Any how to's for refurbing PAS pump?

David Lawrence · 2nd August 2015, 05:00

My PAS pump is dribbling from somewhere. Just seems to be oozing out from an undertermined place. I am guessing this might just need a gasket. It is definitely not from around the pulley, or the rubber pipes just looks like a fine mist generally all over it.

Is there a how to anywhere for stripping and rebuilding one?

Failing that any advice on replacing it? New ones look well over £200, refurbished ones around £70, and used second hand ones plenty around £25.

Had an idea to get a used one, refurbish it myself then just swap it over.

kaiser · 2nd August 2015, 08:00

Yes, an easy fix most likely.!
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=216520

Although this is not maybe a "how to" it should give you an idea.

David Lawrence · 2nd August 2015, 11:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Yes, an easy fix most likely.!
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=216520

Although this is not maybe a "how to" it should give you an idea.

Now i have a new dilemma. Spend £25 on a second hand unit or £30 on a set of new seals. Can anyone confirm if they have actually used one of these kits?

http://steeringseals.com/75.html

Best_of_British · 2nd August 2015, 13:08

I would check that O - ring beinet1 found distorted, may be a quid fix.

David Lawrence · 2nd August 2015, 14:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Best_of_British

I would check that O - ring beinet1 found distorted, may be a quid fix.

I am going to take a look today. Just found my o rings box. Its been lost ever since i tidied up the workshop.........I mean the kitchen.

kaiser · 2nd August 2015, 14:27

Nothing never so bad that it is not good for something.

David Lawrence · 2nd August 2015, 16:33

Well there is another £30 the forum has saved me. Fitted the o ring to the outlet flange and been for a drive, the dribble apprears to have stopped.

Cant say that the old o ring looked particularly bad, but the flange mates with a recess in the pump housing, which means the o ring needs to plug a gap, and looking at the old one it appears to have shrunk to a point where it wouldnt have been sealing particularly strongly if at all.

Here is a brief how to of what I did:

1. Removed engine cover(diesel)
2. Removed the 3 bolts holding the pas reservoir to the engine mount and lifted the reservoir as high as the pipes allow
3. Removed the hose clip from the front hose which goes in to the inlet pipe on front of the pump.
4. Position a big rag over the alternator
5. Position a container under the reservoir hose which you are about to pull off
6. Pull the hose off and drain the reservoir
7. If you have one then use a vacuum pump to drain the last bit of fluid out of the hose that goes to the front inlet on the pump. If not then you will have to make sure you have a big enough rag to soak up what is going to drain out when you take the inlet off.
8. Remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the inlet on, and lift out the inlet and retrieve the o ring. In my case is was attached to the pipe, but it could equally be sitting in the recess.
9. Fit a 15mm i/d x 2mm cross section diameter o ring. That is what i used. It is a reasonably secure fit around the pipe, and about 0.75mm thicker than what came out. I cant say if this is the right size or not, but it seems to fit ok, and the recess in the pump mount is just under 2mm as best as i could measure it.
10. Refit everything, but you will need a jubillee clip to replace the original pipe clip unless you have a tool for refitting it which i dont.
11. Refill the reservoir, i used shell spirax atf. Run the engine for a few minutes turning the steering from side to side a few times then recheck the level. Mine had gone down, so i topped it up to the level again.
12. Dry as much of any previously leaked fluid from around the pump as you can then go for a drive. On my return all was bone dry, so i am optimistic, although i have no idea about the suitability of the o ring material i have used because it comes from an unmarked box of assorted sizes. However, if it does spring another leak in Future because of this at least i will know what size to buy in ready for the job.

Here is the view with the inlet removed. All was done leaving the rest of the pump undisturbed, so is only about a 20 minute job. You can see the depth of the recess that needs to be sealed by the o ring. My o ring appeared to have shrunk.

image.jpg

Its worth noting that the removed fluid was pretty brown, and smelly, so may need to look at replacing it.

2nd August 2015, 05:00	#1
David Lawrence This is my second home Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wrexham, North Wales Posts: 3,606 Thanks: 195 Thanked 606 Times in 501 Posts	Any how to's for refurbing PAS pump? My PAS pump is dribbling from somewhere. Just seems to be oozing out from an undertermined place. I am guessing this might just need a gasket. It is definitely not from around the pulley, or the rubber pipes just looks like a fine mist generally all over it. Is there a how to anywhere for stripping and rebuilding one? Failing that any advice on replacing it? New ones look well over £200, refurbished ones around £70, and used second hand ones plenty around £25. Had an idea to get a used one, refurbish it myself then just swap it over.

2nd August 2015, 08:00	#2
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Yes, an easy fix most likely.! http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=216520 Although this is not maybe a "how to" it should give you an idea.

2nd August 2015, 13:08	#4
Best_of_British Gets stuck in Rover 75 Tourer & Arden Green Project Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Ormskirk Posts: 932 Thanks: 159 Thanked 200 Times in 155 Posts	I would check that O - ring beinet1 found distorted, may be a quid fix.

2nd August 2015, 14:27	#6
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Nothing never so bad that it is not good for something.

2nd August 2015, 16:33	#7
David Lawrence This is my second home Rover 75 CDT-2001 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wrexham, North Wales Posts: 3,606 Thanks: 195 Thanked 606 Times in 501 Posts	Well there is another £30 the forum has saved me. Fitted the o ring to the outlet flange and been for a drive, the dribble apprears to have stopped. Cant say that the old o ring looked particularly bad, but the flange mates with a recess in the pump housing, which means the o ring needs to plug a gap, and looking at the old one it appears to have shrunk to a point where it wouldnt have been sealing particularly strongly if at all. Here is a brief how to of what I did: 1. Removed engine cover(diesel) 2. Removed the 3 bolts holding the pas reservoir to the engine mount and lifted the reservoir as high as the pipes allow 3. Removed the hose clip from the front hose which goes in to the inlet pipe on front of the pump. 4. Position a big rag over the alternator 5. Position a container under the reservoir hose which you are about to pull off 6. Pull the hose off and drain the reservoir 7. If you have one then use a vacuum pump to drain the last bit of fluid out of the hose that goes to the front inlet on the pump. If not then you will have to make sure you have a big enough rag to soak up what is going to drain out when you take the inlet off. 8. Remove the 2 10mm bolts that hold the inlet on, and lift out the inlet and retrieve the o ring. In my case is was attached to the pipe, but it could equally be sitting in the recess. 9. Fit a 15mm i/d x 2mm cross section diameter o ring. That is what i used. It is a reasonably secure fit around the pipe, and about 0.75mm thicker than what came out. I cant say if this is the right size or not, but it seems to fit ok, and the recess in the pump mount is just under 2mm as best as i could measure it. 10. Refit everything, but you will need a jubillee clip to replace the original pipe clip unless you have a tool for refitting it which i dont. 11. Refill the reservoir, i used shell spirax atf. Run the engine for a few minutes turning the steering from side to side a few times then recheck the level. Mine had gone down, so i topped it up to the level again. 12. Dry as much of any previously leaked fluid from around the pump as you can then go for a drive. On my return all was bone dry, so i am optimistic, although i have no idea about the suitability of the o ring material i have used because it comes from an unmarked box of assorted sizes. However, if it does spring another leak in Future because of this at least i will know what size to buy in ready for the job. Here is the view with the inlet removed. All was done leaving the rest of the pump undisturbed, so is only about a 20 minute job. You can see the depth of the recess that needs to be sealed by the o ring. My o ring appeared to have shrunk. image.jpg Its worth noting that the removed fluid was pretty brown, and smelly, so may need to look at replacing it.