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Old 24th January 2020, 10:41   #41
pletevl
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Do you not think it would be a good idea to actually measure the liner heights rather than just trust your finger nail ? they look a bit high to me, might be the photos, but I have never seen a liner look so high to the eye. Seeing as you haven't clamped the liners down, won't your sealer crack and split as they are pushed down by the head ?

Pete.
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Old 30th January 2020, 18:26   #42
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Default Cylinder Head now fitted.

Cleaned it up ~ did not need much as four years ago when I fitted the first Head Gasket, I thoroughly prepared it then so it did not need much cleaning this time around. Quick once-over with Wire Brush Wheel in the Electric Drill followed by finishing with some worn 180 grade wet and dry used wet.

Came up well :~







MLS [ Multi-Layer-Steel ] Cylinder Head Gasket used this time followed by Head Saver Shim on top.



In this following image, note the use of two short lengths of wood to rest the head on whilst locating the steel dowels in their head locations. The wood pieces a tad thicker than the height of those steel locating dowels to avoid possible damage to the softer alloy of the Cylinder Head face. Far easier locating the dowel nearest the gearbox end first when the wood is removed there. Then repeat the other end.



Fitted and all torqued down in three stages. Stage 1 20nm, Stage 2 further 180 degrees turn, the final Stage 3 a final 180 degree turn.



I re-aligned the Timing Belt and positioned the Tensioner to allow the most Belt Slack on the Tensioner side of the Belt Run around the engine.

Some folks have problems fitting these belts and have been known to stress them when they have difficulty fitting them. If the pointed part of the Tensioner's Adjuster Plate is rotated so that it faces towards the 9 O'Clock position, that setting will provide the most Belt Slack to enable the Belt to be fitted around the Water Pump Drive Pulley, Tensioner Roller and both Camshaft Pulleys.

Last edited by Abott10; 30th January 2020 at 18:45..
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Old 3rd February 2020, 18:03   #43
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Default More progress..

Re-fitted the Exhaust manifold and its Gasket, plus the Alternator.

When I started work it was quite mild and balmy... quite pleasant. By the time I finished and packed away the tools and work bench, it was much cooler





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Old 8th February 2020, 00:35   #44
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Default Things looking better.

Now I have a brief worry about this project with the engine rebuild which I completed yesterday.... I put just plain water into the cooling system today along with a "Finish" dish washer tablet. I want to flush out any stuff no right to be there before I put some proper anti-freeze in.

Soon after start up, cue clouds of Steam out of the exhaust... I do mean clouds. I have seen this before with engine rebuilds where the cars have been out of use for a couple of years or more. It cleared and settled down to a "misting" level you see from even new cars on cold start up in these weather conditions. Even so it was a worry at first ... I'm thinking coolant entering the Exhaust System...somehow or even a worn Turbocharger. Car has 104,000 miles and looks like original Turbocharger. Time may tell.

I allowed the engine to idle for about twenty minutes with the occasional blip on the Throttle to rev up. After which time the Radiator Fan came on strongly. I activated the 19-7 setting on the IPK and watched the reading climb up to 110c ... that after now say thirty minutes. Holding the engine at 2,500 rpm for some seconds soon saw the reading drop down towards 100c. Not entirely happy with things so will monitor closely again tomorrow. Car stationary during the whole time so no air through radiator as would be the case driving along. That may expalin the high readings. Seen that before with other cars.

On first start up today the Cam Followers were noisy. Like an old clackitty Diesel. At least one very noisy. All appeared to settle down to an acceptable level of noise when the engine became fully warmed up some ten~fifteen minutes later..

Ran my rebuilt 1.8T Engine up to temperature today with occasional burst from idle up to 3500-4000 revs for a few seconds. Some steam from the twin exhaust pipes on start up cold ( heavy frost overnight ) but nowhere near what it was on that very first start up. Checked the Filler Cap and Dip Stick looking for things I did not want to see. Clear as a Bell...all good signs.

Even so, only when it's out on the road will I really see if the job has been the success I hoped for. So far the engine rebuild is looking very good. The noisy valve gear has settled down. I will drain the oil and fill the sump with Diesel Fuel and run the engine like that as this has been a very effective engine flush in the past for me. Done it several times but, as I stressed before, I am NOT recommending others do this, only that it works very effectively for me. However, I have a nagging doubt in my mind that most of that steam previously was from a worn Turbocharger allowing coolant to enter the exhaust in some way. No signs of any oil where it should not be and with the engine at fast idle and my hand hovering above the open Oil Filler, no signs of any piston Blow By ...... those new Pistons, Rings and Cylinder Liner are looking good... so far.

Few images taken today. All with engine running. :~

.







Dipstick oil looks fine too.

