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Old 17th May 2007, 15:59   #11
Keith
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Changing the filter just needs a minute or so to let the pumps prime it and perhaps a few second more churning other than that I be surprised if it would cause a problem bet he cleaned the contacts on the fuel rail sensor or something

Tom

Easy Start NO! it is not something you should ever need to touch on a daily basis it is an explosive, ok is those oh poo situations I suppose but I have never used it ever.

Just keep the battery charged up if not using the car regularly in the frozen wastes as the Diesel is a bit of a heavy cranker when in freeing conditions and needs all 75AH the battery can muster
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Old 19th May 2007, 08:02   #12
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Originally Posted by MGOracle View Post
Similar problem to last time, went to start her last night and she just cranked and cranked and cranked. Eventually started and when I got home last night, turned her off and back on and she started immediately.

This morning, nothing, cranks, cranks, cranks but won't catch.

This time however, its not the same. Easy Start is useless. Squirt it on and she catches then immediately dies.

Please help!
Did the problems start after the recent rain? Are you certain water could not have accumualted in the plen chamber, even just for a few hours whilst slowly draining away (is the pollen filter wet?)?
The glow plug relay code is possible indicative of a prevously waterlogged glow plug ecu, which is also in the plenum chamber.

My guess is that all the codes are due to a voltage problem, either an excessive output from the alternator (recently there was a thread where the alternator was pumping out 16v and causing all sorts of problems) or a bad connection somewhere. or water damaged ecu. Any spikes or sudden drops will affect several sensors at once and that will generate multiple codes.

Check the battery terminals, chassis ground connections ands signs of any chafing in the wiring loom inc the Synergy wiring. (I melted mine when playing with the egr bypass pipe and it lay over the egr supply tube), ideally inspect the ecu for water ingress.

Easy Start should not cause any codes, if the cam sensor was faulty, the engine wouldn't keep running anyway.

Ron
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Old 22nd May 2007, 12:24   #13
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My poor old neighbour has had yet more trouble.......................

Following day after AA got it going, it refused to start again. AA duly arrived but couldn't get it going so relayed it to the dealer. They rang up to say that it was the fuel pump and would be ready next day.

Following day they rang to say it wasn't ready as they fitted a new pump and it still wouldn't start. They then diagnosed a fault regulator which they changed, and low and behold it started first time.

Thet when proceeded to dismantle the old pump and regulator to discover that they where (as the mechanic put it) "Full of gunge"

Anyway car is back with neighbour and starts on the button everytime.

We've come to the conclusion that the gunge is as a result of the car not being started for 6 months during a very cold spell and the fuel has "waxed up" the pump and requlator.
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Old 22nd May 2007, 12:49   #14
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My poor old neighbour has had yet more trouble.......................

Following day after AA got it going, it refused to start again. AA duly arrived but couldn't get it going so relayed it to the dealer. They rang up to say that it was the fuel pump and would be ready next day.

Following day they rang to say it wasn't ready as they fitted a new pump and it still wouldn't start. They then diagnosed a fault regulator which they changed, and low and behold it started first time.

Thet when proceeded to dismantle the old pump and regulator to discover that they where (as the mechanic put it) "Full of gunge"

Anyway car is back with neighbour and starts on the button everytime.

We've come to the conclusion that the gunge is as a result of the car not being started for 6 months during a very cold spell and the fuel has "waxed up" the pump and requlator.
There is also a microfilter in the HP pump fuel inlet and this has been known to cause all sorts of performance related problems when it gets clogged.

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Old 23rd May 2007, 17:21   #15
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Just an update if I may

The car has been in for a week now. The garage have methodically worked through everything. They've had the car running, etc but she wont start if left for any length of time (mainly overnight), but then if you crank and crank and crank then wait she'll start. This isn't acceptable to me and the route cause has now been narrowed down to the capacitors in the ECU. They are not holding a charge or it discharges fairly quickly.

In short, the charge in the ECU capacitors triggers the injectors to fire during cranking. If this voltage is too low the car won't start. However, by cranking the car and then stopping, the injectors trigger the capacitors and they take a charge onboard which is why the car starts eventually.

I have taken the option of obtaining an new ECU which has cost £550. That plus a new battery and I thought I may as well get the Glow Plug Relay changed (as this fault code has been showing for months). The GPR was corroded so at some point in the cars life the water in the plenum has been pretty high. Not since I've owned it though. Checked weekly or fortnightly in most cases. I figured that a repair was possible but more problems could occur in the future.

So, total bill will probably be very near £1000 plus the £450 I spent on her back in January this car has really really upset me.

In addition, I have been told that the new ECU will be programmed by an ECU company at the garage using the latest firmware available for the CDTi. I assume this is dated sometime in 2004. Can someone confirm what this version is for me? In addition, as the car will not be going to MG, how will all the options that were configured for the car be added?

Thanks for the support - I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 23rd May 2007, 21:13   #16
Keith
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Glow plug relay yes if it is burnt out and I have a very horrible one here given to me as an example then yes change that but the ECU no way.
Send it to the ECU doctor first he charges £30 which is refundable if repairs are needed and will test it thoroughly.

He has repaired several water damaged units already

If yours is a CDTi then T4 will simply re program the new one based on what it reads from your ZCS codes nothing magic no super duper latest firmware you will just get whatever is on the Testbook CD they are using
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