Steering column won't go back in.... - Page 3

Supervinnie40 · 21st March 2018, 18:43

*update

I just decided this is not the right time to start fusing about it all. So I disconnected the steering column, disconnected all tie rods.
This way I can start all over again tomorrow.

Step 1. Connect the tie rods on both ends with 10 rotations (regardless of alignment)
Step 2. Make sure both wheels are (mis)aligned in the same way (this should put the steering rack in the center??)
Step 3. Drop car onto its wheels
Step 4. connect the steering column and keep an eye on the position of the steering wheel
Step 5. Put steering wheel in perfect center position
Step 6. Check wheel alignment and see how much adjusting they need.

rustymotor · 21st March 2018, 18:52

Change the nut not bolt was a recommendation from the manual that's all. Great have a rest

Supervinnie40 · 21st March 2018, 18:56

Thanks. I didn't mean to sound like a smartass

lol. I was just a bit confused on why it mattered. But you are right, seeing as the part I'm working on is very important, it wouldn't hurt to replace it with a new one.

rustymotor · 21st March 2018, 19:01

Hi, it was the silly Haynes manual good for pictures

slovcan · 21st March 2018, 23:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supervinnie40

*update

I just decided this is not the right time to start fusing about it all. So I disconnected the steering column, disconnected all tie rods.
This way I can start all over again tomorrow.

Step 1. Connect the tie rods on both ends with 10 rotations (regardless of alignment)
Step 2. Make sure both wheels are (mis)aligned in the same way (this should put the steering rack in the center??)
Step 3. Drop car onto its wheels
Step 4. connect the steering column and keep an eye on the position of the steering wheel
Step 5. Put steering wheel in perfect center position
Step 6. Check wheel alignment and see how much adjusting they need.

Hi Vinnie,

I would still carry out the steps I suggested in post #16 before moving on to the steps you list above. Whatever you do with the tie rods will do nothing to centre the rack. You could end up only being able to steer one full turn to the left and two full turns to the right. And don't get stuck on having 10 rotations on each tie rod/track rod. Set however many rotations are required to have the wheels point straight ahead with no toe in or toe out while the rack is still set in the centre position that you already put it in. Then move the rack shaft the least amount possible to mount the steering column so the steering wheel is centred. Then the wheels need to be re-adjusted with the tie rods/track rods so they are positioned straight ahead. Then get a wheel alignment.

Now, the monkey wrench in all this is: what was done to the steering rack, steering column or steering wheel before you got the car? Didn't you mention something about the wrong part number rack being on it? Anyway, I said what I would do. If after getting all that done and the wheels are straight ahead and the steering rack itself is positioned in the centre (regarding turns lock-to-lock) and I found the steering wheel was way off centre, I would remove the steering wheel and re-position it to centre. This would be my last step before the actual computer or laser wheel alignment.

That's my 2 cents worth. Make of it what you will.

Cheers,
Glenn

Supervinnie40 · 22nd March 2018, 04:52

Thanks Glenn, appreciate the advice.
The steering rack was removed because it started leaking heavily. I asked RimmerBross and they confirmed what part I should get: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=280372 . I ended up with an item that should be new with the correct part number (although the part kinda didn't look as I expected): https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=280777

I installed the steering rack 2 days ago. Luckily for me it can go in one way. Before installing I visually compared the old and new one, and they looked identical. However, I did not check it the part that connects with the steering column (the pointy bit) was in the same position when moving around the tie rods.

I did not type it into my previous post, but I did centre the steering rack when I disconnected everything yesterday. I did this by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then back to the right, counting the rotations. Think it was 4.5 turns? I then rotated the steering wheel back 2.25 turns. I did not yet check if the steering wheel was upright at this time, but it is easy enough to re-check this evening before I do anything else. This should have put the steering rack back in the center position? This evening I can connect the tie rods and the steering column. If your advice is correct, it should leave me with a steering wheel pointing straight ahead and 2 wheels facing straight ahead (fingers crossed).

rustymotor · 22nd March 2018, 06:24

HI, when you get the wheels squared up and the steering column back in, you can use a string line similar to those used by a brick layer between rear and front wheels gives you a reasonable idea to track then if you like have it tracked at a garage.

Supervinnie40 · 22nd March 2018, 06:59

That is pretty nifty trick

. Thanks for that.

slovcan · 22nd March 2018, 11:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supervinnie40

Thanks Glenn, appreciate the advice.
The steering rack was removed because it started leaking heavily. I asked RimmerBross and they confirmed what part I should get: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=280372 . I ended up with an item that should be new with the correct part number (although the part kinda didn't look as I expected): https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=280777

I installed the steering rack 2 days ago. Luckily for me it can go in one way. Before installing I visually compared the old and new one, and they looked identical. However, I did not check it the part that connects with the steering column (the pointy bit) was in the same position when moving around the tie rods.

