Possible Cure for Dodgy Handbrake..

[zeek]

Having shown the carpet no mercy my new compensator is now fitted. All for the cost of 13mm deep socket. Will return the slack one tomorrow. Thank you.

[TopGun]

Certainly the proper solution is to replace the Compensator with a new or modified unit by either stripping out all the interior or getting access underneath and dropping the exhaust - both big jobs.

I needed to fix mine for next week's MOT and so I just made a spacer from a 3/8" nut with a 8.5mm square hole to fit over the square part of the adjuster bolt. I welded a short rod on it to ensure I could line up the square hole with the square part of the adjuster bolt on the end of the cable. I could then adjust the lever to the correct point.

It works well for the moment at least until the Compensator unit bends even more.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by TopGun

Certainly the proper solution is to replace the Compensator with a new or modified unit by either stripping out all the interior or getting access underneath and dropping the exhaust - both big jobs.

I needed to fix mine for next week's MOT and so I just made a spacer from a 3/8" nut with a 8.5mm square hole to fit over the square part of the adjuster bolt. I welded a short rod on it to ensure I could line up the square hole with the square part of the adjuster bolt on the end of the cable. I could then adjust the lever to the correct point.

It works well for the moment at least until the Compensator unit bends even more.

I would advise not to do this as you could end up having to replace the front cable as well as a compensator, it must have taken you longer welding the short rod and fitting the 3/8 nut than it takes me to fit the compensator 15 mins if i rush click the blue banner at the bottom of any post of mine to see how best to fit Arctic

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=115958

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by TopGun

Certainly the proper solution is to replace the Compensator with a new or modified unit by either stripping out all the interior or getting access underneath and dropping the exhaust - both big jobs.

I needed to fix mine for next week's MOT and so I just made a spacer from a 3/8" nut with a 8.5mm square hole to fit over the square part of the adjuster bolt. I welded a short rod on it to ensure I could line up the square hole with the square part of the adjuster bolt on the end of the cable. I could then adjust the lever to the correct point.

It works well for the moment at least until the Compensator unit bends even more.

Lifting the carpet and the rear of the console, fitting a modified compensator and refitting is the work of no more than an hour, even for me. Add another hour for doing the drums and you have an handbrake which works as intended.

[beinet1]

Hi Artic,

Love your modification it seems strong and reliable and will probably last longer than the car.

I modified mine yesterday, but in another way. I have to admitt that I did not bother to do the hassle to drilling up the bracket and removal of the crosspin to fit the shackle.

Instead I fabricated a simple spacer/stiffener from 3mm sheet metal and MIG welded it in place. I think this should be more than good enough

Just thinking of mass-modification, these sheet metal pieces could be made by lazer/water jet cutting for a price each cheaper than the shackle itself if you order 50-100 pieces of them from the specialist`s. The mounting is pretty quick and simple. Just clean up the ends on the compensator, fit the spacer in the correct position and weld it in place.

Some piccies:








P.S.
My welds have never looked good....

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Hi Artic,

Love your modification it seems strong and reliable and will probably last longer than the car.

I modified mine yesterday, but in another way. I have to admitt that I did not bother to do the hassle to drilling up the bracket and removal of the crosspin.

Instead I fabricated a simple spacer/stiffener from 3mm sheet metal and MIG welded it in place. I think this should be more than good enough

Just thinking of mass-modification, these sheet metal pieces could be made by lazer/water jet cutting for a price each cheaper than the shackle itself if you order 50-100 pieces of them from the specialist`s. The mounting is pretty quick and simple. Just clean up the ends on the compensator, fit the spacer in the correct position and weld it in place.

Some piccies:

I would suggest that would work fine for many of them, but keep in mind...

The amount of stretch varies considerably. Some are so stretched that there just would not be room on the upper end for you to weld your bit of plate. Some are also bent or distorted sideways, due to the uneven adjustment at the hubs. Uneven adjustment makes the two cables different lengths, if this is beyond the range of the compensators ability to compensate, then the compensator bends.

