Rustproofing

[Dawn]

Well, the weather is here for it now (kinda) but the thought of rolling around for hours under the ZT is a daunting one, and when I've done, I know without a proper ramp there will be areas I have missed.

I have considered having it done properly - not just wax put on, but cleaned off and rust treated etc first, but it looks like that is circa £500, and there are not many places near me do it.


The car is a keeper, but which service do I go for? I've heard good and bad reviews about Krown, has anyone who has had there car done got an opinion after a few years being treated?


Other options include waxoyl, or something I had not heard of before called Mercasol.

Any reviews after having these products applied? Any recommendations for places near Ilkeston Derbyshire?


Thanks

[victorgte]

I did my TF myself and I’m about to do the Copperleaf 75 next.
It’s not as bad as you think although I hired a 4 post lift to do the TF which helped a lot. 4 to 5 hours work and the car was done. Hire cost me £30.
Removed any covers in place, clean and wire brush then apply anti rust liquid to all the areas needing it.
Cup of tea and cake to allow it to go off then sprayed Dinitrol everywhere. My local MOT tester was using the next lift and he was impressed.
5 hours of my time, £60 for the Dinitrol and £10 anti rust solution. £1 for some cheap paint brushes which I threw away.
The 75 will be done using my steal car ramps but it gives enough clearance to do one end at a time. Lying down is the biggest problem this time. I will also give it a good jet wash a few days before to allow it to dry properly underneath. You would be hard pushed to spend over £100 doing it yourself.

[Dawn]

I can 't do it properly myself. I tried in the V6 Animal now has but wasn't happy. I can't lift the wheels back on, I can't get the arch covers off, and I hurt for days afterwards last time. No access to a proper lift, only ramps.

[Rickshaw]

Definitely Treat your car
I had 2 of my cars treated by Rustbuster - http://www.rust.co.uk/ who are up near Spalding. It’s worth going to their web site just to get some sound ideas / guides on how to approach matters eg read Treating Rust the Rustbuster Way! I certainly use their products - especially the FE-123 Rust Converter , followed by Epoxy Mastic 121. There are , of course , Waxoyl specialists too. Last year I also thoroughly treated my third 75 paying particular attention thus as I recall :-
• Remove any Salt and muck from the underbody / wheel arches :-
o Had at hand Rustbuster’s de-salting liquid , hand water sprayer , soft and hard paint brushes . hard and soft scrubbing brushes , Bottle brushes , Gunk
o Removed as much loose mud etc at possible first
o Next applied Gunk with brushes
o Washed clean with wet rags and hand sprayer
o Did all this on hot sunny day(s) and also had an old hair drier
o I paid particular attention to lips around wheel arches , Subframes , Rear Upper Arms , Rear Trailing arms and Toe Brackets ( all known as ‘Rust areas’ ) plus under body cross Struts and Anti-Roll bars.
• Treat rust on main areas
o Had at hand small wire brushes , a most useful Dremel with suitable attachments eg stone grinders , rough pads , wire brushes (DO get a Dremel) , carborundum paper/pads , Rustbuster’s FE-123 ie a rust converter , Epoxy mastic
o Remove any rust down to metal (Dremel invaluable !) and then apply Converter.
o I then applied Epoxy Mastic to give a hard , protective coat.
o Again , I paid particular attention to lips around wheel arches , Subframes , Rear Upper Arms , Rear Trailing arms and Toe Brackets ( all known as ‘Rust areas’ ) plus under body cross Struts and Anti-Roll bars.
• Protect
o Cavities using use an extension pipe to spray in.
 Cavity Wax (Dinitrol) applied to :-
• Rear Upper Arm ,
• Rear Trailing Toe Brackets
• Subframes
• Underbody Frame Hollows - quite a few and you can find the drain / vent holes
o Global Protective Coat
 Applied Dinitrol Under body Wax to everything !

