Remote lazy locking / venting.

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by Christopher

Paul, remember the relay would have to "latch" for a defined period of time and then unlatch. The windows only go up or down for as long as the key is turned in the lock.

Apparently, whilst the transmitter button is held, the receiver operates the appropriate relay Christopher ie. press=on, release=off. In addition, it has a toggle and momentary mode so with luck I should be able to get the open and close function working on a single channel

Anyway, it's going to be fun trying

[raykay]

You would need the output that operates the relay for as long as the button was pressed to mimic the operation of the key, and two relays - one for lock and close the windows, the other for unlock and open the windows.

[ceedy]

On a similar line ... ref the bit I'm going to try.

Found some info for another Window closer that is very very similar, might even just be the plastic box thats different.


---Info --------------

Override Wires (optional):

White/red: Negative override
White/green: Positive override
These wires can be used to prevent the windows from closing or to stop the windows when partially closed,
eg. connect to an aux output from an alarm so that the windows can be stopped before they are fully closed for ventilation.
They are not normally used on most installations and as with the trigger wires only one would be used depending on the alarm/locking polarity.

Switched 12V From Ignition (optional):

If connected this will prevent the windows from closing if the module is triggered whilst driving the car.
Usually only used if the trigger wire above is connected to the cars central locking. ( most likely need this if speed locking is on board)

Ground Output (optional):

This is a negative output can be used to daisy chain other module and is not normally used.

Connections To Windows:

There are two wires for each window, colour and colour/white for each door.

There are three types of windows:

Positive Lifting Windows:
This is the most common type of electric window system.
Both wires to the window motor rest at ground (at all times, ignition on and off) and one or the other is switched to 12V to make the window rise or fall.

The wire you need to connect to is the one that switches to 12V when the window rises.
Cut this wire and connect the green wire (or green/white on other side) on the window closure to the part of the cut wire that leads towards the motor.
Connect the blue (or blue/white on other side) to the side of the cut wire that goes towards the switch.
Connect the short red flylead to the matching connector on the RED 12V wire.

Negative Lifting Windows (type 1):
Both wires to the motor rest at 12V (at all times, ignition on and off) and one or the other is switched to ground to make the window rise or fall.

The wire you need to connect to is the one that switches to ground when the window rises.
Cut this wire and connect the green wire (or green/white on other side) on the window closure to the part of the cut
wire that leads towards the motor. Connect the blue (or blue/white on other side) to the side of the cut wire that goes towards the switch.
Connect the short red flylead to the matching connector on the BLACK ground wire.

Negative Lifting Windows (type 2):
Both wires to the motor rest at 12V (but ONLY when the ignition is on) and one or the other is switched to ground to make the window rise or fall.

The wire you need to connect to is the one that switches to ground when the window rises.
Cut this wire and connect the green wire (or green/white on other side) on the window closure to the part of the cut
wire that leads towards the motor. Connect the blue (or blue/white on other side) to the side of the cut wire that goes towards the switch.
As the 12V feed is only present when the ignition is on you need to rewire the 12V ignition
feed to the switches via a relay as shown in the box at the bottom left of the wiring diagram.
This changes the 12V feed to a ground when the ignition is off and you then wire the windows as described above for positive lifting windows.
When the ignition is on everything still works as normal. Connect the short red flylead to the matching connector on the RED 12V wire.

-----------------------------

Not having a wiring diag its would be nice to know which window type might be applicable, to give me a head start !!

Would think the module would go in the drivers door as all cables should be around the doors window switches.

Any takers ?

Happy Banks Hols,

Chris

its raining down here !!! so unlikey to rip the door panel off today.

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by raykay

You would need the output that operates the relay for as long as the button was pressed to mimic the operation of the key, and two relays - one for lock and close the windows, the other for unlock and open the windows.

I've confirmed with the fleabay seller that the receiver sends the signal continuously for the length of time that the transmitter button is pressed if the momentary or momentary / toggle functions are selected.

Whether or not I can use the momentary / toggle function of just one channel would depend, I suspect, on what type of relay contacts are fitted in the receiver assembly.

On reflection, I'm beginning to think that it would be better to have the up and down functions on separate channels anyway.

[raykay]

Originally Posted by ceedy

On a similar line ... ref the bit I'm going to try.

Found some info for another Window closer that is very very similar, might even just be the plastic box thats different.

As with the door locking, the window switches are not connected to the window motors as in most cases, they are inputs to the BCU, the BCU then controls the windows.

[NOCTURNAL]

I've had this in the to-do list since I had the car two years ago, but only just started thinking about it more recently, and had gone along the same rout proposed above re duplicating the micro-switch in the door lock.

Initially I was going to 'short' the window switches for 7 seconds with the locking pulse, but the windows being still powered after key removal is halted once the doors are opened hence the decision to try the above.

Only thing stopping me was knowing wether indeed it was a simple switch or sent a specific code to the bcu..

So a timed hold on of approx 7 secs would raise the windows if the lazy micro switch in the door was was shorted... does that sound right RayKay? pink brown ----gnd

it also locks the car too, , although it would already be locked from the fob press.

Would this method also be ok for operating the mirrors to close (by simply parrallel shorting of the mirror parking switch as long as carried out within the power-to-mirror-switch -off delay-time ??
Or does 'locking' the car end this power-off-delay anyway?

Nick

[raykay]

Originally Posted by NOCTURNAL

Only thing stopping me was knowing wether indeed it was a simple switch or sent a specific code to the bcu..

So a timed hold on of approx 7 secs would raise the windows if the lazy micro switch in the door was was shorted... does that sound right RayKay? pink brown ----gnd



Would this method also be ok for operating the mirrors to close (by simply parrallel shorting of the mirror parking switch as long as carried out within the power-to-mirror-switch -off delay-time ??
Or does 'locking' the car end this power-off-delay anyway?Nick

For the windows I would do it in a similar way as Raistlin is considering, a relay operating for as long as you pressed the button (as you would turn the key) , rather than a timer.



The powerfold mirrors are a bit different as the electronics are in the switch itself to control the output to the mirrors, I don't think it would be as easy to operate remotely.

[ceedy]

Just a thought.... does Speed locking need to be considered , if using the lock switch ...?

You don't want to start off with all the windows open on that nice sunny day.. and then at 4 mph ...Clunk!, and all the windows shut


Chris

[NOCTURNAL]

Thanks, I wnated to stay away from extra fobs as my keys end up cluttered as it is

So I am aiming to try and do it using standard fob... Chris seems to have a purpouse built interface that might do the job, but a timed held on relay would suit my purpous as I simply want "total-closure" Like it should have had from the factory really...

I have no need to be able to actually want the partial venting etc so would be a one way deal for me and timed relay would simulate the key being held long enough for the windows to close , as long as I havve the pink/brown----gnd part correct.

I have been meaning to ask you for months but never got around to it

The windows I was definately going to just short the window park button, but was gutted when it stopped for any door open (this applies to the windows too, but the venting option gets around this problem.

I wanted to use the switch if possible so that all of the usual checks/limits were still in cct rather than simply powering the motors.

All this said, if Chris' unit works out I can allways sort the mirror park from the acc. cct. just would have preferde the fob

Cheers, Nick

[ceedy]

Not having a wiring diag to give me a start, still searching for info..

Came across this sheet for a 75 aftermarket alarm with includes a closer module .. and mentions quite a few cables/colours.. so might us a clue..