KV6 Camshaft Cap Fitting Tips - Insitu

[Lovel]

Anyone have any simple tips on fitting camshaft caps LUC100151 to the KV6 engine ?

Have done quite a few over the years and none have popped out thank goodness, but was spoiled last time as the engine was out of the vehicle while this last one was engine in situ. It was the front one I was having most trouble with as there is nothing sturdy to lever against. I toyed with the idea of a hook under the sharp edge of the camshaft alloy housing and using a lever to apply pressure to the cam cap, but just persevered tapping in place with a dolly and long wooden drift, but it took quite a bit of time.

The alternative lip seals might be easier to fit having the bonus of a reduced surface area the inner engine pressure is less likely to blow them out, however this then leaves the seal exposed to dust etc from outside which should mean you need to fit a dust cap for longevity.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Lovel

Anyone have any simple tips on fitting camshaft caps LUC100151 to the KV6 engine ?

Yes Gary, but you most likely won’t like it.

Take care not to damage the originals on removal. They can then be re-used. I have done this on the L.H. bank and the ribbed contact surface on mine still provides an effective seal. If the crankcase breather system isn’t blocked there won’t be any pressure behind them.

Simon

[Lovel]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Yes Gary, but you most likely won’t like it.

Take care not to damage the originals on removal. They can then be re-used. I have done this on the L.H. bank and the ribbed contact surface on mine still provides an effective seal. If the crankcase breather system isn’t blocked there won’t be any pressure behind them.

Simon

Cryptic? You won’t like it?

I have removed them without damage on many occasions but I like to fit new undamaged caps especially when it’s not my vehicle. The breathers are most likely restricted to an extent. I’m sure they will hold and they are all the way inserted by measuring the depth. I would just like to hear about others installers methods used for cap fitting that does not rip the black elastomer finish or distort the metal housing on the outside.

By the lack of responses it sounds like no-one has a decent non marking solution other than a mallet or nylon dolly etc. Now with the front end off perhaps more accessible or engine out or jacked up while stretching all the harness or pipes etc doesn’t appeal to me.

Btw. Since it was a hot topic before. These belts I have just changed have been fitted from new and are 80k/14 years old on a one owner carefully driven vehicle and have hairline cracking around the circumference. I wouldn’t have liked to have driven it much longer tbh. The idler pulley had a slight rumble but the fulcrum tensioner was still in good shape along with water pump. When timed up with mgr tools at the safe mark the rear pulleys were off possibly 1/2 a tooth on each bank, which tells me there has been some form of movement over the years of use. With new belt fitted and few turns of the engine then another fine tune adjustment the rear cylinder bank pulley are lining up beautifully and the valve timing has been restored to original setting.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Lovel

... I like to fit new undamaged caps especially when it’s not my vehicle ... that does not rip the black elastomer finish or distort the metal housing on the outside.

Hi Gary,

The soft black finish on my originals was nicked during the removal process but there was no structural distortion. I agree that fitting new caps is preferable but as you correctly pointed out, this is extremely difficult particularly on the LH bank. In my view, refitting a slightly nicked but perfectly functional original cap is far preferable to leaving the ends of the camshafts exposed where they will rust (I have seen this and I wasn’t impressed).

As you’ve brought up the hot topic of timing belt replacement ...

... then another fine tune adjustment the rear cylinder bank pulley are lining up beautifully ...

Can you explain please Gary exactly what you mean by “another fine tuning adjustment”.

Simon

[Bolin]

I think I used a piece of wood, rubber mallet and small hammer.

Whole front end off makes the whole job much easier.

Also use a phone to take pics of the underside of the caps which you can't see (or use a dentist's mirror) to check for certain that they are not wonky and are fully home all the way around.

One of the worst bits of the job is fitting those caps!

[Lovel]

Perhaps these palm or hammer head nailers may be for consideration, but I think it would be tight.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-CP...UAAOSwqjJZcdqw

https://www.ryobitools.com/products/...lt-auto-hammer

Or how about a midget hydraulic ram. Closed height 40mm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-TON-MID...IAAOSwi7RZHuc5

and pump to suit ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-TON-Hyd...QAAOSwv0tVN9dn