• Treat Sills ( length of car below doors ) I cover separately here
The Chrome Finishers that run the length of the Car body
• To examine these I :-
o Removed the Sill finishers - prise the lower edge of the finisher away from sill and gently flick the ‘fee’ of each clip out of finisher lower lip.
o bought an Endescope off EBay plus some cheap battery driven Leds XMAS lights! to look into all the Sill sections . You could use a torch and squint inside through the Sill grip holes as an alternative .
• To protect (use an extension pipe to spray in)
o I sprayed Dinatrol cavity wax in through these holes - but there are also drain holes into each just under the car you could use.
• Jacking points
o THE most awkward Sill section is the Jacking points . Here , my Endescope and XMAS lights were most useful - but you can use a small extending mirror too. I removed rust ( mostly using grades of Carborundum paper) , applied converter/Epoxy and sprayed Dinatrol Cavity wax.
•
I also :-
• removed the Front wings and applied the full treatment above eg Rust removal , converter , Epoxy Mastic ( thickly along the Lips ) and then Dinitrol Underbody wax .
• removed the wheel arch liners and treated the wheel arches as per the wings
• Driver side rear arch NOTE. There is a large hole in the arch where the fuel pipe runs but there is also plenty of room round it for water to gain access. I plugged this with heaps of underbody wax.
• I also applied Cavity Wax to the hollow sides/ sections of my bonnets
There are quite a few drain holes in the frame structures under the car body where you can use a Wax extension pipe to spray in. This applies to the Sills too.
On a recent thread I also mentioned that I have run Silicone Sealant all along :-
Chrome Finishers - an additional point.
There are two groups of these :-
• The lower Sill Finishers ( already mentioned)
• Upper sets along Wings / Doors
From experience , I have found that the grip holes for these often allow water to enter Cavities eg :-
My boot had a serious leak previous owner / garage could not fix. I traced it to a rear wing Chrome Finisher grip hole.
Some Lower Sill grips were clearly letting water in.
To stop all this I ran Silicone down the entire lengths of all finishers. I lifted each finisher slightly away and plugged extra Silicone around each grip hole. This certainly killed the boot flood dead.
Don’t forget the Rear Window grips potential Leak. There is an excellent ‘How t’ for this by Rich as I recall.

Raising the car
I used a combination of things to lift one wheel area at a time :-
• Rover 75 jack on the standard jack point
• I have some spare jacks and would apply one to the other jack point on same side but not to raise the second wheel right off ground
• I have a number of concrete bricks / blocks which I also place under the raised area with solid wood on top
• Blocks used as chucks under the wheels of course
• Finally , I also bought a hydraulic jack which I position centrally under the points at front or rear of the vehicle.

Hope this is of some help!.

[Dawn]

I know what needs to be done but I can't physically do it. Thats why I asked for recommendations. Can you give me a review if the Rustbuster work you had done? I have spoken to them as well as others but want to hear peoples thoughts before choosing. ☺

[Lancpudn]

I watched a video (Hubnut) get his Skoda treated in the Midlands by 'Krown' and he takes you through the process.



They seem to do a thorough job, It's one of those jobs you only want to get done once.


http://krown.co.uk/uk

[Arctic]

They were paid up members on here at one stage, but I think a few frowned on them with out even giving them a try,

Edgar used to come to the Nano meets, also Dawn asked about them back in 2016. we were also invited to the by premises Edgar to hold a pop up Nano meets where there would be a good discount for X amount of members whom would like their car treated, sadly we never to up the opportunity it might be worth contacting them again to see if the offer was still available ? who knows after a slating by members whom have never had the job done just read about it
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=254599




https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ighlight=krown

[Rickshaw]

re your query 'I know what needs to be done but I can't physically do it. Thats why I asked for recommendations. Can you give me a review if the Rustbuster work you had done? I have spoken to them as well as others but want to hear peoples thoughts before choosing.' I think the first thing as regards the Rustbuster's Service they offer is for you to read https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/o...ing-service-24 . In addition to this service I had them strip back to metal inside wing arches / lips and treat ( I think with rust converter and Epoxy Mastic) . I discussed the whole process and watched them do some of the work . I was extremely impressed on both their approach and considerable depth of knowledge on the whole business of corrosion / protection ( you can get a feel for this on https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/r...w-to-do-it--30).
There is also an excellent article on Rustbusters at https://www.rust.co.uk/files/pdf/Rus...20Marshall.pdf . Worth reading.
This year I will be using Rustbuster sourced products on my MGTF.
Our cars are classics and deserve the best treatment I believe so we can continue to get years of pleasure and pride out of them.

All the best

[vacuman]

Well done Dawn for doing this. It should be no.1 on any to-do list.

I see too many posts on Facebook groups (usually new owners) who straight away want to spend any spare dosh on spoilers, new wheels, head units, Xenons etc. rather than ensuring first that their new pride and joy will last long enough to make it all worthwhile.

[Rickshaw]

My sentiment too.