ZT 1.8T Boost Pressure - 7 PSI or 9...??? - Page 2

jib64 · 2nd May 2014, 09:42

Cheers guys, haven't had fuel cut off yet (i don't think) but i have had a hell of a jolt a couple of times when pushing it, figured it was the knackered controller hoses which i have changed, rubber elbows had perished and split a bit. And yeah, nearly imprinted my face on the front glass!

Haven't dared really cane it since then, but just normal driving up hills etc sees it hit 9 psi+, at which point i bottle it and slow down lol. It doesn't seem to boost up to that level and then automatically taper off, if i keep on the gas it just keeps climbing!

It's getting to the point where i replace the solenoid just because, kinda sucks having something that will shift but am too scared to enjoy!

Dan you have got a scooby solenoid in, did you fit it just because of the extra boost from your remap? or because they have tangible benefits anyway?

Hogwarzt · 2nd May 2014, 10:03

I think you'll find the heavy jolts applying power is the effect of over boost and fuel been cut momentarily. Have you tried bypassing the boost solenoid? At least then that will eliminate the dump valve mounted on turbo.

MG Tom · 2nd May 2014, 11:13

9/10 times gapping the plugs to 0.65mm will cure any stutter at high revs, so rule that out before changing the solenoid.

localloon · 2nd May 2014, 11:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by MG Tom

9/10 times gapping the plugs to 0.65mm will cure any stutter at high revs, so rule that out before changing the solenoid.

Out of interest what are the best plugs to get? Ive recently bought some bosch plugs....and they have a 2mm gap, maybe more!

danbmx_69 · 2nd May 2014, 12:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by jib64

Dan you have got a scooby solenoid in, did you fit it just because of the extra boost from your remap? or because they have tangible benefits anyway?

a bit of both but I think they recommend them because they are a faster reacting solenoid then the O.E one

jib64 · 2nd May 2014, 13:56

I gapped my new plugs to .75, the old ones were nearer 1mm but i cant say they made much of a difference tbh

2nd May 2014, 11:13	#13
MG Tom Posted a thing or two ex. MG ZT+ Join Date: May 2013 Location: Northampton-ish Posts: 1,484 Thanks: 156 Thanked 98 Times in 95 Posts	9/10 times gapping the plugs to 0.65mm will cure any stutter at high revs, so rule that out before changing the solenoid. __________________ '03 MG ZT+ 1.8T X-Power Grey with Monogram 'WTD' black alcantara trim. [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] My project thread HERE

2nd May 2014, 13:56	#16
jib64 Avid contributor MG ZT+ 1.8T Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Grimsby Posts: 152 Thanks: 17 Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts	I gapped my new plugs to .75, the old ones were nearer 1mm but i cant say they made much of a difference tbh __________________ Big Jim's Starlight Silver Mid-Life Crisis Modifying a car is like raising kids... it costs a fortune then inevitably lets you down...!

2nd May 2014, 09:42	#11
jib64 Avid contributor MG ZT+ 1.8T Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Grimsby Posts: 152 Thanks: 17 Thanked 15 Times in 14 Posts	Cheers guys, haven't had fuel cut off yet (i don't think) but i have had a hell of a jolt a couple of times when pushing it, figured it was the knackered controller hoses which i have changed, rubber elbows had perished and split a bit. And yeah, nearly imprinted my face on the front glass! Haven't dared really cane it since then, but just normal driving up hills etc sees it hit 9 psi+, at which point i bottle it and slow down lol. It doesn't seem to boost up to that level and then automatically taper off, if i keep on the gas it just keeps climbing! It's getting to the point where i replace the solenoid just because, kinda sucks having something that will shift but am too scared to enjoy! Dan you have got a scooby solenoid in, did you fit it just because of the extra boost from your remap? or because they have tangible benefits anyway?

2nd May 2014, 10:03	#12
Hogwarzt Gets stuck in MG ZT CDTI 170BHP, PUG CC 180 Sport Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Leeds Posts: 659 Thanks: 4 Thanked 18 Times in 14 Posts	I think you'll find the heavy jolts applying power is the effect of over boost and fuel been cut momentarily. Have you tried bypassing the boost solenoid? At least then that will eliminate the dump valve mounted on turbo.