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Old 23rd January 2020, 19:58   #21
chris75
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Intriguing ! I think one of the most telling things was that you had difficulty in entering the tappets into their bores . Maybe someone has been there before , and after all , your reason for starting the job was to correct a previous error
The 7 lb persuader may not have helped
Good luck with the reassembly ; will you be rebuilding what you have or fitting any new parts whist you have it off ? My reason for dismantling my heads was to replace the valve stem oil seals and stop the blue smoke on startup .
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Old 24th January 2020, 15:58   #22
Fred Byrne
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I manged to obtain a secondhand head from a car that had done 50,000 miles. So I decided to swop heads hope its the correct decision. I spent the morning cleaning it and changing the camshafts over as the new??? head came from a 190.I have checked that the new head's face is flat. I noted how small the valve collets are and decided not to remove anymore valves. The collets on the P4 are gigantic by comparison and correspondingly easy to fit. I'll use a block and tackle to refit the head. My muscles are not what they once were; wear and tear I suppose. Do you think I should fit a new thermostat? It's easy to get at now but won't be in a few days time. I am now sure that soomeone was here before because the cylinder head bolts were all tightened to different torques. One bolt was almost loose. I now suspect the garage that fitted the timing belt got the settings wrong , bent a valve or two and had to do a quick repair job before handing it back. It's a theory anyway. The belt was fitted when the 5 year time period was up. it had only covered 30,000 miles. The garage owner who sold the car to my brother had retired and closed down the business. So John had to find a new garage. it's a theory anyway.

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Old 24th January 2020, 17:06   #23
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Very well done , Fred ; sounds like you are on the home straight now You are right about those tiny collets , the only way I could handle them was by hanging them off the end of a magnetic screwdriver . And I dropped them a lot !
Re the thermostat , on balance I would personally renew it whilst it is exposed . But there are two schools of thought here . One says do it all whilst you are in there and avoid having to go back for a long time, and the other says if it ain't broke don't fix it and that the new parts will be rubbish quality compared to the old ones and won't last as long anyway
Sounds like you'll never know just what went wrong and when , but your theory about a past bodged job sounds fair enough to me
Out of interest , you mentioned varying loose head bolts ; was the head you have taken off flat or might it have been distorted ?
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Old 24th January 2020, 20:37   #24
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Thanks for that. Domestic duties took over this afternoon unfortunately. Divorce is not a good plan. I'll check the head tomorrow.
Regards,

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Old 30th January 2020, 16:52   #25
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I re-assembled and fitted the cylinder head. The engine is still siezed! I'm afraid that I'll find serious damage in the rear end of the engine. I mean by that the rear bank. Am feeling a bit miserable and wonder how much longer I can continue with this. However so much has been dismantled that removing the rear head is not a major problem. When I removed the exhaust cam wheel the key had a small step cut into it. So that the crossection of the key was "Z" shaped. It looked as though it had been deliberately filed . I wonder why! There is probably enough meat left on the key to hold but I suppose I'll have to look for a replacement. Patience is wearing thin I can assure you.

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Old 30th January 2020, 19:57   #26
chris75
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It's certainly sounding like someone has been in there before you , Fred , and not done a good job ! I think you already know that the only way to go is onwards and take off the other head , and see what you see . The rear head is a long stretch into the engine , and you will need help lifting it off . Remind yourself that when working on engines is not being a pain in the ar*e , it can be fun
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Old 3rd February 2020, 16:57   #27
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Head is now off. Both exhaust valves on No.2 cylinder decapitated. Cylinder liner cracked and possible damage to piston. The other cylinders are OK. Where is the best source for liner and piston? I notice Rimmer has pistons at £200 approximately and also a very much cheaper alternative. I am a believer in that "you get what you pay for" but the discrepancy between the two prices is enormous. Anyway it's sump off on Wednesday and then I shall see what I shall see!
I presume I can replace liner and piston with head and sump off.
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Old 3rd February 2020, 17:14   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Byrne View Post
I presume I can replace liner and piston with head and sump off.
Before someone who has actually done the job comes along to give you the definitive answer, this is what RAVE says.

The answer is basically yes, but first the lower crankcase has to be removed (11 bolts) then the bearing ladder (16 bolts). Before that you'll have the oil pick-up strainer, crankshaft timing gear and oil seals (front & rear) and oil pump on the bench.

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Old 3rd February 2020, 17:27   #29
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Ouch!!!!
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Old 3rd February 2020, 19:47   #30
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It’s an engine out job to remove a conrod on a KV6. Slightly different configuration from the K-series unfortunately. There is a casting in the lower half (bearing ladder) that contains a baffle/drain and that cannot be removed.



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