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Old 24th March 2019, 11:43   #21
racing green rover
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Does anyone know why there is no coolant coming out of the bleed screw when we tried to bleed it with the engine off

Update raised expansion tank with bleed screw removed engine cold and not running water did come out so started the engine up with cap off and as I was holding it at 2000rpm the expansion nearly overflowed so I dropped it down to 1500 rpm and it was fine I put the cap back on after 5 minute and the heater is still cold everything is fine now apart from that
Thanks

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Old 24th March 2019, 14:10   #22
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Without the engine running, only residual system pressure would push coolant out of the bleed screw. I really think your heater core (matrix) is blocked. You said the drained coolant was dirty. The heater core blocks way easier than the radiator. You need to confirm flow there and at the oil cooler that seems to be a common blockage point - or bypass the oil cooler after clearing the heater core to confirm proper flow.

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Old 24th March 2019, 14:50   #23
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Yes I'm 100% the matrix is blocked but it's the rise in coolant about to overflow when I first started the engine with the cap off after I bled it at 2000rpm after only a minute when it was running. I hope it isn't exhaust gases
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Old 24th March 2019, 15:19   #24
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On my V6 I had the bleed screw open while running the engine and only closed it when I was satisfied a healthy amount of coolant was being expelled. The expansion tank was raised to max with cap off but at tickover and only the occasional persuasion by operating the throttle lever.

I don’t think there was any K-seal in mine, but something seemed to be blocking things until I got it to “burp”. After which I then got heat in the car.

If you’re sure there’s no air remaining in the system then its time to get the heater matrix out and either flush it clean or replace with a secondhand unit. After which of course you’ll have to bleed the coolant system again.

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Old 24th March 2019, 15:41   #25
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I'm fairly sure there isn't any air left as I let engine get up to temperature and the cooling fan kicked in at 100 and brought it back down to 94 also the top hose gets really hot and the bottom is hot now slight cooler than the top hose
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Old 24th March 2019, 17:00   #26
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Been to check it again the coolant level was at max as soon as I started it it rose quickly to the top of the tank at one time the temperature rose to 106 degrees then the fast speed kicked in and brought it down to 100 where the low speed kicked in and brought it down to 95 I noticed after the top hose went soft again like as if there's nothing in it

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Old 24th March 2019, 18:21   #27
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As mentioned twice before in this thread, check/bypass the oil cooler
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Old 24th March 2019, 18:52   #28
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I'm going to drain it and flush the engine and rad again next weekend aswell as bypassing the oil cooler I will try to flush that out aswell, just checked it again and there is definitely water going through the top hose as it gets warm and goes firm the bottom is quite a bit cooler the coolant level was on max when I checked it cold then it gradually rose to the top as soon I started the engine with the cap off it and also when the low speed came on it was taking ages to drop from 100, is the oil cooler a big job to replace thanks

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Old 28th March 2019, 08:25   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racing green rover View Post
I drained the cooling system today all the coolant was full of k seal ...
Pete; this is the cause of all your problems. Prepare yourself for a long job involving repeated use of flushing agents. One club member uses Holts Speedflush but leaves it in the coolant for a few miles rather than simply adding and draining. You're tackling this the correct way Pete. Good luck.

Simon
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Old 29th March 2019, 00:02   #30
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I'm going to drain the water again tomorrow and try to flush the oil cooler if that doesn't work I'll get a new cooler also the thermostat has a leak so I'll be ordering a new one
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