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Old 3rd January 2017, 11:34   #11
David Lawrence
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastPete View Post
Thanks for this Mike - another useful method for getting the wishbones off, and probably lower risk than the jack/weight of the car method. I have been successful on a few occasions now using a good bearing puller to crack the joint, as mentioned by David Lawrence. However, it is good to have a possible back-up in case this does not always work.

Cheers

Pete
I like the appliance of science to a problem like this and Mike's method applies just enough logic that it should work and as said before looks easier than my method. My greatest fear was the threads stripping in the puller.

Jules method seemed like a dead cert by dropping the car off a jack on to the ball joint stud but just didnt work for me. The neighbours thought i had gone mad. But after about 20 drops i gave up and used the puller. Then the joint just kind of sits there looking at you saying "what was all that about then?"
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Old 3rd January 2017, 12:26   #12
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Thumbs up Wishbone-how to crack the ball joint.

I think Mike24's post on "how to crack a ball joint" merits going into the "How to" section, the more alternative ways the better.
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Old 3rd January 2017, 13:40   #13
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I went out and had a quick measure up of the wishbone this morning; the distance between the sub-frame ball-joint and the hub ball-joint is about 14" (350mm). If the fulcrum is placed around 2" (50mm) from the sub-frame ball-joint it will give a mechanical advantage of 7:1. I don't know how much force is required to compress the coil spring, but I guess it must be several hundred pounds, multiply this by seven and the pulling force exerted by the spring must be considerable! The larger the diameter of the fulcrum between the sub-frame and the wishbone the more the spring has to be compressed and the greater the resultant force. My first thought was to use a large socket as a fulcrum, but there were some slightly ominous cracking noises as I lowered the jack under the hub ball-joint and I was concerned that the thinner part of the socket might be crushed, so I substituted the hammer head.
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Old 3rd January 2017, 16:32   #14
David Lawrence
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It would be even better if a purpose sized spacer could be used, optimized for easy insertion and maximum benefit. If you then drilled a hole in each end it could be turned in to a puller for any that dont pop with a few hammer blows
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Old 25th July 2017, 16:17   #15
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Just dug this post out as I remember a pic of a bearing puller David Lawrence used to seperate joint, unfortunatly PhotoBucket strikes again.

Ive done this twice before and both times dropping car did not budge it and I had to get it on a 4 post with drift chisel and huge hammer. I would like to avoid this and do it on the drive, has anyone got a link to a bearing puller that may work.

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Old 25th July 2017, 16:29   #16
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Originally Posted by Best_of_British View Post
Just dug this post out as I remember a pic of a bearing puller David Lawrence used to seperate joint, unfortunatly PhotoBucket strikes again.

Ive done this twice before and both times dropping car did not budge it and I had to get it on a 4 post with drift chisel and huge hammer. I would like to avoid this and do it on the drive, has anyone got a link to a bearing puller that may work.

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This is almost the same as the one I use;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TecTake-BEA...ller+kit&psc=1

If the taper joint is well seized into the subframe, then you will need to use quite a lot of force on the puller, and one of mine has got slightly bent undoing a stubborn wishbone, but this piece of kit has always shifted them in my hands.

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Old 25th July 2017, 16:37   #17
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Thank you, looks more solid than the 3 leg's one I was looking at and not a bad price. Its not been on more than 12 month, but they still seem to wedge solid on taper.



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Old 24th April 2019, 06:11   #18
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You guys got any suggestions on a puller that will fit? I can't seem to get enough clearance to fit a puller

The one that does fit keeps spreading open the more i wind it so i can't get it to apply the force where it's needed.

Without being to jack the car up that high, using a hammer is pretty hopeless as i'd never be able to get enough welly to it.
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Old 24th April 2019, 07:04   #19
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I've just done this and it was an absolute nightmare.

Thread here:

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=290819

The tool that worked was a US Pro 12 tonne ball joint separator - it's one big, heavy piece of kit.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1AkhPgrYJL.jpg

You'll need to drop the anti roll bar and the steering rack ball joint (cue wheel tracking) because the space is very tight but it can be done. I created a "well" in grease around the top of the ball joint and filled it with Plusgas and left it for several days to help.

Good luck.

Andy.

Last edited by AndyN01; 24th April 2019 at 07:08..
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Old 24th April 2019, 20:37   #20
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Originally Posted by AndyN01 View Post
I've just done this and it was an absolute nightmare.

Thread here:

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=290819

The tool that worked was a US Pro 12 tonne ball joint separator - it's one big, heavy piece of kit.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1AkhPgrYJL.jpg

You'll need to drop the anti roll bar and the steering rack ball joint (cue wheel tracking) because the space is very tight but it can be done. I created a "well" in grease around the top of the ball joint and filled it with Plusgas and left it for several days to help.

Good luck.

Andy.
A link to buying the seperator
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heavy-Hydra...joint+splitter
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