Inlet Manifold and VIS Motors

sebguy87 · 23rd May 2007, 17:20

Hi all,

First of all great site and thanks, have been browsing silently for a while now and it's been a massive help with a number of things. I've finally got the money together to buy a new inlet manifold... the rattle is unbearable!

I paid for the part, but also enquired about replacing the VIS motors as I'm worried that they've burned out. The guy at the local garage says that the VIS motors come included in the assembly. Can anybody confirm that this is usually the case?

Also, does everybody think it's worth paying around £220 to get it fitted?

Can it go awfully wrong with my haynes manual and the correct tools?

Thanks in advance

Kandyman · 23rd May 2007, 17:34

Hi sebguy87,

Glad to see you posting at last

I would of thought that the unit should be fairly easy to swap over as long as you know you way around a spanner, but wait for one of our smart guys to reply

let us know how you get on and the difference you find in power.

Good luck

Keith · 23rd May 2007, 20:34

I didn't think you could buy the manifold without new motors?
Lates may confirm that but if you can buy a genuine brand new manifold less motors I would certainly go that route first and over haul the original motors.

The motors will either be ok or not there is not really a middle ground it will be the switches on the PCB that will most likely need attention, easy to do.
As for £220 to fit it that seems steep for what I think is no more than two hours work max, I personally would diy it

Prometheus · 24th May 2007, 11:44

I changed my manifold about 3 months ago. yes the Vis motors come included in the new manifold and are already secured in place. It's all pretty straight forward.

Remove airbox. Easy
Remove battery box/battery. Done to get some space.
Remove engine cover. Easy
Remove Trhottle body assembly. This is kinda sucky cause there is one hose on there that you can't seem to disconnect on the TB itself maybe somewhere else i just left it connected and put it to the side. (While disconnected give it a good clean !!)

Disconnect lines hoses (maybe even keep track hoses lines and plugs you disconnect)

Remove manifold ( harder 2 bolts at the back are a pain. Need a good ratchet for that.

Top TIP
Check if your due for Sparkplug change. Cause with the manifold off the sparkplugs are easally changed.

Prising the manifold off need a good prybarr for that cause the rubber seals that plug it in the engine are tight on there (you get new ones with your manifold)

Refitting you need pretty stern force to put the manifold on.

And take pictures if you do do it yourself so you know where what goes back when in doubt

Overall impression pretty doable just take it easy and step by step.

i did it with my uncle he's a Mechanic with his own garage (lucky me) A safety net with 30 yrs of auto machanic is pretty nice

Total time 2 hours 30 mins.

Fraser Mitchell · 24th May 2007, 20:55

Replacing this manifold should be reasonable easy for a self-taught mechanic,but I would always take pictures before hand and during to make sure you can see what goes where when putting things back. Digital cameras have now made this very easy. I used to use a Polaroid instant camera (remember them !!). The new Haynes book is quite good too. There is also a Russian web-site with a load of drawings of the engine components.

www.rover2/ru

It's in 'Russian' english. Funny how the Ruskis have all the info. Must be those KGB types had Rovers as company cars !

On the other hand.............

If it really is 2 hours then around £40-50 an hour is reasonable, giving a price of £80-100 plus the VAT = £94 - 117. £220 looks a bit toooo much to me.

David3807 · 24th May 2007, 22:17

Another link to the site above but put through a Russian/English translation program first.

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...c%2Fr%2F122520

Lates · 24th May 2007, 22:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by sebguy87

Hi all,

First of all great site and thanks, have been browsing silently for a while now and it's been a massive help with a number of things. I've finally got the money together to buy a new inlet manifold... the rattle is unbearable!

I paid for the part, but also enquired about replacing the VIS motors as I'm worried that they've burned out. The guy at the local garage says that the VIS motors come included in the assembly. Can anybody confirm that this is usually the case?

Also, does everybody think it's worth paying around £220 to get it fitted?

Can it go awfully wrong with my haynes manual and the correct tools?

