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19th April 2017, 18:48 | #51 |
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Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012
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Hi.
I was always told that give any bolt exposed to the weather to soak with plus gas before going near it with a socket. Then believe it or not tighten it first as it breaks the rust. It's always worked for me.
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19th April 2017, 18:52 | #52 |
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Yeah have done the tighten to loosen thing myself but the pinch bolt had been given a good soaking for a week in release oil and then more before we started trying to loosen it.
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19th April 2017, 18:56 | #53 |
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Grinder then and drill out the remains. High tensile nut and bolt will be fine and pass the MOT.
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19th April 2017, 18:58 | #54 |
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Didn't even need to do that either, although I almost had to with the bottom ball joint bolt but I got it moved with the breaker bar and a toothed socket as it was starting to round! Replaced the bottom ball joint nut and bolt and will replace the passengers side one as well when that gets stripped later
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19th April 2017, 19:04 | #55 |
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I would be confident my clarke 240v impact wrench would shift it, using black hex socket. If stuborn, tighten then slacken, has always worked for me, best money I ever spent.
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19th April 2017, 20:59 | #56 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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19th April 2017, 21:01 | #57 |
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Well I reccomend a breaker bar extended lol, it shifted the bolt without much force, the breaker itself wouldn't budge it either.
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20th April 2017, 16:06 | #58 |
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ok if clarke impact wrench doesn't get it, get the bolt nice and hot, then have another go. Also give everything a few good taps with a hammer. It must come out.
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20th April 2017, 16:08 | #59 |
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It's getting it out without rounding it is the trick, that's what happened to my ball joint bolt, it started to round but managed to get it off anyway. Least it's done and I can start using the car soon
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20th April 2017, 18:02 | #60 | |
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