How heavy is the gearbox

Amsca2 · 17th November 2015, 13:01

Hi all I'm going square eyed going through old threads so here goes. I think my clutch plate went the other week. I can engage gears and the pedal has the usual pressure etc but I can't get drive from the engine. The two truck mechanic agreed it was likely the plate so I'm in the middle of stripping it but I've heard the box is heavy. How heavy? And don't say very

I've just driveshafts to pop and mounts to go but weather's been terrible so it's this weekend. Going to fit new slave and clutch plate. Any other look outs I should watch for. I'm a experienced ammatuer.

EastPete · 17th November 2015, 13:24

The gearbox is heavy- I would guess at 50 Kg or more. I can just about lift it to shift it a few inches around the workshop, but I would probably do myself an injury trying to lift it up completely. Andy Willi swapped the gearbox on my car a few weeks back, and he just dragged it across the floor when moving it. When splitting the gearbox from the engine, you need to support the engine with one jack, and get a trolley jack under the gearbox as you split the box- some sort of support of the box from above is probably a good idea as well, to steady the box as it comes away from the engine. You want to avoid hanging the weight of the box on the input shaft as it comes away from the engine. I have seen Andy do it, and it is a bit of a balancing act - if I was doing it on my own I would probably use an engine crane attached to the top of the box to hold it whilst separating the engine/box.

There are some 'how to's' on this site where someone used a ratchet strap rigged up to the gearbox mounting bracket points to help support/steady the box as it is separated.

Good luck - let us know how you get on.

Pete

Amsca2 · 17th November 2015, 14:50

Cheers. So very heavy at 50kg. I was planning on using engine crane to hold engine but I will support it on a Jack and use crane for gearbox now. Bought a Haynes manual today just to read through and make sure I'd sussed the job correctly.

EastPete · 17th November 2015, 15:22

Haynes will probably tell you to completely remove the subframe for this job. This is not really necessary - the subframe can be lowered a couple of inches on the nearside (after unbolting the steering rack and coolant pipe from the subframe), enough to allow the gearbox to be slid sideways and rested on the subframe, giving access to the clutch assembly. Have a good look in the 'how to' section on this site, where someone describes how to change the clutch slave cylinder using this method.

I assume you will change the clutch slave as well as the pressure/driven plates - it is false economy not too. Also, use only good quality clutch parts - LUK or Borg and Beck, with possibly the all-metal slave cylinder now available from Xpart - you will regret using cheap clutch parts in the long run (as I know from bitter experience !)
Keep us posted

Pete

FrenchMike · 17th November 2015, 16:19

Hi,

I found the box too heavy for me ...have a look here!

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=45125

Good luck

Mike

Amsca2 · 17th November 2015, 16:24

You had me worried when you said use the expensive parts. I had already priced luk at just shy of 200 from eurocar parts so relieved to see they were the same brand. It does say to remove subframe but it wasn't on my to do list. Slave being done as well. My expertise lies in the k series rovers so just plodding through making sure I don't make any silly mistakes. I'm on a kindle and can't get search function to work hence I gave up and posted.

mh007 · 17th November 2015, 16:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amsca2

Hi all I'm going square eyed going through old threads so here goes. I think my clutch plate went the other week. I can engage gears and the pedal has the usual pressure etc but I can't get drive from the engine. The two truck mechanic agreed it was likely the plate so I'm in the middle of stripping it but I've heard the box is heavy. How heavy? And don't say very

I've just driveshafts to pop and mounts to go but weather's been terrible so it's this weekend. Going to fit new slave and clutch plate. Any other look outs I should watch for. I'm a experienced ammatuer.

I would also suggest you thoroughly check the DMF too whilst you have the box out, especially if you can't see any evidence of the centre plate being damaged.