Which is why I keep stressing that when a modified compensator is installed, that the adjustment must also be done at the hubs, at the same time - be it one of Arctics, one of my compensators or a modification you devise yourself. A new or modified compensator can only adjust for a difference in the two cables of around 6mm.

The method you used was one of the first methods I tried, but I rejected it due to to so many of the stretched compensators, not only being stretched in length, but being also being twisted due to imbalance at the hubs, plus the difficulty of fine tuning the gap between the two brackets. The 2 - 3mm gap needs to be there, to allow the unit pivot, to work as a compensator.

I grind the end off the small peg or crosspin, strip out then reform the long 'nail part' to correct dimensions, reassemble then weld it all back up including welding the two ends of the 'nail' together so it can never suffer stretch again.

I'm presently offering these ready modified compensators for just £7 including delivery, but please do not request one if you have no intention of returning your old one - I have now had several members take one of my modified units and run, which makes it difficult for me to maintain the service for more honest members.

[Arctic]

Hi Einar
With it welded that close to both ends doe's it compensate left and right or is it stiff, also i think i will stick to my tried and tested stainless steel version Arctic.

[beinet1]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

I would suggest that would work fine for many of them, but keep in mind...

The amount of stretch varies considerably. Some are so stretched that there just would not be room on the upper end for you to weld your bit of plate. Some are also bent or distorted sideways, due to the uneven adjustment at the hubs. Uneven adjustment makes the two cables different lengths, if this is beyond the range of the compensators ability to compensate, then the compensator bends.

Which is why I keep stressing that when a modified compensator is installed, that the adjustment must also be done at the hubs, at the same time - be it one of Arctics, one of my compensators or a modification you devise yourself. A new or modified compensator can only adjust for a difference in the two cables of around 6mm.

The method you used was one of the first methods I tried, but I rejected it due to to so many of the stretched compensators, not only being stretched in length, but being also being twisted due to imbalance at the hubs, plus the difficulty of fine tuning the gap between the two brackets. The 2 - 3mm gap needs to be there, to allow the unit pivot, to work as a compensator.

I grind the end off the small peg or crosspin, strip out then reform the long 'nail part' to correct dimensions, reassemble then weld it all back up including welding the two ends of the 'nail' together so it can never suffer stretch again.

I'm presently offering these ready modified compensators for just £7 including delivery, but please do not request one if you have no intention of returning your old one - I have now had several members take one of my modified units and run, which makes it difficult for me to maintain the service for more honest members.

Thats a comment from the experts... There is always a reson for why things ends up like they does...

Thanks for clarifying that up

Mine seems to work quite well now. It wasn`t to badly stretched making me able to do the mod I did. I have 1-2mm gap in the compensator and it allowsfor neccesary sideway play.

I have still not adjusted the drums, but I plan to open them up sooner or later and maybe replace the brake shoes also.

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Thats a comment from the experts... There is always a reson for why things ends up like they does...

Thanks for clarifying that up

Mine seems to work quite well now. It wasn`t to badly stretched making me able to do the mod I did. I have 1-2mm gap in the compensator and it allowsfor neccesary sideway play.

I have still not adjusted the drums, but I plan to open them up sooner or later and maybe replace the brake shoes also.

Hi,

I did exactly the same thing as you and works perfectly without drum adjust .
(MOT congratulations )

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by beinet1

Thats a comment from the experts... There is always a reson for why things ends up like they does...

Thanks for clarifying that up

Mine seems to work quite well now. It wasn`t to badly stretched making me able to do the mod I did. I have 1-2mm gap in the compensator and it allowsfor neccesary sideway play.

I have still not adjusted the drums, but I plan to open them up sooner or later and maybe replace the brake shoes also.

Looking at your photo of the compensator - that is quite well stretched, but so long as there is enough play to allow it to swivel, no doubt it will be fine, no need for shiny shackles.

I consider the adjustment at the hubs to be an essential part of the process, simply because the compensator design (be it as original, welded, or with a shackle) does not permit very much compensation in its design.