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Old 12th November 2020, 14:11   #11
chillyphil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceedy View Post
Its quite feasible to partially take off the bumper, done it a couple of times.


Pull out the Sides from the Wing ( put some masking tape on the wing to protect the paint.


then remove all the top bumper fixings, and pull it forward to get better access and leave it at an angle supporting it with something .


makes it easier to put back too ..





C
Thanks for that Chris,

Should save time and hassle, can you tell us where you put the masking tape, is it on the side of the wing or bumper sides, or under the bumper, not quite sure what you meant.

Phil
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Old 12th November 2020, 14:33   #12
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Originally Posted by chillyphil View Post
Thanks for that Chris,

Should save time and hassle, can you tell us where you put the masking tape, is it on the side of the wing or bumper sides, or under the bumper, not quite sure what you meant.

Phil



I would suggest he means taping the wing although if you have a person either side you can carefully allow the bumper to rotate forwards holding it away from the wings.
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Old 12th November 2020, 18:30   #13
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Ah really? All the v8s I've had the front ends off for headlight upgrades I've never noticed that. Thinking about it I think I remember the washer bottle neck being in the way of the access panel in the wheel arch.

If you're going through the headache of taking the bumper off personally I would swap the headlights out for some factory xenons, as the factory d2s burners last a lot longer than halogen bulbs about 95% of the xenons i work on still have the factory burners fitted to them.
Is it a like-for-like replacement? Namely unplug one, plug-in t'other, fit switch. Or will a t4 session be required along with a different switch-pack.
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Old 12th November 2020, 19:16   #14
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Is it a like-for-like replacement? Namely unplug one, plug-in t'other, fit switch. Or will a t4 session be required along with a different switch-pack.
Factory xenons are plug and play, no T4 or owt Did mine years ago
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Old 12th November 2020, 22:34   #15
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Is it a like-for-like replacement? Namely unplug one, plug-in t'other, fit switch. Or will a t4 session be required along with a different switch-pack.
Headlights from halogen to xenon is a straight swap plug and play. Only need to swap the headlights, no need to change the lsm or anything else..
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Old 13th November 2020, 07:44   #16
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Not just Rover, of course.
Just changed a bulb on the wife's Giulietta. Even with my girlie-sized hands no way to do it on the car. Loosen wheel arch liner, loosen top of bumper and peel away from body. Unbolt and remove headlight. On my old 600 changing a bulb was a 10 minute job in a car-park.
An oil change on the Giullieta involves removing the undertray which has 21 individual fixings securing it to the car. Takes more than twice as long as either the TF or ZT.
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Old 13th November 2020, 11:08   #17
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12v DC is not going to do anything unless you're holding a spanner. Then it can get very interesting lol I guess that's what you meant lol

You might think that, and 99.9% of the time you'd be right. but does depend on the person and their skin and the max deliverable current from the voltage source. It can sting!


I don't see any way that the either of the headlamp dipped bulbs can be changed without using the hatch in the wheel arch, so if it wasn't there It would need the bumper and light removal.
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Old 13th November 2020, 19:16   #18
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About ten years ago, of an evening when a light drizzle was the air, I went to my local Halfords. I parked next to a car with a French registration. As I entered the store a man in his early fifties left. I trolled around the store for about fifteen minutes, bought something or other and left. The French car had it's bonnet up and sprawled across the engine was the driver, the self-same man who left the store around fifteen minutes earlier. Dead, very. Damp night, metal zip, exposed battery terminals . . .
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Old 13th November 2020, 20:20   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldie View Post
About ten years ago, of an evening when a light drizzle was the air, I went to my local Halfords. I parked next to a car with a French registration. As I entered the store a man in his early fifties left. I trolled around the store for about fifteen minutes, bought something or other and left. The French car had it's bonnet up and sprawled across the engine was the driver, the self-same man who left the store around fifteen minutes earlier. Dead, very. Damp night, metal zip, exposed battery terminals . . .
Very interesting. Surely was a horrific experience for you. I'd be very surprised if that was due to 12v DC directly. I've inadvertently shorted a battery with a spanner and the welding sparks pretty much scared me to death, but 12v isn't enough to electrocute. I did meet a guy once who shorted around 9000v with a spanner which left him with one arm that was about eight inches long but still alive. It was the current that fried his arm which is a function of voltage and resistance. He was certainly lucky not to be electrocuted. But 12v, there would have to be something else going on there.
Of course, I'm prepared to be proven wrong. Interested in any and all comments.
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Old 13th November 2020, 21:56   #20
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Isn't it the amps that kill you?
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