NI MOT issues

[hogweed]

So, having paid somebody (with an excellent local reputation, stretching back 20 years) £450 for MOT prep, my car failed this morning, which is a bit annoying. The £450 covered two front suspension lower arms and bushes, some other bits and pieces, and £80 VAT of course.


It failed on two things:


1. Rear brake pipe leaking where it joins the flexi bit “Brake pipe leaking. Offside – under side leaking leading to flexi when brake” – is it reasonable, under any circumstances, for a very experienced mechanic to miss this when checking the car over? Also I’m pretty sure that pipe was replaced a year ago for its MOT in England…


2. “Suspension ball joint not secured correctly: Offside front: outer – movement in hub carrier”. I had previously taken the car to a local Rover wizard, and he said there might be a problem with the hub, but then he was too busy to prep it in time for the MOT, so I took it to the other guy this time. Could somebody explain what this diagnosis might mean please? I don’t really understand steering/suspension geometry any more… And also, might an experienced mechanic miss it when doing an MOT check?


Thanks as always

[Outlaw 41]

Originally Posted by hogweed

So, having paid somebody (with an excellent local reputation, stretching back 20 years) £450 for MOT prep, my car failed this morning, which is a bit annoying. The £450 covered two front suspension lower arms and bushes, some other bits and pieces, and £80 VAT of course.


It failed on two things:


1. Rear brake pipe leaking where it joins the flexi bit “Brake pipe leaking. Offside – under side leaking leading to flexi when brake” – is it reasonable, under any circumstances, for a very experienced mechanic to miss this when checking the car over? Also I’m pretty sure that pipe was replaced a year ago for its MOT in England…


2. “Suspension ball joint not secured correctly: Offside front: outer – movement in hub carrier”. I had previously taken the car to a local Rover wizard, and he said there might be a problem with the hub, but then he was too busy to prep it in time for the MOT, so I took it to the other guy this time. Could somebody explain what this diagnosis might mean please? I don’t really understand steering/suspension geometry any more… And also, might an experienced mechanic miss it when doing an MOT check?


Thanks as always

Hi hogweed , sorry to hear that your car failed its MOT but its not your fault. As far as i can see you wanted the car to pass so you asked an experienced mechanic to do the job. He said that he would he was so confident in his ability to get the car up to MOT standard and then he accepted payment for work done . In my opinion you have every right to go back to the trained mechanic and get him to finnish what he was paid for .

[75c]

Was it Mark ?? If it was he'll fix it. Most of the rover guys here would be mortified if they knew someone had paid £450 for a pre-mot and it still failed.

[hogweed]

Originally Posted by 75c

Was it Mark ?? If it was he'll fix it. Most of the rover guys here would be mortified if they knew someone had paid £450 for a pre-mot and it still failed.

No, not Mark this time

[hogweed]

Originally Posted by Outlaw 41

In my opinion you have every right to go back to the trained mechanic and get him to finnish what he was paid for .

Yeah, I'm sure he will. What I'm trying to assess here is whether the things it failed on are easy to miss - if not, I'll have to ask him if he gave it to some spotty youth to check


Oh, and also what the hub diagnosis meant...

[75c]

No idea, but get him to pay for the re-test too !


Someone who can actually answer one of your questions will be along shortly

[mh007]

Originally Posted by hogweed

Yeah, I'm sure he will. What I'm trying to assess here is whether the things it failed on are easy to miss - if not, I'll have to ask him if he gave it to some spotty youth to check


Oh, and also what the hub diagnosis meant...

In short, no these items shouldn't have been missed.

A brake fluid leak is pretty obvious because of course it will be damp on inspection.

Freeplay on the lower ball joint is almost certainly wear in the actual hub assembly.
When the new lower arms were fitted, a check should've been done for freeplay then.

[clf]

Originally Posted by hogweed

Yeah, I'm sure he will. What I'm trying to assess here is whether the things it failed on are easy to miss - if not, I'll have to ask him if he gave it to some spotty youth to check


Oh, and also what the hub diagnosis meant...

dont take this as a definitive answer, but your 'leaking' pipe, could it be a little bit of grease or oil from the mechanic's hands? ie did he try to clean up the pipes a little and rub grease onto them (for protection)? Renault 5s (the super 5) were notorious for splitting cv boots, the mot guys knew this and always went straight to them. Mine had been replaced, yet failed on one. It was 'fixed' by wiping it down. It was a lump of grease from the mechanics hand after he had fitted it and not noticed he left it behind. Because the mot guys dont have to touch the car, he didnt check this - that retest lasted less than 5 minutes (although shortest I saw was whilst queuing at Larne. The guy got into the back, clipped in and released a rear seat belt, and then went into the hall to issue the ticket!)

But ultimately, I would imagine brake lines and especially their unions would be one of the first things an MOT check would involve. Likewise the checking of wheel bearing play would be an obvious check, and would have thought any mechanic would have done this, which would have shown up the issue you had?

[hogweed]

Thanks for the helpful replies, guys. Sorry, I didn’t make it clear – there was an actual little puddle of fluid on the floor of the MOT station


So I drove the car home pretty carefully – leaving it back to the garage this morning.


mh007 – Guess you’re right about the wear on the hub. Now you say it, I think that’s what the previous mechanic said. Whole hub to be replaced then I suppose

[mh007]

Originally Posted by hogweed

mh007 – Guess you’re right about the wear on the hub. Now you say it, I think that’s what the previous mechanic said. Whole hub to be replaced then I suppose

Yes, a whole hub is needed but you should be able to source a good used one (hopefully with a good wheel bearing & ABS sensor).