Start/stop button install - Page 5

chris75 · 16th July 2017, 20:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Really a shame with the complicated picture posting procedure!

Kaiser , I am a little puzzled as to your difficulty ; have you not tried the attachment procedure in the reply window ? If you use the paperclip symbol on the toolbar you can browse your pc and upload pictures from your hard-drive as a thumbnail . Click on it and it will display full size , in sequence if there are several.The size is limited but so long as you can resize a large pic before uploading , then no problem .

I have always done it this way .
Sample attached

Rsnail · 17th July 2017, 05:53

Ok so basically when you put your foot on the pedal the switch should let current flow to the unit. I'll find a switch and make an improvisation somehow. So the whole button thing is finished I guess. Now, the only issues remaining are regarding the PKE system, which translates to passive keyless entry (lockimg and unlocking the doors automatically), but for this, I definitely need a wirimg diagram of the car, anubody knows where I can find one? I need to know for example if the side door wire is negative or positive trigger, also the open and closed signal wires, I can't get my head around the Haynes manual, for example the only wiring diagram I found for the ignition barrel connections was only giving me the colors of the wires and which pin nr it is, but it wasn't saying for example pin nr 1 is red and it it 12v live so that you know it's function...

murphyv310 · 17th July 2017, 09:00

You will get a full diagram off Rave. You can now buy this I believe from Xpart, not 100% sure about where but it is available, someone will help you there though.

3pinplug · 17th July 2017, 18:39

Fee and Dont give up you will get there, bet you're glad you asked with some of the responses you've had!

Rsnail · 17th July 2017, 19:36

Got the Rave CD, which is basically a Haynes with some extra things I guess (never owned a Haynes manual, I am just guessing from stuff posted from the Haynes that I saw around on the forums). By the way, figured out the ignition side of things, as far as I can see, we have 1 ACC wire, 1 ON wire, 1 Starter wire and 2 12v live wires in the ignition switch connector.

Now the only things remaining are the central locking system wires for keyless entry (unlocking when you approach the car) which I have no idea where to pick them up from and where to find info on, I would have the open signal and closed signal wires which would be either negative or positive polarity (negative
trigger or positive trigger).

These and another wire that in the button manual is called side door wire, which I also don't know what it's for and where I can find it.

Rsnail · 18th July 2017, 21:31

Side door wire also figured it out, it's for the alarm if the doors are somehow opened in an intrusive way, which you can not use, and instead connect the wire from the kit's unit to the courtesy light wire, (since they automatically go on in the case of an opened door).

Now about the central locking system, this is really confusing, chewed on those Rave electrical diagrams for hours, but there still is a thing I cannot understand, into which wire should I connect the units central locking wires? Let's say I connect to the open and closing signal wires of the driver's side door, then if I press the unlocking button on the new remote that I get, would it unlock only the driver's door or are the motors working together?

All that the unit's install manual says is that you have to connect the wires to the open signal and closed signal wires, but it doesn't say if you have to connect them to a motor or to the master central door locking switch.

Rsnail · 4th August 2017, 19:30

Got a little time yesterday all day long and sorted everything out, basically deciphered the wiring diagram and electrical library of RAVE CD and found out what I needed to, unscrewed the passenger side kick panel where the BCU unit is placed, tested every wire that I need with the multimeter and so far so good, my 2000 75 2.0 V6 has 2 wires for central locking as far as I can see, basically when you press the lock button inside the car (the master switch), one wire going to the BCU gets 12v, but when you press the lock button on the key fob (superlocking), the same wire gets 12v plus another one, for unlocking there is only one wire responsible, so I will crimp the 2 locking wires to my control unit that comes with the kit to the wire responsible for locking, and the 1 unlocking wire to the unlocking wire of the control unit, and also the dome lights wire as the trigger for the alarm. Also installed a secondary switch at the clutch pedal, when the pedal is depressed, current flows to the control unit and you can remote start the car, when the pedal is released, the switch is open and no current flows to the unit for remote start. Also, regarding the immobilizer unit issue, this was the tricky part, we have an antenna on the key ignition barrel, which has 2 wires going into it, spliced one of them, put a manual switch on it, interrupted the circuit by pressing the switch, left a key inside the ignition barrel, and tried to lock the doors with another key, success! So for not needing the switch anymore, I replaced it with a relay wired to the ignition wire, so only when the key (or also when pressing the start button), only then the antenna sends data stored on the transponder chip to the immobilizer, and when you turn the engine off, the circuit in the relay is open, no data sent to the immobilizer, and you can lock the doors (you can also lock the doors when the engine is running, the transponder chip only sends the data when first turning the engine on and in ignition mode). So, with patience and a little skill I managed to put everything together I guess, my only problem now is that I have to run a wire from the upper center part of the windscreen to the driver's side kick panel, so it needs to go through the roof, "A" pillar I guess, and then to end up somehow in the kick panel, somebody helping me out with this?

Alex30013k · 7th August 2017, 21:34

how did you get on?

baxlin · 8th August 2017, 05:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex30013k

i have fitted a full start stop button, removed the steering lock, only need to change the ring around for mot so it works again,

I have done some electrical tricky to over come the immobilizer.

Boring question I know, but what did your insurer say?

COLVERT · 8th August 2017, 21:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by baxlin

Boring question I know, but what did your insurer say?

