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Old 7th January 2020, 20:57   #11
Yorkshire GOC
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Rover 75 connoisseur se v6 auto

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When my 1.8T has misfired its been coil packs/leads failing -last time you could here the crackle of earthing electrical charge when you started the engine with the bonnet up.
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She came off the Longbridge Line on 20-05-2003

The Silver Machine was the 13th of 160 Rover 75's to come off the production line that day and is the 100th of 527 Starlight Silver Rover 75 2.5 V6 Connoisseur SE Auto saloons listed in the build records produced world wide.
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Old 7th January 2020, 21:41   #12
Lovel
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Rav, if it’s DYV then I have been through all the well known points including multiple NGK plugs, gaps, leads, multiple coil packs, multiple solenoid valves, turbo waste gate hose retention, turbo waste gate hinge, leaking hoses, inlet manifold leaks, exhaust manifold leaks fuel rail pressure, fuel rail regulator, fuel filters, in rear too and never got to the bottom of it. If you search some previous posts over the years you will see what I mean. Cylinder compression is absolutely spot on there are no bent exhaust valves etc. The majority of the time DYV was a superb full throttle machine for me, just now and again as you have noticed you experience an momentary annoying blip in performance.

BTW if memory serves me right the boost gauge plumbing is still all there and blanked of under the steering column. I ran some posts with my results with the 160 and 200map which I was never happy with.

You are perhaps spoiled for choice on rolling roads down your way as that would have been the way I would have gone had I continued the tenure.
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Old 9th January 2020, 18:49   #13
Synchromesh
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Have you confirmed that the pivot point where the actuator rod joins the wastegate lever is not seized?


When mine was seized on a 1.8T ZT the car pulled really well until it hit 4000rpm then the ignition cut out. Overboost pressure operated switch that cuts ignition LT supply. Revs dropped, ignition cut in and engine pulled to 4000rpm again. The cycle kept repeating and it was impossible to drive through it. If yours drives through 4000rpm your waste gate pivot is not jammed. This does assume you have not bypassed the pressure switch.


It was a few years ago. I don't think I tried gentle throttle pressure to see if I could get past 4000rpm. From under the car (use good axle stands or blocks to support the car) it is easy to lever off the clip with a screwdriver and then see if the link will lift off the waste gate lever. Mine was solid. I can't remember how I got it off. Probably WD40 and persistence. I cleaned the pin on the waste gate lever and I cleaned the hole in the end of the link then applied a high temperature anti seize spray before I reassembled. After that I pulled the actuator pipe off the pressure switch once a month and applied a few psi to the actuator a few times with an electric air pump to exercise the actuator and hence the waste gate pivot. The alternative is to exercise it with your right foot but that costs a fortune in petrol!
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