Rear Brake Pipe dropping Tank

[Best_of_British]

Hi

As tittle suggests I am about to have a look at replacing rear brake pipe, I have done a fair bit of research on here and have the parts ready to go. My only concern is the cheap Sealey flaring tool may not be up to the job, some say they will be others say I will end up buying another, I will conclude the thread with picture of tool and a appraisal.

I hope to drop the tank slightly and ease the old pipe out in one piece to use as a template, but I cant find much information on dropping the fuel tank.

As far as I can see the craddle straps are held on by 4 bolts that I currently have soaked in plus gas along with the bleed nipples. The bit im unsure of is the top of the tank, what needs to be done under the seat squab to allow the tank to be safely lowered a little without damaging the pump and pipes?

[MSS]

Excellent question about dropping the tank. I've often wondered but never got around to researching.

[T-Cut]

Unless you must have the same pipe configuration, there's no particular reason to run the new pipes over the tank. It's perfectly satisfactory to trace them around it following an easier accessible route The essential thing is the pipework must be securely attached to the body with no possibility of being fouled by the suspension, etc. It will pass MOT whatever the routing.

TC

[Best_of_British]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Unless you must have the same pipe configuration, there's no particular reason to run the new pipes over the tank. It's perfectly satisfactory to trace them around it following an easier accessible route The essential thing is the pipework must be securely attached to the body with no possibility of being fouled by the suspension, etc. It will pass MOT whatever the routing.

TC

This will be plan B, but if possible I wanted to have a go at keeping it original and using the original clips and run. Its good to know there are alternative routes, I will have a look and see if I can find some pics of alternative routes.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Best_of_British

I will have a look and see if I can find some pics of alternative routes.

i've never seen any myself, but basically you invent your own.

TC

[marinabrian]

Just take them off in one piece

Run the tank down to the knockers, then when you are ready to replace the pipework, the tank can be dropped down and rested on the exhaust.

This will leave more than enough room to unclip the pipework, and remove to use as a template.

Then the new pipework can be installed using the same clips and same routing, avoiding the spaghetti look as seen in many "oh you don't need to take the tank off" just re-route it jobs

Brian

[Mg guy]

I've dropped a tank on my last car as I thought the same thing use the old clips and same route. What a mistake it was the tank drop was a nightmare as the bolts on the brackets had rusted so more time spent there. Then most of the clips broke as they was very brittle after 10 years as they are only plastic.

In the end I just made my own route and cable tied it every foot or so which in the end took less time than dropping the tank. There was no problems with regards to MOT as long as they wont get caught on anything or drop down your all good.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Mg guy

I've dropped a tank on my last car as I thought the same thing use the old clips and same route. What a mistake it was the tank drop was a nightmare as the bolts on the brackets had rusted so more time spent there. Then most of the clips broke as they was very brittle after 10 years as they are only plastic.

In the end I just made my own route and cable tied it every foot or so which in the end took less time than dropping the tank. There was no problems with regards to MOT as long as they wont get caught on anything or drop down your all good.

Cable tied eh? remind me never to buy a car from you

The trick to releasing the brake pipes without wrecking the plastic clips, requires a little bit of thought......manufactured using an old bean tin, or similar thin sheet steel, fashion a U shaped tool about an inch tall and six or seven millimeters at the closed end.

Then you push the "U" over the brake pipe where it enters the clip thus compressing simultaneously both sides of the plastic clip, and the pipe can be levered gently out.

So no rive tear damage break, and easy refitting of the replacement pipes

Also saves money on cable ties

Brian

[Best_of_British]

Parts ordered and arrived:



Bleed nipples cleaned and sprayed with plus-gas. Good quality german spanner made easy work of them:



Attacked the rear union to flexi hose first:




The corrosion that caused MOT failure can be seen clearly on this one:



Next was the front union, again soaked in plus-gas







Pipe was easy to remove with a bit of care all the clips stayed intact.

Old used as a template for new:



Pipe replacement was easy as it just clips back into old clips.













Quick bleed and all done.



I have done 100 miles since and checked the unions today, no leaks bone dry. So one down 2 to go, NSR will be done next.

[marinabrian]

Excellent, just as it should be done

You may find the NSR run a little trickier, as this one requires the dropping of the tank

I have in most occasions fitted an extra union midway along the run above the tank, and when removing the old pipe to use as the template, made a cut in the original pipe in the same place, meaning it can be removed from the car without distorting the shape

I note you've used copper pipe, the only thing I would have done differently would be to use kunifer, but the job looks good so far

Brian