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25th April 2020, 17:07 | #11 | |
I really should get out more.......
P6B, L550, Imp, F56, Commando Join Date: Nov 2006
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Perfectly feasible to be a tooth out, have came across a few, and one that was more than a tooth out from a main dealer! Ran like a bag of nails but once timed correctly ran just like new, and no valve damage was incurred. When fitting the belt make sure you pull up on the front run to make it taught then run it over the exhaust cam wheel keeping tension,then inlet and down the back. It is quite easy to miss a tooth if belt not taught, but this would be caught when you GENTLY turn the engine over a couple of turns to verify that the marks line up. A little bit of 1/2” OD x 2” rubber hose tucked under the crank pulley keeps the belt teeth engaged while doing this Last edited by Lovel; 25th April 2020 at 17:11.. |
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25th April 2020, 20:18 | #12 |
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Thanks Gents.
Yes, got the Haynes manual which is excellent, and does a good job of leading you through the process. Once you stray off the path, so to speak, the manual is less helpful than some of the experienced hands on here. If it's ok to turn the cams in either direction I'll remove the lock tool and bring the timing marks back together. It won't need much. As you say, the belt needs to be tight on the driven side as the tensioner has no effect there. Today it was clearly too loose. The hose is a good idea- this morning I thought I needed 3 hands to get the belt in place. Have a good evening everyone. |
25th April 2020, 22:53 | #13 | |
This is my second home
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TC |
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26th April 2020, 11:20 | #14 |
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Hi T-Cut
Yes, new bolt for tensioner. Been reading this through again, and watched Technozen's Youtube video couple more times. Many thanks! |
29th April 2020, 18:56 | #15 | |
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Have you got a link for that YouTube video? I need to tackle this job and it will be my first time too. (If I can ever get the screws out of the wheel arch liner/sill). |
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29th April 2020, 19:24 | #16 |
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Haven't found Technozen, but here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qn8ljQKZxA&t=70s
Easypeasy with the engine on a stand. TC |
30th April 2020, 12:23 | #17 | |
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30th April 2020, 15:44 | #18 | |
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Once it's off the view is good, even better when you remove the engine mount. If you watch the Technozen video note the bit about the timing belt tensioner: He says "always turn it clockwise", then proceeds to go anti-clockwise. Apparently anticlockwise is the correct way to go. Also very humorous is the bolt which attaches the rear timing cover to the water pump. You undo it from behind. I didn't remove it completely, so didn't have to try and locate the hole from the wrong side. Also, one of the bolts for the lower cover is hidden behind the power steering belt tensioner. Remove the front bolt, loosen the rear, and the tensioner will swing clear to expose the lower cover bolt. Try not to lose the bolt though . . . |
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30th April 2020, 16:39 | #19 | |
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Here's another YouTube video, same engine on a MGF https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSmw...&index=3&t=11s |
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1st May 2020, 22:32 | #20 |
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Belt is ON.
Luckily the car is not needed for daily use, so I didn't need to rush. I've learned quite a bit on this job, one of the great things about doing it yourself. I had many very helpful tips both here and mg-rover.org Rain stopped play before I finished reassembly, so tomorrow I'll refill coolant, do the oil change, and she's ready to go for her MOT. Failed on brake pipes, now replaced. The car is for our youngest boy, who loves his old Vauxhalls- his Astra diesel is dead on the driveway. We'll see if he appreciates the move upmarket to ZT. |
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