Front Lower suspension arm woes - Page 2

Ross R75 · 9th May 2017, 19:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

Some after market arms are a bit too thick at the rear end, or have thicker seam/cast markings, that make it hard to get new bushes on. You could try filing them down a bit at the back, and I normally use silicone grease to help the new bushes on. I find this better than fairy liquid. KY jelly also works well, so I am told (it also helps put your rear bushes on your lower arms).

Pete

Thanks Pete. They're FAI arms and bushes. You'd guess they'd make their own bushes fit their arms?

cossie dunc · 9th May 2017, 19:06

These are a funny thing to replace, having replaced probably hundreds of them over the years, no two are the same.

Some just fall off and back on again others take a bit of fiddling and some take hours

The worst one I remember. The inner ball joint broke inside the subframe leaving me with a bit of threaded rod stuck inside it

Saga Lout · 9th May 2017, 19:17

Put the new arms in the freezer overnight and the new bush should go on easier...

genpk · 10th May 2017, 09:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie dunc

These are a funny thing to replace, having replaced probably hundreds of them over the years, no two are the same.

Some just fall off and back on again others take a bit of fiddling and some take hours

The worst one I remember. The inner ball joint broke inside the subframe leaving me with a bit of threaded rod stuck inside it

You are so right, did 2 of my cars wishbones last week, all original arms.
One car , the arms came out quite easy the other was a nightmare to remove and replace .Seens to me the drivers side is harder to do.

Ross R75 · 11th May 2017, 21:50

Successful conclusion. NS arm and rear bush now fitted to the car. Huge difference in how she drives. No clonking, no wayward steering and no jolt when hitting the accelerator. It's like driving a new car.

New Delphi track rod ends going on tomorrow.

DMGRS · 12th May 2017, 17:55

We found they were a pain to assemble too, so made sure ours were supplied with the arms and bushes already assembled.
We now don't supply the arms on their own, to save people the grief...

Sounds like you're winning, anyway!

Ross R75 · 13th May 2017, 08:36

The offending item:

Simulator · 27th June 2017, 13:41

Thanks lads, I've got to do my lowers and now I'm really really looking forward to it. She's clonking along like a tin of bolts, drives well tho'. Thing is, why have some of you bothered with bush on the rear bearing as you can buy these complete - or are the fitted bushes inferior.

genpk · 27th June 2017, 22:09

It not sure what you mean.
There are two types of bushes, standard rubber ones or polyflex bushes.
Either way, there both pains to get onto the arms, only advantage is the polyflex bushes will rotate whilst on the the arm to line up the holes so can be bolted easier.
I did one of my 75s a while back and the passenger side was easy but had a torrid time on the drivers side trying to line up and bolt the bush in place.
Ended up cross threading one of the bolts and had to re cut the thread.
Drivers side an absolute pig to get to.
That's not even getting into removing the arms !!

SD1too · 5th April 2021, 06:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross R75

Inner ball joint wouldn't release for love nor money, even when dropping the weight of the car onto the stud. Finally got it off by hammering a fork type ball joint splitter in ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by genpk

... the tapered ball joint would not move, tried heat, bars, leverage. Finally got a large plumbers adjustable crescent and belted it in between the arm and sub frame- after and hour of belting it finally separated!

Quote:

Originally Posted by cossie dunc

The inner ball joint broke inside the subframe leaving me with a bit of threaded rod stuck inside it.

To all members in the future struggling with this, I have found the perfect tool. It's fiddly to set-up but once secure will release the inner balljoint without damage in a minute.

It's the Sykes Pickavant two legged adjustable puller, part number 0830 0000 and it's not expensive.

Have fun!

Simon

9th May 2017, 19:06	#12
cossie dunc I really should get out more....... rover 75 contemporary se cdti + rover 75 connie cdti work horse Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: West lothian Posts: 2,258 Thanks: 217 Thanked 424 Times in 189 Posts	These are a funny thing to replace, having replaced probably hundreds of them over the years, no two are the same. Some just fall off and back on again others take a bit of fiddling and some take hours The worst one I remember. The inner ball joint broke inside the subframe leaving me with a bit of threaded rod stuck inside it __________________ TOO MANY ROVERS @ CDL autotec Scotland's rover 75/mg zt service,repair & enthusiast centre Used parts.....servicing.......mechanical repairs.......modifications Call Duncan 07415 251 705

9th May 2017, 19:17	#13
Saga Lout This is my second home MG ZT and Rover 75, Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Wigan Posts: 3,276 Thanks: 2,556 Thanked 2,685 Times in 1,037 Posts	Try this. Put the new arms in the freezer overnight and the new bush should go on easier...

11th May 2017, 21:50	#15
Ross R75 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,535 Thanks: 137 Thanked 229 Times in 156 Posts	Successful conclusion. NS arm and rear bush now fitted to the car. Huge difference in how she drives. No clonking, no wayward steering and no jolt when hitting the accelerator. It's like driving a new car. New Delphi track rod ends going on tomorrow. __________________ Copperleaf R75 CDT 160

12th May 2017, 17:55	#16
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	We found they were a pain to assemble too, so made sure ours were supplied with the arms and bushes already assembled. We now don't supply the arms on their own, to save people the grief... Sounds like you're winning, anyway! __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

13th May 2017, 08:36	#17
Ross R75 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,535 Thanks: 137 Thanked 229 Times in 156 Posts	The offending item: __________________ Copperleaf R75 CDT 160

27th June 2017, 13:41	#18
Simulator Regular poster Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Newhaven Posts: 36 Thanks: 35 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts	Thanks lads, I've got to do my lowers and now I'm really really looking forward to it. She's clonking along like a tin of bolts, drives well tho'. Thing is, why have some of you bothered with bush on the rear bearing as you can buy these complete - or are the fitted bushes inferior.

27th June 2017, 22:09	#19
genpk Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon MGZT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Perth, AUSTRALIA Posts: 1,664 Thanks: 3 Thanked 461 Times in 299 Posts	It not sure what you mean. There are two types of bushes, standard rubber ones or polyflex bushes. Either way, there both pains to get onto the arms, only advantage is the polyflex bushes will rotate whilst on the the arm to line up the holes so can be bolted easier. I did one of my 75s a while back and the passenger side was easy but had a torrid time on the drivers side trying to line up and bolt the bush in place. Ended up cross threading one of the bolts and had to re cut the thread. Drivers side an absolute pig to get to. That's not even getting into removing the arms !!