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Old 27th November 2018, 12:57   #1
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Default Malfunction capillary housing 825/827 and 75?

Hi everybody,

I just got this reply from Holts, regarding the use of Speedweld Plus and Speedflush:

A number of years ago a statement was issued by Rover to all manufacturers of radiator sealants saying it was considered that the Rover 825 and 827 models could suffer a malfunction of their capillary housing units due to the units being narrower than those on other vehicles, we have no information that Radweld Plus would cause issues in the 75 model.

Would anybody have any clue if the "problem" of the 825/827 is relevant for the 75? And especially the 75 1.8 non turbo?
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Old 27th November 2018, 14:13   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
Would anybody have any clue if the "problem" of the 825/827 is relevant for the 75? And especially the 75 1.8 non turbo?

Most here seem to think it's relevant to all 75/ZT engines.


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Old 27th November 2018, 16:00   #3
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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
Most here seem to think it's relevant to all 75/ZT engines.


TC
That is not good news.... That would mean that I shouldn't use Radweld Plus. As I understand there is a chance this product will cause damage to my system?

Edit: not good news because I just ordered a bottle... [facepalm]
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Old 27th November 2018, 16:47   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
Hi everybody,

I just got this reply from Holts, regarding the use of Speedweld Plus and Speedflush:

A number of years ago a statement was issued by Rover to all manufacturers of radiator sealants saying it was considered that the Rover 825 and 827 models could suffer a malfunction of their capillary housing units due to the units being narrower than those on other vehicles, we have no information that Radweld Plus would cause issues in the 75 model.

Would anybody have any clue if the "problem" of the 825/827 is relevant for the 75? And especially the 75 1.8 non turbo?
We have no information that it would cause problems is the same as saying we have no information that it wouldn't cause problems

I wouldn't advise it's use in any car.

Russ
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Old 27th November 2018, 19:53   #5
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I wouldn't use Radweld full stop but this warning does not refer to the KV6. The early 800 series was launched with the Honda V6 engine, initially a 2.5 litre (badged 825) This was later enlarged to a capacity of 2.7 litres (badged 827) This is the engine to which the warning refers.
The KV6 powered 800 came on line in around 1994/5 as a 2.5 only and replaced the Honda unit. It gained a reputation for unreliability in the 800 and it's said that this application was seen as a bit of a test bed, such that any unreliability issues were overcome for the 75.
Back in the day, Radweld used to actually list an advisory on the bottle that stated it should not be used in the Rover 825 and 827 or Hondas with the same engine.
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Old 28th November 2018, 07:56   #6
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Thanks Badrover and BigRuss. From what Badrover explains, I would get the impression that the warning doesn't apply to the 1.8 K-series engine. The K-series isn't the Honda engine, although my knowledge on this object is tiny compared to some of the Forum members.

Apart from getting tools (and a waller) out, what would be a better alternative to use?
My cooling system uses too much coolant, I just topped it up with another liter after 3 months (+/- 3500 km / 2250 miles).
And seeing as I can't seem to get a reply to my private messages on this forum, and nobody picks up their phone after I got recommendations on Facebook for experienced Rover mechanics, I kinda need a temporary solution until I have found somebody who can fix some stuff. I assumed Radweld Plus would be good enough to get me through the next 6 months without to much coolant loss.
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Old 28th November 2018, 08:53   #7
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I kinda need a temporary solution ...
You've got one Vinnie, keep topping it up! Alternatively, initiate that permanant solution now. Why wait six months?

In the meantime, have you inspected the expansion tank cap seals? Oh, and when the bottle of Radweld arrives, throw it in the bin.

What's a "capillary housing unit" by the way?

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Old 28th November 2018, 11:49   #8
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I do keep topping it up, but I rather have a temporary solution that I can't forget to do . I don't know what the permanent solution should be, I have searched high and low but can't find the problem. I had 2 topics on here, 1 topic on another forum and 3 posts on a few Rover-Facebook groups. Despite all the advice, I still don't know where it goes.
I also sent a few PM's to some members on here (due to a topic about asking for a Rover specialist in the UK), and have tried to e-mail/call a few Rover-specialists to get a quote on getting the headgasket, belts and clutch done. Not 1 reply.

What a capilary housing unit is? No clue... I just quoted the guy from Radweld :P lol. I kinda assumed that it was an English term that you guys would understand.
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Old 28th November 2018, 12:14   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
I don't know what the permanent solution should be, I have searched high and low but can't find the problem.
Leaks are never easy to trace. Your most valuable tool is your eyes and an inquisitive nature.

The level in my expansion tank used to vary regularly by a small amount. This stopped after I renewed the cap seals. Have you done that?

Some time ago I saw a 1.8 where the coolant pipe running from the thermostat housing hadn't been screwed back to the side of the block. The subsequent movement had caused a leak at the joint which eventually gave way. You could check that on your engine.

There's no easy diagnosis. It will take time and involve crawling around under the engine and taking a few things off. But one thing is certain; the answer is not to put gluey substances in the coolant and hope for the best.

Good luck with it Vinnie.

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Old 28th November 2018, 12:26   #10
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You have probably been down this route but the biggest weakness with the 1.8/1.8T is the inlet manifold and gasket. The gasket can weep particularly when the engine is cooling down allowing coolant into the manifold itself. The usual pointer for that is a rough idle on cold start up and possible steamy exhaust until the coolant is burnt off, there may/may not be evidence of coolant on the rear of the block below the manifold. The plastic inlet manifold itself can distort meaning it will never perfectly seal.
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