bonnet/bumper shutline adjustment

pondweed · 12th November 2006, 16:26

has anyone got any actual measurements for what is desirable/achieveable? I have only started looking at the shutline now I've put the bumper back on, and it now looks too large although I read the How to - very good - and adjusted according to the notes there.
I did wonder how one is able to move the bumper UP... the bolts along the top edge dont seem to account for this.
Are some people using spacers underneath the plastic panel and if so, what spec?

GreyGhost · 12th November 2006, 16:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by pondweed

has anyone got any actual measurements for what is desirable/achieveable? I have only started looking at the shutline now I've put the bumper back on, and it now looks too large although I read the How to - very good - and adjusted according to the notes there.
I did wonder how one is able to move the bumper UP... the bolts along the top edge dont seem to account for this.
Are some people using spacers underneath the plastic panel and if so, what spec?

Spacers are in my case galvanised washers. Can't remember exactly, I think it was five on the two centre fixings down to two on the outers.
There aren't any measurments as such, I think as much as you can get out of it is the best you can hope for.
I had someone insert washers while I lifted the bumper, took a few goes before I was satisfied.

Christopher · 12th November 2006, 16:45

Silly point Grey Ghost, but is there any benefit to using non-metal washers to try and stave of local rusting at these point?? I need to adjust teh shutline on mine and am thinking that what you describe above is the only way for me as I have no more play using the existing "settings".

Cheers

GreyGhost · 12th November 2006, 16:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christopher

Silly point Grey Ghost, but is there any benefit to using non-metal washers to try and stave of local rusting at these point?? I need to adjust teh shutline on mine and am thinking that what you describe above is the only way for me as I have no more play using the existing "settings".

Cheers

I have to admit that galvanised washers were used because that is what was to hand. Thinking about it now it was not the best choice.

Keith · 12th November 2006, 20:39

Jon most of the adjustment should be done by the bolts holding the alloy cross member that the slam panel bolts on to if fitted correctly washers should not be necessary imho

pondweed · 13th November 2006, 13:45

ahhh... very interesting. An alternative school!
So, do I surmise from this that, iyho, the alloy cross member should just be pulled as high as it can go before being tightened... and that it, with gravity, can slip a bit over time causing people to find other avenues to solve this problem?
Surely the cross member couldnt be, by default, suggested as a trimming device as it is a stage further back in the process! If so it would seem frightfully inefficient...taking bumper on and off and resetting the member?

Christopher · 13th November 2006, 13:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith

Jon most of the adjustment should be done by the bolts holding the alloy cross member that the slam panel bolts on to if fitted correctly washers should not be necessary imho

Can you expand on "alloy cross-member" please? where/what does that look like??

Cheers

Keith · 13th November 2006, 14:21

This thing

The slam panel the bumper bolts to is sandwiched behind it so I reckon (I could be totally wrong) that if the slam panel was fitted at the right height in the first place (assuming there is some flexibility there) then washers will not be required or at at least fewer of them

Keith · 13th November 2006, 14:24

Jon chances are early in the production procees either tollerances were tighter or maybe a few trial fits adjusting in between was performed to get the shut line as good as poss during assembly

Maybe later the lob it on approach was adopted to save time and money?

The ideal way to get a good fit imho is to buy a bumper from the Breakers then cut the front and bottom off so the crossmember bolt can be reached then you can adjust to your hearts content

Christopher · 13th November 2006, 14:27

Thanks Keith. But is that monster adjustable? I assumed not - which means it is an academic argument! yes?!

12th November 2006, 16:26	#1
pondweed This is my second home Waiter, Waiter! I seem to have a Roomster in my drive... Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sussex Posts: 3,268 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	bonnet/bumper shutline adjustment has anyone got any actual measurements for what is desirable/achieveable? I have only started looking at the shutline now I've put the bumper back on, and it now looks too large although I read the How to - very good - and adjusted according to the notes there. I did wonder how one is able to move the bumper UP... the bolts along the top edge dont seem to account for this. Are some people using spacers underneath the plastic panel and if so, what spec?

12th November 2006, 16:45	#3
Christopher Owners Club Director Rover 75 V6 Copperleaf Red, MG ZTT 190+ Lagoon & Early MGF Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Rugby Posts: 9,287 Thanks: 105 Thanked 343 Times in 81 Posts	Silly point Grey Ghost, but is there any benefit to using non-metal washers to try and stave of local rusting at these point?? I need to adjust teh shutline on mine and am thinking that what you describe above is the only way for me as I have no more play using the existing "settings". Cheers __________________ Christopher in banana veritas

13th November 2006, 14:24	#9
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	Jon chances are early in the production procees either tollerances were tighter or maybe a few trial fits adjusting in between was performed to get the shut line as good as poss during assembly Maybe later the lob it on approach was adopted to save time and money? The ideal way to get a good fit imho is to buy a bumper from the Breakers then cut the front and bottom off so the crossmember bolt can be reached then you can adjust to your hearts content Last edited by Keith; 13th November 2006 at 14:26..

13th November 2006, 14:27	#10
Christopher Owners Club Director Rover 75 V6 Copperleaf Red, MG ZTT 190+ Lagoon & Early MGF Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Rugby Posts: 9,287 Thanks: 105 Thanked 343 Times in 81 Posts	Thanks Keith. But is that monster adjustable? I assumed not - which means it is an academic argument! yes?! __________________ Christopher in banana veritas

12th November 2006, 20:39	#5
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	Jon most of the adjustment should be done by the bolts holding the alloy cross member that the slam panel bolts on to if fitted correctly washers should not be necessary imho

13th November 2006, 13:45	#6
pondweed This is my second home Waiter, Waiter! I seem to have a Roomster in my drive... Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sussex Posts: 3,268 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	ahhh... very interesting. An alternative school! So, do I surmise from this that, iyho, the alloy cross member should just be pulled as high as it can go before being tightened... and that it, with gravity, can slip a bit over time causing people to find other avenues to solve this problem? Surely the cross member couldnt be, by default, suggested as a trimming device as it is a stage further back in the process! If so it would seem frightfully inefficient...taking bumper on and off and resetting the member?

13th November 2006, 14:21	#8
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	This thing The slam panel the bumper bolts to is sandwiched behind it so I reckon (I could be totally wrong) that if the slam panel was fitted at the right height in the first place (assuming there is some flexibility there) then washers will not be required or at at least fewer of them