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Old 2nd November 2019, 13:40   #31
YHT
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"Yes i thought about it, but i was scarred by the memory of messing up the floor pan of my 1974 Hillman Imp back in the 80’s, and decided against it.

My MOT guy made the point that yes you can spot weld on a complete sill, because that is a complete panel with the strength it should have and the same as leaving the factory, but where a hole is concerned it needs to be seam welded simply to restore the strength to the panel. Spot welding around a hole would still leave the panel weakened. Made sense to me anyway."

That brings back memories of welding sills on the wife's Hillman Imp several decades ago with an arc welder. At least the perforations the welding made let the water out (as well as in). MIG welding seems much more controllable and you can see what you are doing with the self darkening face mask. After some practice I managed to make a weld that didn't look too much like mouse droppings.
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Old 2nd November 2019, 13:59   #32
David Lawrence
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"Yes i thought about it, but i was scarred by the memory of messing up the floor pan of my 1974 Hillman Imp back in the 80’s, and decided against it.

That brings back memories of welding sills on the wife's Hillman Imp several decades ago with an arc welder. At least the perforations the welding made let the water out (as well as in). MIG welding seems much more controllable and you can see what you are doing with the self darkening face mask. After some practice I managed to make a weld that didn't look too much like mouse droppings.
In my case the drivers seat mounting had a crack around its bolt down location in the floor so the seat tended to creak and tilt backwards when on the move. I assumed at the time that welding would be just the same as soldering only with a welding rod instead of solder. A few arcs later with my trusty arc welder and I went from a cracked seat mount to no seat mount. I learned my limitations with that one and never got the determination to try again. Although you did tempt me to look at MIG welders.......briefly
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Old 2nd November 2019, 15:14   #33
RogerHeinz57
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Brian.---I note you did not get much response to your accurate assessment to that unsatisfactory bit of welding.

Either they don't agree or you have shamed them into hiding away in a corner somewhere.-------To the corner.---
We have the choice to be either childish and conduct futile aggressive arguments, or take it in and move on.
The weld could be better however the cost was very small and was sufficient for test. So the provocation is quite purposeless. Be my guest and squabble amongst yourselves, but I have more pressing issues to deal with
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Old 2nd November 2019, 19:11   #34
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We have the choice to be either childish and conduct futile aggressive arguments, or take it in and move on.
The weld could be better however the cost was very small and was sufficient for test. So the provocation is quite purposeless. Be my guest and squabble amongst yourselves, but I have more pressing issues to deal with
.
Did you find Brian's post provocative ?

I got the impression it was meant to be factual.

I guess we all see things in a different way and have the right to our own opinions.--


One of the things that brings this home is if you ask an opinion from a number of different folk who have all witnessed the same road accident. - You will be more than likely to get several very different answers.---


Life's like that.---No offence intended just differing view points.---
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Old 2nd November 2019, 20:08   #35
David Lawrence
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Looking a bit better with grey primer instead of black.

Weld line is visible in a few places, and over did it with the stone chip protection, but it will keep it protected for the winter until i can get back to smooth it down and get a top coat on it.

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Old 2nd November 2019, 23:25   #36
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Remember primer is porous to moisture so you'll need to get some gloss over it to protect the metal underneath.
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Old 3rd November 2019, 12:52   #37
David Lawrence
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Remember primer is porous to moisture so you'll need to get some gloss over it to protect the metal underneath.
Thanks for that bit of advice. Actually didnt know that primer is porous, so came as a great help, otherwise i could envisage returning to the car next month to find it red with rust again.

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Old 3rd November 2019, 12:57   #38
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Originally Posted by patrolman pete View Post
Remember primer is porous to moisture so you'll need to get some gloss over it to protect the metal underneath.
A bit of gloss to keep the moisture out till I can get back to finish iť


Main issue is it needs a bit of filler just at the back to smooth out the weld line and i need to do something about the join line between the stone guard and the normal painted section. I put it on too thick and when i pulled the masking tape away it left a witness line that is thicker than i wanted so I will have to do that again when i get more time.
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Old 3rd November 2019, 16:05   #39
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Thanks for that bit of advice. Actually didnt know that primer is porous, so came as a great help, otherwise i could envisage returning to the car next month to find it red with rust again.
Actually if you splash some clean water onto the primer you will see it immediately sink straight in.-----

With gloss it slides straight off.--It went thataway.--
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