will "mine" be safe /adequate/ not result in me driving into the back wall of my garage?

Tia and Happy Roving

John

Actually, the way I do it is to replace all the fluid in the reservoir and the pipes/slaves etc. using one of those pipe thingies and they work perfectly - I've had mine for about 25 years. Then take it to the T4 for the ABS.


The "Easibleed" thingies are for wimps!

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by MGJohn

Power Steering and Brake Fluid are completely different on all my MGs and ROVERs



That "fail" if true is surprising rather than shocking. Depending on the results measurement parameters, could be a sales ploy for testers and fresh fluid.

Yes, by opening the Bleed Nipples fully they will drain but, I feel air could enter the brake line that way without normal bleeding technique follow up.

That FAIL will only be true if you leave the brake fluid container OPEN.--Lol.

It's OPEN in the reservoir which breathes.---
And even then it takes years.---

[marinabrian]

If you don't have a T4 handy, the safest way to bleed the brakes on the car is without the ignition turned on, and without pressing the pedal.

My preferred method is gravity bleeding into a clear glass jar connected to the bleed nipple with clear tube, this way any bubbles can be easily seen, and the relaxed nature of the fluid flow means the "strata" of the new versus old fluid is plain to see.

However if speed is of the essence, then a pressure bleeder, or vacuum bleeding kit is far safer and preferable to the old fashioned pipe with a valve systems, being much less likely to result in sinking pedal syndrome

NSR, followed by OSR then NSF and finally OSF.



In terms of brake fluid changes, every two to three years is fine

Brian

[grout20]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

If you don't have a T4 handy, the safest way to bleed the brakes on the car is without the ignition turned on, and without pressing the pedal.

My preferred method is gravity bleeding into a clear glass jar connected to the bleed nipple with clear tube, this way any bubbles can be easily seen, and the relaxed nature of the fluid flow means the "strata" of the new versus old fluid is plain to see.

Brian

Thanks Brian.

Have never done the "gravity feed" method. Presumably just keep an eye and top up the master cylinder as the fluid disappears ... I guess it's a slow process?

Will it also drain from, and replace, the ABS content... ie the T4 bit?

Cheers

John

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by grout20

Thanks Brian.

Have never done the "gravity feed" method. Presumably just keep an eye and top up the master cylinder as the fluid disappears ... I guess it's a slow process?

Will it also drain from, and replace, the ABS content... ie the T4 bit?

Cheers

John

Takes about five to ten minutes per leg of the circuit John, so just under an hour, and yes the most you need to keep an eye on really is the master cylinder level

It replaces all bar about 40ml in the ABS modulator, so near enough really

Brian