Disaster - cambelt failure, KV6 heads wanted

[StewartIngram]

Update which seems good news.
I've got the old LH head off, still with the exhaust fitting on. This has enabled me to clamp the exhaust in a Workmate. With 2 breaker bars, I've started undoing the pulley bolts; There seems no other way with the head off as I cannot fit the timing tools. However, whilst struggling, I turned the orange inlet camshaft, only to find a p/no. stamped on it.
LGC106860 - exactly the same as the replacement heads!
So do I need to touch the replacement camshafts? If not I can remove the RH head, and press on with refitting.

[xsport]

stewart you have to use the timing tools to undo or tighten these bolts safely, or you will damage/twist or crack the camshafts. you can use the pins on the front to hold the pulley. there is a half inch square cut into the centre of the tool to use a half inch socket drive in. you should have the tools to hold / undo the rear pulleys as well , so no excuse !! so many of these camshafts get damaged when doing the belts, and you dont want that now do you !! if your camshafts are the same numbers then your in luck. LGC106860 inlet and LGC106870 exhaust. again check that the cam position sensor is in the same position, as it should be if they are identical cams. ...

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

I've got the old LH head off ... With 2 breaker bars, I've started undoing the pulley bolts; There seems no other way with the head off as I cannot fit the timing tools.

Why not?
Use the front sprocket wheel tools with the 2.5 horseshoes fitted to hold the inlet camshaft, then you can undo the sprocket wheel.
Use the rear holding tool whilst loosening the rear sprocket bolts.
As Stefan says, do not hold one end of the camshaft whilst releasing a bolt at the other end.

Originally Posted by StewartIngram

... I turned the orange inlet camshaft, only to find a p/no. stamped on it.
LGC106860 - exactly the same as the replacement heads!
So do I need to touch the replacement camshafts?

I don't know what LGC 106860 is but it is not a reliable part number! I haven't been able to find it in a parts listing for any KV6 variant.

I don't understand why you're not transferring your original cam carriers onto the replacement cylinder heads. That would remove all uncertainty.

Simon

[xsport]

another thing that does not look correct is the timing kit. looking at the photos of the horseshoes the pin position offsets appear to look the same on both sets of 2.0 and 2.5. i have checked on my set of AST tools on the 2,5 horseshoes and mine are as simon in effect says : that both pins on both horseshoes for 2.5 are pretty much in the same position on all 4 pins from the edge of the horseshoes. it looks to me that on both of your sets stewart, the pins are positioned in the same places. (offset) however it does not mean that they are wrong as the horseshoe dimensions themselves may be different to the original tools sizes. they are as simon has suggested , a cheap chinese copy. lets hope they work ok.

[trikey]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I don't understand why you're not transferring your original cam carriers onto the replacement cylinder heads. That would remove all uncertainty.

Simon

They are line bored with the head, if you fit a different carrier you will not have the correct tolerances when the carrier is torqued down.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by trikey

They are line bored with the head ...

Thanks for this Andy (RAVE 12-3-12 if anyone's interested).
Stewart could try it couldn't he, and if the fixing holes align then I can't see a problem, can you?
If they don't align, he can transfer his original camshafts to the second-hand head/carrier assembly.

Are you aware of a warning elsewhere in RAVE not to fit a different cam carrier?

Thanks.

Simon

[StewartIngram]

I had a little accident with the old camshaft that I was stripping out, dropped it and broke the end anyway. As all p/nos. match up across old and new I'm putting the new heads on. Just a query about oil seals though.
DMGRS have supplied 4x front with 4x rear. they are different but of similar design; a plastic ring with an internal spring. The old front one was a black plastic cone shape (more like Tommy Coopers hat!). They say the ones supplied are an improved design which shouldn't pop out like the old ones are prone to.
What are the fitting instruction for these? Which way round, any lubrication or sealant, how do I press them in? I've emailed Matt yesterday but not had a reply.
For reference, these are the p/no.:-
Front LUC100150 (old)
LUC100290 (new)
Rear LUC100220 (old & new)
Confusingly, DMGRS list 4xF.(LUC100290, but state LUC100150 is replaced by LUC100220 !); the 4xR are listed as LUC100220. I'm guessing that is a typo.

[dave lincs]

Originally Posted by trikey

They are line bored with the head, if you fit a different carrier you will not have the correct tolerances when the carrier is torqued down.

That is correct Andy you must not use a different cam carrier you must use the one that came with the head

[dave lincs]

I don't understand why you're not transferring your original cam carriers onto the replacement cylinder heads. That would remove all uncertainty.

Simon[/QUOTE]

It is quite simple Simon as Andy says they are line bored so cannot be swapped over

[xsport]

andy was referring mainly to the fact that the old carriers were worn into the old camshafts. Whilst fitting a brand new camshafts you may reduce some play but its not ideal so i would imagine used ones may be a step too far matched to used carriers. the old seals were red and black for the different ends of the cams. i have a set of each and fortunately have not had cause as yet to fit them. the cam numbers appear online in older car versions of zs and freelander and they seemed to be quite numerous. why those numbers have disappeared from the superseed parts is a mystery. even on stewarts car .. they were the numbers so its a little confusing as to why. oh and when you do tighten up that pulley wheel with the allen capped bolt, i took mine off again after nipping up, and tightened in a vice. it is a little awkward to tighten on the car due to the belt, but add some locktight first. i fitted the front tensioner unit bolt first before fitting the second, and just pivoted it away first before refitting the second, after recompressing the piston again in the vice, and inserting the pin. whichever way you do it , as long as the clearance is correct it should be fine. all of the instructions are in rave as you have a copy.... fingers crossed for you stewart , and dont drop another camshaft !!