Rear back plate removal - How to?

Richard1973 · 25th August 2015, 16:39

Just been using the search facility to see if there is a 'How to' for rear back plate removal. I have the usual issue of holes rusted through and MOT coming up in a few weeks. I am going to order one from Matt, but just looking to see how to do it. Does the hub carrier have to come off, and whats the situation with the handbrake cable?

RogerHeinz57 · 25th August 2015, 22:59

Hi, the answer to this is a variable one, mainly due to weather or not the hand brake cable will release from the back plate ferrule. Usually it's not worth all the messing around to try as they are usually seized fairly well. So although the list of stuff to do seems silly, it will probably be worth getting this kit together to do the job in one go, this info is based on experience in replacing many back plates, so those who decide to either criticise me or my advice need to base their ideas on facts rather than the arm chair view based on never doing this exercise!

Tooling will be- 32mm socket to remove the hub nut with a good breaker bar.
Good allen key bit set to undo back plate to rear stub.
TX 55 torx bit to remove the disc. Good 13mm or 1/2" spanner for the caliper carrier bolts (Usually over tightened by **** garage work).
Range of sockets / spanners for other bits needing removal.
TX 25 socket to remove compensator cover on inner tunnel, and a mix of pliers screwdrivers and plenty of patience.
Parts: Back plate, brake cleaner, plus gas, new hand brake cable and possibly a compensator refurbished by either Arctic or harrymybt. And a shoe fitting kit.

Follow the how to for replacing a compensator, but also replace the cable to the offending back plate from the tunnel after gaining access from under the car after removing the rear heat shield securing screws, unclip the cable from the securing clips and fit the replacement in to the tunnel, re-fit items removed from the compensator change. Now remove the wheel, disc tx55 screw followed by the caliper carrier bolts. Tie up the caliper to avoid damage to the flexi brake hose. Tap off the hub nut cover and un-stake the hub nut with a chisel and hammer and then remove the 32mm nut (This will be fairly tight). Gently remove the hub from the stub and place in a clean area. Strip down the brake shoe mechanism and place in order ready for re-fitting.
Now make a start on the 4 hex cap bolts found on the back plate, these are usually ok to undo without any problems. This has now set the back plate and cable free and simply pull away noting the route the cable runs, yes it will pull through that hole! Now that the items are cleared, time to fit up the new bits. Ensure all surfaces are clean, ensuring no rust or paint flakes can disturb the abs sensor! Feed the cable in, and route the same way the original came off right up to the point of clipping back in to the holder clips. Re-secure the 4 cap bolts, apply the copper based grease to the Rub Sections of the back plate. De-glaze the shoes assuming they are serviceable and re assemble the shoes mechanism, ensuring the lower spreader that the cable hooks in to has no seizure or problems in movement, apply a snot of grease to the hinged area of this to keep it sweet. Make some basic adjustment using the star wheel. Re-fit the hub after cleaning the inner seal surface and a small trace of grease to the stub. With the torque wrench apply 210 NM to the nut and stake it properly. Now back on with the disc whils making adjustment for initial drag, this I do when the disc locks on, then a small clout with a hammer to the hub surface once or twice. This will enable you to establish weather the shoes have either adjusted correctly and the drag is genuine, or they have propped on a lip or just propped for the fun of it. When this is completed, re fit all items removed and set the hand brake final adjustment when your happy with the drag setting.
I hope this goes towards helping you in this, it is a pants job to do the first time round, but teaches you a lot on how some parts of this car work.
If I have missed something, or you wish to gain further assistance on this, I am happy to advise further,but this is a fair description of how I have done plenty. The parts costs may be a bit more, but the time you will save is quite a thing, so worth it in my opinion.
PM me for more help if you need it!
Kind regards, The Cardinal.

David Lawrence · 26th August 2015, 02:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard1973

Just been using the search facility to see if there is a 'How to' for rear back plate removal. I have the usual issue of holes rusted through and MOT coming up in a few weeks. I am going to order one from Matt, but just looking to see how to do it. Does the hub carrier have to come off, and whats the situation with the handbrake cable?

This any good?

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&d=1398099788

Richard1973 · 26th August 2015, 21:48

Brilliant. Thanks chaps. Going to get the bits ordered and then tackle it.

