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Old 21st February 2009, 22:38   #21
Jules
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I would imagine the production costs would be far more than that unless they were made in the 100's
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Old 23rd February 2009, 19:53   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by workaholic_ro View Post
Found the link. I'm pretty sure that no one except me will try it before I'll announce that it worked (let's say...in five years ) but just in case you want to take a look:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...ced+thermostat
Hi Fidel,

Perhaps you will be followed sooner than you think. I have visited the website of Poxilina, and it is very interesting if my metal thermostat housing project proves to be undoable for me. I am following a dual line on the moment, and investigate on both Kaisers and you solution.

On the Poxilina site I saw at the specs that the maximum temperature is 80 degrees Celsius, so I am afraid that the engine temp while riding slow in city’s or in traffic jam’s will be a bit on the high site. I have dropped them an email if they have also other more heat resistant stuff. No reply yet, so I’ll be waiting for that now.

When your modified thermostat was fitted I recon you kept an eye op it from time to time. How long in km/miles and time ago did you fit it, and how does is look now? Is it heat resistant enough? And are there any tip and tricks when using this stuff?

Rob.
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Old 24th February 2009, 10:38   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robwijnstok View Post
Hi Fidel,

Perhaps you will be followed sooner than you think. I have visited the website of Poxilina, and it is very interesting if my metal thermostat housing project proves to be undoable for me. I am following a dual line on the moment, and investigate on both Kaisers and you solution.

On the Poxilina site I saw at the specs that the maximum temperature is 80 degrees Celsius, so I am afraid that the engine temp while riding slow in city’s or in traffic jam’s will be a bit on the high site. I have dropped them an email if they have also other more heat resistant stuff. No reply yet, so I’ll be waiting for that now.

When your modified thermostat was fitted I recon you kept an eye op it from time to time. How long in km/miles and time ago did you fit it, and how does is look now? Is it heat resistant enough? And are there any tip and tricks when using this stuff?

Rob.
Hi Rob,

It is obvious that a metal housing would be the recommended solution, but due to the complicated shape I decided to abandon the idea and to try this improvisation which was very cheap and not time consuming. I know that the epoxy compound is used somewhere around it's limits if not beyond it, but even if it fails it will not do any harm. No idea in what temperature range it is actually working, it depends on the plastic case thermal resistance and the only test I can do is to estimate the temperature touching the components of the cooling system with my hand. It may be above 80 degrees but definitely not above 100. No problems noticed by now except a slight smell under the bonnet when the engine is hot, but the reinforcing "belt" is only two months old, only time will tell if it will last or not.
A scientific approach would have been to include a small temperature sensor (an ordinary silicon diode) in the resin mass but, honestly, I didn't think about it at that moment.
That would tell how far the external temperature of the thermostat housing goes. Very easy to do it and if there is any member who has the time and the pleasure to experiment I will provide all the necessary information. The principle is very simple, based on the fact that the diode junction voltage is proportional with the temperature and increases by about 2 millivolt per Celsius degree.
I don't know what means their statement "POXILINA® withstands up to 80° C unaltered." According to my experience heated epoxy resins become slightly elastic when "cooked", returning to their normal state when cooled, if anything else happens in their chemical structure I don't know.
A better alternative is a special heat resistance polyurethane resin, it withstands up to 130° C if properly cured, but it comes in a liquid form, requiring a mold attached to the thermostat housing.
Whatever you'll chose to try feel free to ask any question, I'll try to help with any information within my knowlege range.
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Old 24th February 2009, 11:23   #24
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The temperature of the housing will be around 100 degrees. The water temperature goes up to 105 in traffic, under normal conditions, and there is no reason to expect much less through the plastic.
There can be no doubt that this is hot for many plastics, also the endless heating/cooling fatigues the plastic; the reason we see these types of failures more frequently is, that we are getting to the end of the useful lifespan, about 5 years I guess under such pressure and temperature conditions.
I am doing the costing for the metal unit at the moment.
If we go ahead we are looking at about 2 weeks.

Last edited by kaiser; 23rd June 2009 at 03:02..
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Old 24th February 2009, 11:52   #25
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Hi Kaiser, agree with Temps you mention.

Interestingly on another thread I posted was this observation:

KV6 verses L series Thermostat comparison


This thought occurred to me while working on my sisters Rover 600 SLDi (90k miles L series engine) which has a similar plastic remote thermostat housing.
I have never seen one of these leak as they probably get more cooling due to their location ........front of engine block.......whereas there must be vast amounts more heat in the V of the KV6.

Many owners have changed an L series thermostat due to Stat failure rather than housing leaking...........unless anyone knows different !
I would imagine the hottest the plastic housing gets on an L series most of the time would be 85-90 Deg.


Another thought from the boiler room for KV6 owners (especially) to check their cooling fans are working on all speeds.
The thermostat housing will probably suffer "Thermal Shock" & leak sooner if for instance the cooling fan only has some speeds missing or just the "failsafe" HIGH speed left.
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Old 24th February 2009, 18:55   #26
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Any one familiar with this stuff? http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
It should be capable to withstand 260°C and does not crimp. It is also attaching to various materials.

Does anyone know what material the thermostat housing is made of, ABS perhaps???
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Old 24th February 2009, 19:12   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robwijnstok View Post
Does anyone know what material the thermostat housing is made of, ABS perhaps???
Don't know what it's made of but ABS has a max temperature of 80 C and melts at 105 C

Russ
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Old 25th February 2009, 08:00   #28
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ABS is high impact resistant and elastic and the thermostat housing is brittle and rigid, it is not ABS.
BTW, the melting temperature is around 180 C, 105 C is too low even for vacuum forming. I have this kind of equipment and some experience with various polymers.
80-85 C as the maximum serving temperature for long time is correct.
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Old 25th February 2009, 11:44   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by workaholic_ro View Post
ABS is high impact resistant and elastic and the thermostat housing is brittle and rigid, it is not ABS.
BTW, the melting temperature is around 180 C, 105 C is too low even for vacuum forming. I have this kind of equipment and some experience with various polymers.
80-85 C as the maximum serving temperature for long time is correct.

Well I'm only going off the tech info.

http://www.dynalabcorp.com/technical_info_abs.asp

Russ
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Old 25th February 2009, 12:10   #30
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I shall have my thermostat checked when I will have the cam belts changed next month. My car has also been loosing some coolant liquid since last summer (all in all: about 1 litre refill since then)
I will mention his thread to the garage manager as well as he quoted me a lot of stuff ranging from hoses to gaskets etc... and did not mention the thermostat...
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