revs max out at 2600rpm

Tnarg · 10th February 2012, 17:47

My rover 75 CDT 51 plate. Started to do the following on monday:

Car initally started to 'stutter' loss of power (did not cut out).

I managed to limp home ok in it.

Both fuel pumps are ok i changed the fuel filtter STILL Max 2600rpm!!!

It runs at idle ok (2 hours i left it for). Never cuts out.

I can drive it all be it very slowly!!

I have disconnected MAF ran ok for a 20 minute run - then failed.
Remove air duct and air fillter - still faulty

please help.

markyp · 10th February 2012, 19:02

You could check the HP fuel rail sensor plug as it might have a poor connection, Try disconnecting the plug and cleaning the contacts carefully or spray with wd40. If the sensor plug is corroded the signal to the ecu will be reduced and the engine will run in limp mode due to low fuel pressure. Also double check the in tank pump and under bonnet low pressure fuel pumps are running.
Good luck with the fault finding

.

blacknwhite · 10th February 2012, 19:36

O rings. Mine (and Deeks) was same.

Singvogel · 10th February 2012, 19:39

Hi,

I would check the turbo hoses too, for splits that look like they were done with a Stanley knife. Especially the 90degree one before the EGR

Singvogel.

deeks · 10th February 2012, 19:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tnarg

My rover 75 CDT 51 plate. Started to do the following on monday:

Car initally started to 'stutter' loss of power (did not cut out).

I managed to limp home ok in it.

Both fuel pumps are ok i changed the fuel filtter STILL Max 2600rpm!!!

It runs at idle ok (2 hours i left it for). Never cuts out.

I can drive it all be it very slowly!!

I have disconnected MAF ran ok for a 20 minute run - then failed.
Remove air duct and air fillter - still faulty

please help.

this is exactly what myn does starts up fine boosts 3-4 seconds then pwoer dies as if it goes into limp mode, ive narrowed it down to remove maf and the other connector joining to maf @ the left side of injectors
and then on RH side the fuel rail sensor un plug them both and spray with wd40 or gt 85 to test wich sensor is giving you the trouble the 1 linked to maf if you unplug while car is running should kill the car (requring restart) if not it will do the same as myn carries on running, turn off car plug back in with maf out, fuel rail sensor test is unplug when car is running rev car let off if it wants to die then picks up again you know that sensor is ok if when you plug back in the revs go properly also trying doing this process when car is off unplugging then re pluggin back in

both of myn are playing up at the minute >.< so when it loses power its 1 of 2 things hope this helps keep me informed myns a 2001 y reg CDT auto 75

deeks · 10th February 2012, 19:55

it boosts fine for 3-4 secs if u rev straight from turn over if you leave it while plugs warm up or a few secs for lights to clear it jumps into limp mode

James.uk · 11th February 2012, 02:55

Posted by blacknwhite... >>>O rings. Mine (and Deeks) was same. <<<

Hi Deeks..

blacknwhite is claiming that replacing the "O" rings put both your cars right??? Is that not so?????

If it's untrue please correct that for him or it will mislead people into thinking it will cure cars that wont rev above 2600 rpm ...

...

deeks · 11th February 2012, 06:00

it seemed to help myn a little, well to be honest myn didnt have any o rings at all so it will of helped, i have noticed my boosting is more stable, but as for the running of the car its still temperamental, and for the sake of a few £ i would still replace anyway

deeks · 11th February 2012, 07:32

forgot to add last night on a cold start let your glow plugs warm up 5-6 times turn over let oil get round for a second then just tickle the throttle a few times

Tnarg · 11th February 2012, 20:08

Update:

Forgot to mention my car is 51 CDT 170k miles

New fuel fillter - no fix

New UBP - no fix

i tried the fuel pressures sensor today (not changing) i sprayer wd40 and 'wiggled' connector and wires - still faulty.

i removed air ducts and filter and disconnected MAF - the fault then was a more intermittent but more faulty (2600rpm) than fixed.

what is driving me mad is that it isn't failing/faulty 100% of the time.

