Handbrake adjustment issues

[topman]

I've noticed that I seem to be getting less and less miles per tank. I had a look and thought it might the back discs warped so I changed them along with the pads. Now I decided to do the handbrake adjustment per haynes manual but I can't seem to get it in. It's either hold on the third click well but then still hard to turn the hub when the handbrake is off or free to turn when the hb is off but needs about 6 or seven clicks to hold it. There seems to be nothing in between. Anyone seen this before?


I use as a test; will it stall the car if I engage first and try and pull away with no accelerator.

[HarryM1BYT]

Warped disks will not normally make any difference to fuel consumption, the warpage will still push the pads out of the way, in fact the operation of pads depends upon some slight distortortion to push them out out of the way.

So far as the handbrake is concerned, ignore Haynes and ignore Rovers methods. You ought to check and maybe replace the compensator, as this causes so many issues, if you have not done so already. Then do the following..

1. Slack off the adjuster nut at the front completely.

2. Adjust at the hubs so that the hubs are completely locked up solid, then back off very slightly, just enough to enable free movement. A slight rubbing is acceptable.

3. Re-adjust the nut at the front, to take up all slack in the cable and set it so that the hubs still remain free, but at one click the brake is starting to work - it should be almost good enough to hold it against your pushing the car on a level surface.

Two clicks should then hold it in almost any circumstances, three should leave tyre marks if you drive the car against the handbrake.

Most adjust at the hub so that the shoes are well clear, which is wrong.

[topman]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Warped disks will not normally make any difference to fuel consumption, the warpage will still push the pads out of the way, in fact the operation of pads depends upon some slight distortortion to push them out out of the way.

So far as the handbrake is concerned, ignore Haynes and ignore Rovers methods. You ought to check and maybe replace the compensator, as this causes so many issues, if you have not done so already. Then do the following..

1. Slack off the adjuster nut at the front completely.

2. Adjust at the hubs so that the hubs are completely locked up solid, then back off very slightly, just enough to enable free movement. A slight rubbing is acceptable.

3. Re-adjust the nut at the front, to take up all slack in the cable and set it so that the hubs still remain free, but at one click the brake is starting to work - it should be almost good enough to hold it against your pushing the car on a level surface.

Two clicks should then hold it in almost any circumstances, three should leave tyre marks if you drive the car against the handbrake.

Most adjust at the hub so that the shoes are well clear, which is wrong.

I was fairly sure it wasn't them to be honest, the only real reason was they were very badly corroded and the MOT is coming up.

I'll look into the compensator.

The way I was doing it, to get it so it was solid on three clicks, it was very stiff to rotate even with the handbrake off.


I'll try the method you suggest and see if it works.

Thanks harry

[HarryM1BYT]

The only difference the compensator makes, is that as it stretches, the the correct adjustment point for the nut will then be nearer the bottom end of the thread - as if the cables had streched. There should be a gap between the two parts of the compensator of around 1mm, but we are finding in some that gap has been stretched to 7 or 8mm.

In trying to get the correct adjustment at the nut, often the nut will be tightened down to the point where it runs out of thread and then it jams, making it extremely difficult to get back off.

If you were referring to the nut being tight to turn, it is supposed to be - its a nyloc nut.

[topman]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

The only difference the compensator makes, is that as it stretches, the the correct adjustment point for the nut will then be nearer the bottom end of the thread - as if the cables had streched. There should be a gap between the two parts of the compensator of around 1mm, but we are finding in some that gap has been stretched to 7 or 8mm.

In trying to get the correct adjustment at the nut, often the nut will be tightened down to the point where it runs out of thread and then it jams, making it extremely difficult to get back off.

If you were referring to the nut being tight to turn, it is supposed to be - its a nyloc nut.

Sorry Harry for being so late replying. As for the tight rotation I meant the rear hubs as being tight. That was the original problem low miles per tank giving rise to something being stuck and giving too much resistance. Maybe calipers sticking, the new pads do seem to be bedding in more on the outer portion of the disc than the inner.