Quite possibly------------GIVE ME MONEY.--------

17th July 2017, 09:00	#43
murphyv310 This is my second home Hyundai i10 998cc Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kilmarnock Posts: 6,602 Thanks: 2,088 Thanked 2,298 Times in 1,349 Posts	You will get a full diagram off Rave. You can now buy this I believe from Xpart, not 100% sure about where but it is available, someone will help you there though. __________________ Cheers from Trevor MM0KJJ

17th July 2017, 18:39	#44
3pinplug Loves to post Rover 75 SE Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Medway Towns Posts: 311 Thanks: 0 Thanked 11 Times in 7 Posts	Fee and Dont give up you will get there, bet you're glad you asked with some of the responses you've had! __________________ Work done / to do - on "Never Ending Story"! 1. Rattling manifold - replaced. 2. Thermostat - replaced. 3. Both VIS motors - rebuilt & VIS tester made! 4. Non working speedo, fluctuating fuel gauge and ABS fault - sorted! 5. Clutch, slave and master -replaced! 6. Boot leaking badly - Done. 7. Timing belts (all 3 ) due for replacement - to do. 8. Relace faulty 3 speed fan with 2 speed with resistor - replaced. 9. Faulty Reverse light switch - replaced. 10. Headlamp bulbs - replaced

17th July 2017, 05:53	#42
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Ok so basically when you put your foot on the pedal the switch should let current flow to the unit. I'll find a switch and make an improvisation somehow. So the whole button thing is finished I guess. Now, the only issues remaining are regarding the PKE system, which translates to passive keyless entry (lockimg and unlocking the doors automatically), but for this, I definitely need a wirimg diagram of the car, anubody knows where I can find one? I need to know for example if the side door wire is negative or positive trigger, also the open and closed signal wires, I can't get my head around the Haynes manual, for example the only wiring diagram I found for the ignition barrel connections was only giving me the colors of the wires and which pin nr it is, but it wasn't saying for example pin nr 1 is red and it it 12v live so that you know it's function...

17th July 2017, 19:36	#45
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Got the Rave CD, which is basically a Haynes with some extra things I guess (never owned a Haynes manual, I am just guessing from stuff posted from the Haynes that I saw around on the forums). By the way, figured out the ignition side of things, as far as I can see, we have 1 ACC wire, 1 ON wire, 1 Starter wire and 2 12v live wires in the ignition switch connector. Now the only things remaining are the central locking system wires for keyless entry (unlocking when you approach the car) which I have no idea where to pick them up from and where to find info on, I would have the open signal and closed signal wires which would be either negative or positive polarity (negative trigger or positive trigger). These and another wire that in the button manual is called side door wire, which I also don't know what it's for and where I can find it.

18th July 2017, 21:31	#46
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Side door wire also figured it out, it's for the alarm if the doors are somehow opened in an intrusive way, which you can not use, and instead connect the wire from the kit's unit to the courtesy light wire, (since they automatically go on in the case of an opened door). Now about the central locking system, this is really confusing, chewed on those Rave electrical diagrams for hours, but there still is a thing I cannot understand, into which wire should I connect the units central locking wires? Let's say I connect to the open and closing signal wires of the driver's side door, then if I press the unlocking button on the new remote that I get, would it unlock only the driver's door or are the motors working together? All that the unit's install manual says is that you have to connect the wires to the open signal and closed signal wires, but it doesn't say if you have to connect them to a motor or to the master central door locking switch.

4th August 2017, 19:30	#47
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Got a little time yesterday all day long and sorted everything out, basically deciphered the wiring diagram and electrical library of RAVE CD and found out what I needed to, unscrewed the passenger side kick panel where the BCU unit is placed, tested every wire that I need with the multimeter and so far so good, my 2000 75 2.0 V6 has 2 wires for central locking as far as I can see, basically when you press the lock button inside the car (the master switch), one wire going to the BCU gets 12v, but when you press the lock button on the key fob (superlocking), the same wire gets 12v plus another one, for unlocking there is only one wire responsible, so I will crimp the 2 locking wires to my control unit that comes with the kit to the wire responsible for locking, and the 1 unlocking wire to the unlocking wire of the control unit, and also the dome lights wire as the trigger for the alarm. Also installed a secondary switch at the clutch pedal, when the pedal is depressed, current flows to the control unit and you can remote start the car, when the pedal is released, the switch is open and no current flows to the unit for remote start. Also, regarding the immobilizer unit issue, this was the tricky part, we have an antenna on the key ignition barrel, which has 2 wires going into it, spliced one of them, put a manual switch on it, interrupted the circuit by pressing the switch, left a key inside the ignition barrel, and tried to lock the doors with another key, success! So for not needing the switch anymore, I replaced it with a relay wired to the ignition wire, so only when the key (or also when pressing the start button), only then the antenna sends data stored on the transponder chip to the immobilizer, and when you turn the engine off, the circuit in the relay is open, no data sent to the immobilizer, and you can lock the doors (you can also lock the doors when the engine is running, the transponder chip only sends the data when first turning the engine on and in ignition mode). So, with patience and a little skill I managed to put everything together I guess, my only problem now is that I have to run a wire from the upper center part of the windscreen to the driver's side kick panel, so it needs to go through the roof, "A" pillar I guess, and then to end up somehow in the kick panel, somebody helping me out with this?

7th August 2017, 21:34	#48
Alex30013k Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon 2.0 CDTi Conn Se Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ashford Kent Posts: 1,560 Thanks: 17 Thanked 29 Times in 21 Posts	how did you get on?