At idle with foot to the floor the revs will cough and splutter to full revs then drop back to 2600rpm.

thanks deek for input i will try the sensor unplugging tomorow and let you know my out come.

The car is 1 step closer to the scrap yard as i went out and purchased a MG ZT-T CDTi today - gluten for punishment i know!!

10th February 2012, 17:47	#1
Tnarg Newbie MGZTT Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Blantyre Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	revs max out at 2600rpm My rover 75 CDT 51 plate. Started to do the following on monday: Car initally started to 'stutter' loss of power (did not cut out). I managed to limp home ok in it. Both fuel pumps are ok i changed the fuel filtter STILL Max 2600rpm!!! It runs at idle ok (2 hours i left it for). Never cuts out. I can drive it all be it very slowly!! I have disconnected MAF ran ok for a 20 minute run - then failed. Remove air duct and air fillter - still faulty please help.

10th February 2012, 19:02	#2
markyp Gets stuck in MG ZT CDTI+ X-power 135 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: lutton, Lincolnshire. Posts: 538 Thanks: 24 Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts	You could check the HP fuel rail sensor plug as it might have a poor connection, Try disconnecting the plug and cleaning the contacts carefully or spray with wd40. If the sensor plug is corroded the signal to the ecu will be reduced and the engine will run in limp mode due to low fuel pressure. Also double check the in tank pump and under bonnet low pressure fuel pumps are running. Good luck with the fault finding . __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Just when things are going well !!

10th February 2012, 19:36	#3
blacknwhite Posted a thing or two Black Rover 75 Connie CDT and Twilight Chromactive ZT Turbo Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 1,602 Thanks: 15 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts	O rings. Mine (and Deeks) was same.

10th February 2012, 19:39	#4
Singvogel Gets stuck in 75 CDT, 1966 2000TC P6, TD4-M47 Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Deepest darkest Aberdeenshire Posts: 626 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Hi, I would check the turbo hoses too, for splits that look like they were done with a Stanley knife. Especially the 90degree one before the EGR Singvogel.

10th February 2012, 19:55	#6
deeks Posted a thing or two MG ZT 2.0 DIESEL Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Barwell Posts: 1,037 Thanks: 12 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	it boosts fine for 3-4 secs if u rev straight from turn over if you leave it while plugs warm up or a few secs for lights to clear it jumps into limp mode

11th February 2012, 02:55	#7
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	Posted by blacknwhite... >>>O rings. Mine (and Deeks) was same. <<< Hi Deeks.. blacknwhite is claiming that replacing the "O" rings put both your cars right??? Is that not so????? If it's untrue please correct that for him or it will mislead people into thinking it will cure cars that wont rev above 2600 rpm ... ...

11th February 2012, 06:00	#8
deeks Posted a thing or two MG ZT 2.0 DIESEL Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Barwell Posts: 1,037 Thanks: 12 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	it seemed to help myn a little, well to be honest myn didnt have any o rings at all so it will of helped, i have noticed my boosting is more stable, but as for the running of the car its still temperamental, and for the sake of a few £ i would still replace anyway

11th February 2012, 07:32	#9
deeks Posted a thing or two MG ZT 2.0 DIESEL Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Barwell Posts: 1,037 Thanks: 12 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	forgot to add last night on a cold start let your glow plugs warm up 5-6 times turn over let oil get round for a second then just tickle the throttle a few times

11th February 2012, 20:08	#10
Tnarg Newbie MGZTT Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Blantyre Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Update: Forgot to mention my car is 51 CDT 170k miles New fuel fillter - no fix New UBP - no fix i tried the fuel pressures sensor today (not changing) i sprayer wd40 and 'wiggled' connector and wires - still faulty. i removed air ducts and filter and disconnected MAF - the fault then was a more intermittent but more faulty (2600rpm) than fixed. what is driving me mad is that it isn't failing/faulty 100% of the time. At idle with foot to the floor the revs will cough and splutter to full revs then drop back to 2600rpm. thanks deek for input i will try the sensor unplugging tomorow and let you know my out come. The car is 1 step closer to the scrap yard as i went out and purchased a MG ZT-T CDTi today - gluten for punishment i know!!