I did not type it into my previous post, but I did centre the steering rack when I disconnected everything yesterday. I did this by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then back to the right, counting the rotations. Think it was 4.5 turns? I then rotated the steering wheel back 2.25 turns. I did not yet check if the steering wheel was upright at this time, but it is easy enough to re-check this evening before I do anything else. This should have put the steering rack back in the center position? This evening I can connect the tie rods and the steering column. If your advice is correct, it should leave me with a steering wheel pointing straight ahead and 2 wheels facing straight ahead (fingers crossed).

Sounds good. One question, though, is the ratio really that slow on the 75 - 4.5 turns lock to lock? You sure it's not 3.5 turns making centre 1.75?

Cheers,
Glenn

Supervinnie40 · 22nd March 2018, 11:24

I don't fully remember how much it was. It was very cold and it had been a long day

. But for good measure, I'm gonna repeat that step tonight anyway. I'll to write it down so I won't forget.

21st March 2018, 18:43	#21
Supervinnie40 I really should get out more....... Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tilburg (Netherland) Posts: 2,614 Thanks: 572 Thanked 336 Times in 247 Posts	*update I just decided this is not the right time to start fusing about it all. So I disconnected the steering column, disconnected all tie rods. This way I can start all over again tomorrow. Step 1. Connect the tie rods on both ends with 10 rotations (regardless of alignment) Step 2. Make sure both wheels are (mis)aligned in the same way (this should put the steering rack in the center??) Step 3. Drop car onto its wheels Step 4. connect the steering column and keep an eye on the position of the steering wheel Step 5. Put steering wheel in perfect center position Step 6. Check wheel alignment and see how much adjusting they need. __________________ Proud owner of the Dutch "Golden 75". A much loved Gold White Metallic Rover 75 1.8 na from 2000.

21st March 2018, 18:56	#23
Supervinnie40 I really should get out more....... Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tilburg (Netherland) Posts: 2,614 Thanks: 572 Thanked 336 Times in 247 Posts	Thanks. I didn't mean to sound like a smartass lol. I was just a bit confused on why it mattered. But you are right, seeing as the part I'm working on is very important, it wouldn't hurt to replace it with a new one. __________________ Proud owner of the Dutch "Golden 75". A much loved Gold White Metallic Rover 75 1.8 na from 2000.

22nd March 2018, 04:52	#26
Supervinnie40 I really should get out more....... Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tilburg (Netherland) Posts: 2,614 Thanks: 572 Thanked 336 Times in 247 Posts	Thanks Glenn, appreciate the advice. The steering rack was removed because it started leaking heavily. I asked RimmerBross and they confirmed what part I should get: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=280372 . I ended up with an item that should be new with the correct part number (although the part kinda didn't look as I expected): https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=280777 I installed the steering rack 2 days ago. Luckily for me it can go in one way. Before installing I visually compared the old and new one, and they looked identical. However, I did not check it the part that connects with the steering column (the pointy bit) was in the same position when moving around the tie rods. I did not type it into my previous post, but I did centre the steering rack when I disconnected everything yesterday. I did this by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then back to the right, counting the rotations. Think it was 4.5 turns? I then rotated the steering wheel back 2.25 turns. I did not yet check if the steering wheel was upright at this time, but it is easy enough to re-check this evening before I do anything else. This should have put the steering rack back in the center position? This evening I can connect the tie rods and the steering column. If your advice is correct, it should leave me with a steering wheel pointing straight ahead and 2 wheels facing straight ahead (fingers crossed). __________________ Proud owner of the Dutch "Golden 75". A much loved Gold White Metallic Rover 75 1.8 na from 2000.

22nd March 2018, 06:59	#28
Supervinnie40 I really should get out more....... Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tilburg (Netherland) Posts: 2,614 Thanks: 572 Thanked 336 Times in 247 Posts	That is pretty nifty trick . Thanks for that. __________________ Proud owner of the Dutch "Golden 75". A much loved Gold White Metallic Rover 75 1.8 na from 2000.

22nd March 2018, 11:24	#30
Supervinnie40 I really should get out more....... Rover 75 1.8 Club Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Tilburg (Netherland) Posts: 2,614 Thanks: 572 Thanked 336 Times in 247 Posts	I don't fully remember how much it was. It was very cold and it had been a long day . But for good measure, I'm gonna repeat that step tonight anyway. I'll to write it down so I won't forget. __________________ Proud owner of the Dutch "Golden 75". A much loved Gold White Metallic Rover 75 1.8 na from 2000.

21st March 2018, 18:52	#22
rustymotor Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017 Location: Hull Posts: 1,848 Thanks: 216 Thanked 432 Times in 340 Posts	Change the nut not bolt was a recommendation from the manual that's all. Great have a rest

21st March 2018, 19:01	#24
rustymotor Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017 Location: Hull Posts: 1,848 Thanks: 216 Thanked 432 Times in 340 Posts	Hi, it was the silly Haynes manual good for pictures

22nd March 2018, 06:24	#27
rustymotor Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017 Location: Hull Posts: 1,848 Thanks: 216 Thanked 432 Times in 340 Posts	HI, when you get the wheels squared up and the steering column back in, you can use a string line similar to those used by a brick layer between rear and front wheels gives you a reasonable idea to track then if you like have it tracked at a garage.