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Old 2nd September 2018, 08:26   #11
super s
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Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Have you changed the fuel filter?
no Mike, haven t removed the fuel filter...

should i???

for any special reason?

thanks.
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Old 2nd September 2018, 08:28   #12
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Is there any difference on the instrument console (more or fewer warning lights when key in in position just before starting) as between when it will start up and when it will not? If so, post photos.
no, the instrument cluster is the same as always..

the difference is that the engine yellow light stays on because it wont fire up i believe.
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Old 2nd September 2018, 09:28   #13
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no Mike, haven t removed the fuel filter...

should i???

for any special reason?

thanks.
Worth replacing it if only to rule it out of being part of the problem.

Going back to the instrument panel, with key to position II, does the oil low pressure warning light come on as it should when the car is failing to start?
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Old 2nd September 2018, 10:04   #14
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Worth replacing it if only to rule it out of being part of the problem.

Going back to the instrument panel, with key to position II, does the oil low pressure warning light come on as it should when the car is failing to start?
i believe so... not on the car today because i am at work, but will check that properly...

can you tell what that would probe???
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Old 2nd September 2018, 11:49   #15
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It could be due to failure of the CAN bus controller in the ECM.
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Old 2nd September 2018, 13:59   #16
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i see...
any other thing Mike that you can point me???

or other member have any idea???
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Old 2nd September 2018, 22:47   #17
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i see...
any other thing Mike that you can point me???

or other members have any idea???
Further to Mike's suggestion, which would most likely require ECU surgery, I had a similar issue that was eventually traced to frayed wires behind the N.S. headlamp above/ahead of the wheel arch. A total pig of a job to isolate. The question about the warning lamps resulted from that experience.
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Old 2nd September 2018, 23:44   #18
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Work down this list for a non starting diesel

This is how a non starting CDTi should be trouble shooted.

A) How much fuel do I have?
This is the first thing to check, especially if your car is pre-facelift and has two low pressure fuel pumps. These are located in the tank on the drivers side and under the bonnet next to the battery (left of). Post facelift have a different single intank fuel pump which to date seem to be more reliable.

Both pumps prime for between 30 seconds and 1 minute when the ignition is turned to position II.

You should be able to hear the rear pump making a high pitch whine by listening to the rear wheel arch or pressing your ear to the rear seat base. If still unsure, remove the rear seat and feel the access panel for vibration. This will indicate that the pump is working.

You can hear the underbonnet pump from within the car but check by opening the bonnet. It should make a continuous noise. If it is gurgling loudly, this is a sign that something is not quite right.

If your car is not starting and your fuel guage is below half it is worth adding 5 to 10 litres to the car and trying to start it again. If it does start, this is a clear indication that your intank pump may have stopped working or is on its way out. This will place more strain on the under bonnet pump which will become apparent with increased noise. Usually only the intank pump will need replacing. This can be found on ebay for around £200 and fitted with minimal mechanical knowledge. A dealer is likely to charge upwards of £350 for the part and labour.

B) Check your plenum drain
This is where the ECU is stored. Without appropriate maintenance the drains in this are become blocked and no longer allow water to be removed. As the water level grows the threat to the ECU becomes greater. Even if the ECU has not been submerged but there is water in the plenum the damp moisture can be enough to cause problems.

There will likely be a host of other symptoms available to confirm that your ECU is playing up such as eratic dials, malfunctioning electrics.

C) Start the car with Easy Start
Easy Start is a simple chemical process which allows the car to start by igniting across the top of the cylinders with a low flash point. It should not be religiously used as it can damage the engine. Due to the massive inlet tract of the diesel engine (some 5 or 6ft before the air actually reaches the engine) it is best to remove the engine cover and unscrew the jubilee clip holding the large intercooler pipe to the EGR valve assembly at the front right of the engine.

Spray a sniff of easy start into the EGR valve and get someone to crank the car over. Do not continue to spray.

i) If the car starts and runs
You can rule out any electrical component such as the Cam and Crank sensor but you cannot rule out the ECU as its capacitors could be dying.

You can (with large probability) rule out both low pressure fuel pumps as fuel starvation will not magically be cured and the engine will stall.

So what do I Check?
If you can get the car running on Easy Start, replace the Intercooler hose to the EGR valve assembly. Turn the car off, wait a minute and try and start the car normally. Chances are it will not start.

Start the car again using Easy Start and take it to your local Bosch Service Agent. These are far more competent diesel specialists than your old Ex MGR service garage and are able to diagnose with better equipment.

Possibilities now are: ECU Capacitors, High Pressure Control Valve Regulator Seal, Injector Leakback.

Associated costs are: ECU = £650 and will need T4 session to match it to the car. HPCVR = £250. Injector Leakback = from £85, FPS = £100

ii) If the car does not start on ES
If it catches but does not idle (as in, it stalls) unfortunately you are in the worst possible situation. Try the Easy Start again but do not proceed beyond this point.

You have a few choices here and there are some gambles. Personally, I would immediately get the car collected and taken to a Bosch Specialist. Recovery can cost as little as £40 if the garage is local (within 15 miles).

Alternatively you can purchase parts yourself and hope you pick the right one. Here is a list of things that will need checking / replacing.

Fuel Pumps (as earlier, make sure they are working).

Fuel Pressure Sensor - Replace

Change your Cam and Crank sensor (£110 for both as parts, Cam is easy change, crank is relatively easy but takes a bit longer as it is situated below the starter motor).

Serious Injector Leakback - If your injectors are seriously leaking, Easy Start will be useless, however there would be a very strong of diesel from the engine bay if this was the case. Suggest diagnosed / replaced by garage.

Serious High Pressure Control Valve Regulator Seal - If the seal has deteriorated and/or actually blown through then Easy Start will be useless. It will need to be addressed by the garage.

ECU / ECU Capacitors - Replacement ECU and a session on T4.

D) What other possibilites are there?
Very little other possibilities. However, you can't even rule out the battery. This is true especially if the ECU capacitors are not cranking at their correct voltage.

Synergy Box (if fitted) - Its highly unlikely that this has caused the problem or is in anyway stopping the car from starting. However it is important to remove it and return the car to standard before carrying out the above checks.

Pumps playing tricks - Attach the front underbonnet pump directly to a 5litre can of diesel and try and start the car. This will highlight a poor intank or underbonnet pump.
--
Regards
Jules
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Newbies do now!!
1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent
2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning
3. Bonnet cable divider block
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Old 5th September 2018, 14:22   #19
super s
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followed this guide but still no go for the car…

will try now to remove the regulator seal on the high pressure valve…

believe that i must find a crack… is it?
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Old 6th September 2018, 12:14   #20
super s
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still in need of more advices....
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