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Old 5th October 2017, 17:46   #11
RogerHeinz57
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Chris, the use of this jack is really good, the handle will need a good grip to allow the foot to lower, I need both hands at times ! This jack will with ease raise the car at either end, but we must remember that cars move when they get jacked up be it with a small or large jack, so aligning the chassis stands is essential, and lowering the jack should be done progressively to avoid missing the stand's central point to support the vehicle !
The handle is a two piece jobby, and both sections are removable.
The weight of the jack is a tad over 30Kg, so not totally impossible to carry !
From new, this jack has instructions on how to initiate the system by opening up the lowering valve, and pumping the jack handle 10 full strokes to bleed out the air within the hydraulic system. After that, its ready for use.
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Old 5th October 2017, 19:24   #12
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what family cars have only jacking points that are not on the "outer edge" of the car?

if op's jacking pads are missing I can see the possibility of confusion but not if pads are in place.

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Old 5th October 2017, 20:14   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smudge.g View Post
I had to change a rear tyre on my tourer yesterday and I had a real pig of a time trying to raise the back up to get the wheel off the ground. I couldnt reach the jacking point in the rear centre as its simply not possible with the rover jack so i wondered what people use? I eventually managed it using the bottom of the damper to raise the wheel a few cm but this was far from safe and I wouldnt do it again. any thoughts guys? thanks for reading.


Hi I use a 3 tonne sports car barrel roller trolley Jack when working on the car. This has the advantage of being extremely low when fully compressed less than 65mm, it also has a great reach 380mm to the centre of the pad from the cantilever action. Finally it has a large pad surface and came with a variety of insert neoprene pads.
I have had this jack for many years and service it every other year new seals and oil change. with its large needle roller carried rollers both front and rear it moves smoothly on the ground when lifting the vehicle always keeping the jack at the best angle for a safe smooth lift.
I bought this jack when I worked on sports cars as it offered the clearance to get under the main chassis legs of the low ground clearance vehicles that I used to work on. It is so much easier to use than a normal 4 castor trolley jack and will easily go under the lowest track car. Sadly I can't see the make on it due to its age.
When out and about in the passed 30 years I have only had to change wheels due to road damage to tyres three times twice in the passed year. On both of these occasions I have used the jack supplied with the car. I have found it easy to do with the jack fitting well into the sill plate and raising the car to a height, making it easy to remove the damaged road wheel and still high enough to fit the fully inflated spare wheel. In summer that is a 225x45x17 tyre with full tread. Whilst in the Winter it is a 205x65x15 or 195x65x15 depending on which had the best deal on price at the time of purchase.
Please, Please, Please make sure that when you raise your car on a jack that the jack is securely mounted on the cars jacking point. If you are going to be doing anything other than a wheel change raise the car and place Axel stands lowering the car on to the stands before commencing any works. You should never attempt to carry out works with the car only supported on a jack.
As well as the cars own tool kit I carry a battery powered impact gun for bolt removal, a sign of my old age. All of my wheel bolts are covered with copper grease on the threads and the bolts are spline drive security bolts.
Please everyone remember our cars are big lumps and need to be treated with respect. You all keep your selfs safe you don't want a tonne and a half of Rover on top of you, it would hurt.
Alan


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Old 20th July 2019, 15:32   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerHeinz57 View Post
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gara...n-trolley-jack

This jack is a fantastic tool to use on our cars, I have one that has served very very well, will do one end lift with no problem .......
I'm thinking of getting one (the SGS TJ3X) - I like the double pistons but the 29.5kg weight is a bit off-putting.

Maybe the 19.5 kg Sealey 1153CX is a decent compromise? Only one piston but it's not far off otherwise.
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Old 20th July 2019, 15:36   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mss View Post
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...er-rocket-lift

This is one of my two jacks. It is sturdy and has high lift so can be used on the central lifting points as well as the pads.

SGS Engineering sell some nice jacks at reasonable prices.

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gara...n-trolley-jack

The standard 75 jack is more than adequate for wheel changes by lifting under the sill pads.

I have an SGS trolley jack. Sorry but I would not recommend it. It lowers "dangerously" fast and the car really thumps down. Imagine lowering onto axle stands and the car thumping down.

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Old 20th July 2019, 16:12   #16
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Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
I have an SGS trolley jack. Sorry but I would not recommend it. It lowers "dangerously" fast and the car really thumps down. Imagine lowering onto axle stands and the car thumping down.

macafee2
That doesn't sound too good. Can't the lowering speed be controlled by turning the handle very slightly? Even my cheap old Halfords jack will do that.

Which SGS have you got btw?
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Old 20th July 2019, 16:32   #17
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
That doesn't sound too good. Can't the lowering speed be controlled by turning the handle very slightly? Even my cheap old Halfords jack will do that.

Which SGS have you got btw?
TJ3 I think. Turning the handle seems to go from nowt to drop like a stone in the blink of an eye.


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Old 20th July 2019, 20:21   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mss View Post
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...er-rocket-lift

This is one of my two jacks. It is sturdy and has high lift so can be used on the central lifting points as well as the pads.

SGS Engineering sell some nice jacks at reasonable prices.

https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gara...n-trolley-jack

The standard 75 jack is more than adequate for wheel changes by lifting under the sill pads.
I can throughly recommend SGS 3 ton jack. Over 500 mm height. Enough to jack on the rear middle jacking point to put the car down onto a pair of axle stands. Excellent quality and very well built,and heavy.
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Old 20th July 2019, 20:39   #19
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I use an Arcan XL3000

Low entry, and suitable for most jobs.

A twin piston pump means fast lifting under complete control, and a built in rubber pad on the saddle.

Not the lightest unit, but robust

Brian
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Old 21st July 2019, 09:45   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
TJ3 I think. Turning the handle seems to go from nowt to drop like a stone in the blink of an eye.
macafee2
Maybe a much smaller amount of turn would do it. If I turn my old Halfords handle by a tiny amount (1-2mm, barely a touch) the jack comes down very slowly. If I turn it any more than that, it'll come crashing down at an alarming rate of knots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
I can throughly recommend SGS 3 ton jack. Over 500 mm height. Enough to jack on the rear middle jacking point to put the car down onto a pair of axle stands. Excellent quality and very well built,and heavy.
What about lowering speed - can it be made to come down very slowly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
I use an Arcan XL3000

Low entry, and suitable for most jobs.

A twin piston pump means fast lifting under complete control, and a built in rubber pad on the saddle.

Not the lightest unit, but robust

Brian
Aluminium, very nice. A bit too dear for me though (well, a lot too dear ).
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