Power supply to split charge relay

[Kingfisher26]

Hi again, I've now fitted my tow bar and am ready to start on the wiring. I am fitting a bypass and a split charge relay and together they require 3 power supplies from the battery. I have seen posts where members have routed the cable underneath the car, however I would like to run them inside if possible. My question is where can I bring the wires into the car from the battery? I can't see a loom going through the bulkhead anywhere? As always any advice gratefully received. Jim

[Kingfisher26]

Anybody got any advice?

[cb750chris]

I ran the main power feed for my towbar from front to back, then split out for a bypass relay &split charge relay in the boot.
This meant I only had to run 1 big power cable through the car, as I used a voltage sensing relay for the split charge relay.
To do this, you can use the orange and grey wire that runs through the bulkhead, and is taped up by the passenger fuse box, and under bonnet fuse box (This is the wire rover originally put in, for connecting up the towing electrics)

[RPWC]

There is a slot in the glovebox fusebox, that is permanant live, its accessed by fitting a male spad connector on the end, and run it under the carpet retaining trim, then under the inner wheel arch cover next to the back seat, then in to the boot. Thats what I did when I had my saloon, for the s c relay,didnt have a bypass relay fitted ,as it didnt have parking sensors fitted.

[cb750chris]

Just to note, following on from the comment from Rich,
Check the fuse that feeds the slot you are tapping out of, in the fusebox - both in terms of capacity & functions. There is no point tapping off of something too capacity wise, and the last thing you want is to blow a fuse that stops the car somewhere inconvenient.
For lights only, you are probably only looking at 10 Amps (dual fogs, brakes, and indicators all running at once)
If charging the battery as well, it is possible to draw a lot more amps, possibly up to 30 in total if the battery is low, and the fridge is on?

[RPWC]

Originally Posted by cb750chris

Just to note, following on from the comment from Rich,
Check the fuse that feeds the slot you are tapping out of, in the fusebox - both in terms of capacity & functions. There is no point tapping off of something too capacity wise, and the last thing you want is to blow a fuse that stops the car somewhere inconvenient.
For lights only, you are probably only looking at 10 Amps (dual fogs, brakes, and indicators all running at once)
If charging the battery as well, it is possible to draw a lot more amps, possibly up to 30 in total if the battery is low, and the fridge is on?

Chris it’s not actually a fuse its a live port the live wire from the relay will need an inline fuse fitted to it. I think a 15 or 20 amp was fitted but I could be wrong.