Thanks in advance

£220 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! New motors do come with the manifold and and hour is standard book time to replace. ps you have email

sebguy87 · 26th May 2007, 09:58

Thanks for your response all

I can't really build up the courage to diy it incase anything goes wrong or I don't put something back properly so I'm going to take it up to Lates (can't fault the quote for fitting)

I'll let you all know when it's done and whether I notice a difference in power (it does seem a bit lazy at times.. especially at lower revs so hopefully this will sort it)

Thanks again for all your advice

23rd May 2007, 17:20	#1
sebguy87 Newbie MG ZT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vale of Glamorgan, Wales Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	KV6 160 Inlet Manifold and VIS Motors Hi all, First of all great site and thanks, have been browsing silently for a while now and it's been a massive help with a number of things. I've finally got the money together to buy a new inlet manifold... the rattle is unbearable! I paid for the part, but also enquired about replacing the VIS motors as I'm worried that they've burned out. The guy at the local garage says that the VIS motors come included in the assembly. Can anybody confirm that this is usually the case? Also, does everybody think it's worth paying around £220 to get it fitted? Can it go awfully wrong with my haynes manual and the correct tools? Thanks in advance Last edited by sebguy87; 23rd May 2007 at 17:34..

24th May 2007, 11:44	#4
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I did it ... With some help I changed my manifold about 3 months ago. yes the Vis motors come included in the new manifold and are already secured in place. It's all pretty straight forward. Remove airbox. Easy Remove battery box/battery. Done to get some space. Remove engine cover. Easy Remove Trhottle body assembly. This is kinda sucky cause there is one hose on there that you can't seem to disconnect on the TB itself maybe somewhere else i just left it connected and put it to the side. (While disconnected give it a good clean !!) Disconnect lines hoses (maybe even keep track hoses lines and plugs you disconnect) Remove manifold ( harder 2 bolts at the back are a pain. Need a good ratchet for that. Top TIP Check if your due for Sparkplug change. Cause with the manifold off the sparkplugs are easally changed. Prising the manifold off need a good prybarr for that cause the rubber seals that plug it in the engine are tight on there (you get new ones with your manifold) Refitting you need pretty stern force to put the manifold on. And take pictures if you do do it yourself so you know where what goes back when in doubt Overall impression pretty doable just take it easy and step by step. i did it with my uncle he's a Mechanic with his own garage (lucky me) A safety net with 30 yrs of auto machanic is pretty nice Total time 2 hours 30 mins.

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23rd May 2007, 17:34	#2
Kandyman Banned ROVER 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Limousine 2004 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Welling Posts: 10,995 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Hi sebguy87, Glad to see you posting at last I would of thought that the unit should be fairly easy to swap over as long as you know you way around a spanner, but wait for one of our smart guys to reply let us know how you get on and the difference you find in power. Good luck

23rd May 2007, 20:34	#3
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	I didn't think you could buy the manifold without new motors? Lates may confirm that but if you can buy a genuine brand new manifold less motors I would certainly go that route first and over haul the original motors. The motors will either be ok or not there is not really a middle ground it will be the switches on the PCB that will most likely need attention, easy to do. As for £220 to fit it that seems steep for what I think is no more than two hours work max, I personally would diy it

24th May 2007, 20:55	#5
Fraser Mitchell Gets stuck in Rover 75 2.5 V6 Club Auto Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Crewe Posts: 898 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Replacing this manifold should be reasonable easy for a self-taught mechanic,but I would always take pictures before hand and during to make sure you can see what goes where when putting things back. Digital cameras have now made this very easy. I used to use a Polaroid instant camera (remember them !!). The new Haynes book is quite good too. There is also a Russian web-site with a load of drawings of the engine components. www.rover2/ru It's in 'Russian' english. Funny how the Ruskis have all the info. Must be those KGB types had Rovers as company cars ! On the other hand............. If it really is 2 hours then around £40-50 an hour is reasonable, giving a price of £80-100 plus the VAT = £94 - 117. £220 looks a bit toooo much to me.

24th May 2007, 22:17	#6
David3807 Posted a thing or two 2002 R75 Conn SE 2.5l Auto Tourer, 2001 R75 Conn SE 2.5 Auto Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Gravesend Posts: 1,897 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Another link to the site above but put through a Russian/English translation program first. http://babelfish.altavista.com/babel...c%2Fr%2F122520

26th May 2007, 09:58	#8
sebguy87 Newbie MG ZT Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Vale of Glamorgan, Wales Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for your response all I can't really build up the courage to diy it incase anything goes wrong or I don't put something back properly so I'm going to take it up to Lates (can't fault the quote for fitting) I'll let you all know when it's done and whether I notice a difference in power (it does seem a bit lazy at times.. especially at lower revs so hopefully this will sort it) Thanks again for all your advice