As already said, fit all 3 parts of the clutch (only quality items) & DMF if needed.

andy willi · 17th November 2015, 17:35

hi
if you call me tomorrow i will explain all easy to do have done many it,s the way you do it that counts .

andy

17th November 2015, 13:01	#1
Amsca2 Gets stuck in MG ZT-T cdti Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Grangemouth Posts: 521 Thanks: 60 Thanked 93 Times in 80 Posts	How heavy is the gearbox Hi all I'm going square eyed going through old threads so here goes. I think my clutch plate went the other week. I can engage gears and the pedal has the usual pressure etc but I can't get drive from the engine. The two truck mechanic agreed it was likely the plate so I'm in the middle of stripping it but I've heard the box is heavy. How heavy? And don't say very I've just driveshafts to pop and mounts to go but weather's been terrible so it's this weekend. Going to fit new slave and clutch plate. Any other look outs I should watch for. I'm a experienced ammatuer.

17th November 2015, 13:24	#2
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	The gearbox is heavy- I would guess at 50 Kg or more. I can just about lift it to shift it a few inches around the workshop, but I would probably do myself an injury trying to lift it up completely. Andy Willi swapped the gearbox on my car a few weeks back, and he just dragged it across the floor when moving it. When splitting the gearbox from the engine, you need to support the engine with one jack, and get a trolley jack under the gearbox as you split the box- some sort of support of the box from above is probably a good idea as well, to steady the box as it comes away from the engine. You want to avoid hanging the weight of the box on the input shaft as it comes away from the engine. I have seen Andy do it, and it is a bit of a balancing act - if I was doing it on my own I would probably use an engine crane attached to the top of the box to hold it whilst separating the engine/box. There are some 'how to's' on this site where someone used a ratchet strap rigged up to the gearbox mounting bracket points to help support/steady the box as it is separated. Good luck - let us know how you get on. Pete

17th November 2015, 14:50	#3
Amsca2 Gets stuck in MG ZT-T cdti Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Grangemouth Posts: 521 Thanks: 60 Thanked 93 Times in 80 Posts	Cheers. So very heavy at 50kg. I was planning on using engine crane to hold engine but I will support it on a Jack and use crane for gearbox now. Bought a Haynes manual today just to read through and make sure I'd sussed the job correctly.

17th November 2015, 15:22	#4
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Haynes will probably tell you to completely remove the subframe for this job. This is not really necessary - the subframe can be lowered a couple of inches on the nearside (after unbolting the steering rack and coolant pipe from the subframe), enough to allow the gearbox to be slid sideways and rested on the subframe, giving access to the clutch assembly. Have a good look in the 'how to' section on this site, where someone describes how to change the clutch slave cylinder using this method. I assume you will change the clutch slave as well as the pressure/driven plates - it is false economy not too. Also, use only good quality clutch parts - LUK or Borg and Beck, with possibly the all-metal slave cylinder now available from Xpart - you will regret using cheap clutch parts in the long run (as I know from bitter experience !) Keep us posted Pete

17th November 2015, 16:19	#5
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Hi, I found the box too heavy for me ...have a look here! http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=45125 Good luck Mike

17th November 2015, 16:24	#6
Amsca2 Gets stuck in MG ZT-T cdti Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Grangemouth Posts: 521 Thanks: 60 Thanked 93 Times in 80 Posts	You had me worried when you said use the expensive parts. I had already priced luk at just shy of 200 from eurocar parts so relieved to see they were the same brand. It does say to remove subframe but it wasn't on my to do list. Slave being done as well. My expertise lies in the k series rovers so just plodding through making sure I don't make any silly mistakes. I'm on a kindle and can't get search function to work hence I gave up and posted.

17th November 2015, 17:35	#8
andy willi I really should get out more....... PRE LAUNCH 75/ZT 190/XJ 550 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: carcroft doncaster Posts: 2,866 Thanks: 101 Thanked 680 Times in 342 Posts	hi if you call me tomorrow i will explain all easy to do have done many it,s the way you do it that counts . andy