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Old 19th May 2021, 21:06   #11
trikey
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Originally Posted by squire View Post
I wonder how many more are the same? Most of the support bracket for the cooler has rotted away, I think it's held up by the pipes more than anything, something else to sort out . Btw Andy, have you got any spare brake pad sensors with a decent bit of wire? Want to make up a couple of bridging connectors.
I have one! Drop me a PM with your address and ill get it sent to you.
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Old 19th May 2021, 21:28   #12
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Originally Posted by squire View Post
Tbh I don't know how long mine has been like it. Only noticed it trying to put the low pads warning light out!
If you've got Toaf you can disable the warning light without having to go outside in the rain. Mine is disabled as I've got non-standard BMW pads in the rear, I swop tyres (summer/winter) twice a year so plenty of chances to inspect visually.

Regards
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Old 19th May 2021, 21:28   #13
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I have one! Drop me a PM with your address and ill get it sent to you.
Cheers Andy, you're a star. PM on it's way.

Martyn.
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Old 19th May 2021, 23:04   #14
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Default Earth on cooler

The earth wire is connected to the cooler it's self one of the first things i discovered when i first bought my blue tourer back in 2010.

1

2

Only touched and it broke free.
3

Cut the wire back and added a new earth wire to the point, the scotch lock was later replaced with another connector and some heat shrink.
4

Martin.
Make up a couple of these one for the front and one for the rear, twist wire together.
1

add a little heat shrink
2

3

Then heat it onto the end.
4

replace these with yours and the light should go out, always best to check the pads at least twice a year by removing the wheel and checking.
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Old 19th May 2021, 23:58   #15
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Two of mine have the earth wire problem and I've seen it on others, all at the eyelet under the socket headed bolt on the cooler, possibly due to galvanic action.


Every time I see them I think " I must get round to fixing that ", till the next time comes.


Oddly enough, being a nosy B, I have never checked if it does actually cool the fuel, or in fact looked to see how it works, yes it's basically a simple radiator, but the bit of plumbing and wiring intrigues me, must investigate further when I've nowt to do, I'll take the one off the scrapper / donor car and see what makesit tick.



Most of the support bracket for the cooler has rotted away,



I wonder how many still have intact, the odd shaped plastic protector / deflector that was pop riveted onto the lower arm ?


One of mine has still got it, but the two brackets are nearly rusted through, so I might make a couple of stainless ones, the other one vanished years ago.
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Old 20th May 2021, 06:40   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
The earth wire is connected to the cooler it's self one of the first things i discovered when i first bought my blue tourer back in 2010.

1

2

Only touched and it broke free.
3

Cut the wire back and added a new earth wire to the point, the scotch lock was later replaced with another connector and some heat shrink.
4

Martin.
Make up a couple of these one for the front and one for the rear, twist wire together.
1

add a little heat shrink
2

3

Then heat it onto the end.
4

replace these with yours and the light should go out, always best to check the pads at least twice a year by removing the wheel and checking.

Hi Steve,
Thanks for your replies, in picture one the stub with the socket screw has corroded away by about 60% so I have to be careful there cleaning up the corrosion and replacing the socket screw with a longer hex head screw with a nut to lock it down. Then find a suitable earth point or drill a small hole into the spare wheel well and use a self tapper. Got to also look at getting some extra support for the cooler as most of not all of the bracket has rotted away, may have to be cable tied temporarily.

Regarding the brake pad sensors I had the back bypassed but the wires were broken just as they go into the plug, had to hack back of the plug away to try and solder them, it wasn't a very good job but worked but may have let go. Trikey is sending me a spare plug to make a bypass as I don't have any until I have time to troll round any breakers.
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Old 20th May 2021, 06:44   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
If you've got Toaf you can disable the warning light without having to go outside in the rain. Mine is disabled as I've got non-standard BMW pads in the rear, I swop tyres (summer/winter) twice a year so plenty of chances to inspect visually.

Regards
Sadly I don't have Toaf, even if I did I wouldn't trust myself, I don't get on with computers, only use a tablet as and when I have to. If T4 can disable it I can get that done in the near future.
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Old 20th May 2021, 09:05   #18
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I can remember talking to David Lawrence about these fuel coolers and the brackets, also the thermostat which can be got from a FL1 link below for those interested.

Pattern for new brackets in the same thread.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...=206832&page=4
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Old 20th May 2021, 09:12   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squire View Post
I changed rear pads, discs and handbrake shoes about a year ago, the sensor wires broke very close to where they come out of the plug, I had to cut some of the plug away to solder them together so it's here the problem might lie. If it's dry tomorrow I'll try and check it with a meter for continuity and maybe see if I can find a scrap yard with some 75's/ZT's in to see if can get some better ones with a bit more wire attached so I can solder the wires together better.

It's been fine until yesterday coming back from Wales, half way back the light came on , I've had a quick look and unplugged it a couple of times but I may not have plugged it in far enough, will have to get the car up on axle stands.
Hi Martyn take the drivers side boot side carpet out and you'll see were the grommit is for the brake warning cable by the wheel arch just cut and join it there in the boot

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Last edited by sewerman; 20th May 2021 at 09:35..
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Old 20th May 2021, 10:17   #20
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Hi Martyn take the drivers side boot side carpet out and you'll see were the grommit is for the brake warning cable by the wheel arch just cut and join it there in the boot

Sent from my SM-G977B using Tapatalk
Thanks Scott,
Temporarily done for now, just waiting for an old sensor from Trikey then I'll do a better job.
In actual fact it's the front one that's gone, as yet I've not looked to see why, I've never changed the front one so I expect it's just given up. Rain stopped play before I could get the front wheel off

See you Sunday, will text you when I'm ready to leave

Martyn
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