25th August 2015, 16:39	#1
Richard1973 Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon CDTi Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Mansfield Posts: 287 Thanks: 18 Thanked 69 Times in 52 Posts	Rear back plate removal - How to? Just been using the search facility to see if there is a 'How to' for rear back plate removal. I have the usual issue of holes rusted through and MOT coming up in a few weeks. I am going to order one from Matt, but just looking to see how to do it. Does the hub carrier have to come off, and whats the situation with the handbrake cable?

25th August 2015, 22:59	#2
RogerHeinz57 I really should get out more....... A Reasonably Priced Car Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Burton Latimer Posts: 2,530 Thanks: 408 Thanked 1,064 Times in 712 Posts	Hi, the answer to this is a variable one, mainly due to weather or not the hand brake cable will release from the back plate ferrule. Usually it's not worth all the messing around to try as they are usually seized fairly well. So although the list of stuff to do seems silly, it will probably be worth getting this kit together to do the job in one go, this info is based on experience in replacing many back plates, so those who decide to either criticise me or my advice need to base their ideas on facts rather than the arm chair view based on never doing this exercise! Tooling will be- 32mm socket to remove the hub nut with a good breaker bar. Good allen key bit set to undo back plate to rear stub. TX 55 torx bit to remove the disc. Good 13mm or 1/2" spanner for the caliper carrier bolts (Usually over tightened by **** garage work). Range of sockets / spanners for other bits needing removal. TX 25 socket to remove compensator cover on inner tunnel, and a mix of pliers screwdrivers and plenty of patience. Parts: Back plate, brake cleaner, plus gas, new hand brake cable and possibly a compensator refurbished by either Arctic or harrymybt. And a shoe fitting kit. Follow the how to for replacing a compensator, but also replace the cable to the offending back plate from the tunnel after gaining access from under the car after removing the rear heat shield securing screws, unclip the cable from the securing clips and fit the replacement in to the tunnel, re-fit items removed from the compensator change. Now remove the wheel, disc tx55 screw followed by the caliper carrier bolts. Tie up the caliper to avoid damage to the flexi brake hose. Tap off the hub nut cover and un-stake the hub nut with a chisel and hammer and then remove the 32mm nut (This will be fairly tight). Gently remove the hub from the stub and place in a clean area. Strip down the brake shoe mechanism and place in order ready for re-fitting. Now make a start on the 4 hex cap bolts found on the back plate, these are usually ok to undo without any problems. This has now set the back plate and cable free and simply pull away noting the route the cable runs, yes it will pull through that hole! Now that the items are cleared, time to fit up the new bits. Ensure all surfaces are clean, ensuring no rust or paint flakes can disturb the abs sensor! Feed the cable in, and route the same way the original came off right up to the point of clipping back in to the holder clips. Re-secure the 4 cap bolts, apply the copper based grease to the Rub Sections of the back plate. De-glaze the shoes assuming they are serviceable and re assemble the shoes mechanism, ensuring the lower spreader that the cable hooks in to has no seizure or problems in movement, apply a snot of grease to the hinged area of this to keep it sweet. Make some basic adjustment using the star wheel. Re-fit the hub after cleaning the inner seal surface and a small trace of grease to the stub. With the torque wrench apply 210 NM to the nut and stake it properly. Now back on with the disc whils making adjustment for initial drag, this I do when the disc locks on, then a small clout with a hammer to the hub surface once or twice. This will enable you to establish weather the shoes have either adjusted correctly and the drag is genuine, or they have propped on a lip or just propped for the fun of it. When this is completed, re fit all items removed and set the hand brake final adjustment when your happy with the drag setting. I hope this goes towards helping you in this, it is a pants job to do the first time round, but teaches you a lot on how some parts of this car work. If I have missed something, or you wish to gain further assistance on this, I am happy to advise further,but this is a fair description of how I have done plenty. The parts costs may be a bit more, but the time you will save is quite a thing, so worth it in my opinion. PM me for more help if you need it! Kind regards, The Cardinal.

26th August 2015, 21:48	#4
Richard1973 Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon CDTi Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Mansfield Posts: 287 Thanks: 18 Thanked 69 Times in 52 Posts	Brilliant. Thanks chaps. Going to get the bits ordered and then tackle it.