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Old 8th February 2020, 09:12   #45
Lovel
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I can’t see that there is any path for the coolant to leak via the turbo. Oil yes but not coolant going into the inlet side. Unless there was a crack in the turbo housing or your inlet manifold is not compressing the elastomer gasket sufficiently, ie warped and/or the bronze coloured bushes have pulled through the manifold
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Old 8th February 2020, 18:14   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovel View Post
I can’t see that there is any path for the coolant to leak via the turbo. Oil yes but not coolant going into the inlet side. Unless there was a crack in the turbo housing or your inlet manifold is not compressing the elastomer gasket sufficiently, ie warped and/or the bronze coloured bushes have pulled through the manifold
Today's update.

Got the engine thoroughly warmed up and the steam-mist from the twin Silencer pipes was minimal throughout. Did not want to stress the new Pistons, Rings and Cylinder Liners as they will need bedding in but, gave the throttle a few blasts up around 4,000 rpm and there was a brief puff of steam but only a fraction of what happened soon after that first warm up. Still more than I hoped to see though although very brief and not continuous as with that first start-up.

So things are improving. I started my MG6 1.8T parked alongside at the time as a yardstick measure and there was almost no steam from that car's exhaust cold engine or fully warmed up.

I may drill a small hole in the silencer to allow any accumulated rain water or condensation ( built up after well over a year unused ) to drain. This worked well on my other ZT-T. Quite a lot of water immediately drained out from the small hole I drilled. It certainly reduced those clouds of white steam on cold morning start ups. MoT Emissions not affected ..



I fitted a Klarius Silencer myself... to both cars :~



Jury still out but, most signs are positive ..... so far.
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Old 11th February 2020, 23:15   #47
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Default Auto-Centre Punch deployed to good effect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovel View Post

If the liners are proving particularly tight to shift this is an indication itself the the top of the spigot where the liner locates has mushroomed significantly. Typical symptoms are initial movement of 1/4” (due to slight undercut on liner allows some relief) or so and then starting to bind.
Some subsequent conclusions :~

That could be the case here Gary but, from my investigations since including a clean up of the original liners and their housings in the block, they were held tightly due to corrosion between their steel and the alloy block interfaces where they touch. Almost certainly caused by use of poor anti-freeze. Removing the surface corrosion firstly with a light pass with a wire brush in a circular drill, finishing off with some worn wet and dry 180 grade used wet on the liners. Then those liners would relocate without any need for undue force. I'm taking that as a positive sign of no serious over heating damage to the block.

I did use all four shims to raise the NEW Liners along with the MLS Cylinder Head Gasket with its head saver shim.

I am pleased with the results... so far. All the signs are positive but me being me, I'm not counting my chickens just yet. Even that excess of steam on cold engine start up has cleared. I plan to drill very small holes in the rear Silencer at both ends at their lowest points to allow any water or condensation trapped or accumulated in there to drain. I had clouds of steam from my other ZT-T 1.8T on cold start ups until I did this ... lots of water drained out. Then mist from exhaust on start up hugely reduced to normal cold engine start levels.



Thanks to the helpful advice from members on this site, I bought one of the Auto-Centre Punches a few days ago. Actually bought two giving one to my son for his tool box.

Used it to punch a guide for the drill bit to put a small drain hole in the lowest part of the car's rear exhaust silencer. The first time I pressed the Punch fully, it soon put a start punch depression where I wanted to drill. Keeping the punch in that first start location I pressed it a few more times and it made the punch depression deeper. Just what I wanted to stop the drill bit wandering from where I want to drill.

For good measure I put another hole in the far opposite end of the silencer body at its lowest point. Reason for this being there's a slope in front of my garage so any condensation build up will drain no matter which way I park the car on the slope.

Unlike when I did this on my daily driver ZT-T, no moisture drained out this time. Pleased about this. I had let the car idle several time over the past few days until the engine got hot enough to switch on the Radiator Fan. The fan would run for a few minutes at maximum revs and then switch off automatically. With the engine still running, with the occasional "blip" on the throttle pedal to get up some revs briefly, the Fan again came on.

All this before I drill the two holes in the Silencer today. So it looks like this has at last cleared moisture trapped in the Exhaust System which created masses of team Clouds out the Exhaust those first engine start ups immediately after completing the engine rebuild. The level of moisture out of the exhaust now on cold days with high humidity is about what you can expect with any car in current weather conditions, even new cars. Hardly anything to be concerned about.

Well impressed with that Auto-Centre Punch. Very effective in putting a start hole in several jobs since I got it.

eBay item number:302893861585

I paid £5.50p for two posted. Excellent value. If the pictures used are correct, the same item is listed by others for around ten quid!
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