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Old 29th November 2019, 16:46   #11
smudge.g
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Thanks gents, wow that arm looks ready to collapse!! Everything on the rear was replaced earlier this yaer but I still have an annoying knocking on both sides and can only think that the rose joints are to blame, as its constant. Will have to wait till next week now as working nights over weekend
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Old 29th November 2019, 18:40   #12
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Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Did pretty much the same when I replaced mine Bri - cut the bolt ends off as they were seized solid and then removed the rubber dust cover, made a small cut in the steel locking ring and removed the rose joint then used a puller to remove the housing.











Thanks for the excellent pics, Mike. They give some insight into the construction of this joint, although I don't quite understand what the "locking rings" are. Are they what retain the swivel ball in the centre of the joint? I hadn't realised that the central bush was separate from the ball - I thought it was made as one. Is part of the swivel arrangement made from some kind of plastic? - the cylindrical bit with the longitudinal slots in it looks like plastic/nylon or similar. And thanks for the link to that press kit, Brian - that costs less than 1hour's garage labour. Incidentally, all bolts I have tackled on mine, including this one, have undone cleanly, and been re-usable. Trikey - how long has that arm been rotting without being discovered by an MoT examiner? I changed (and scrapped) mine because, while electric wire brushing it, I produced a hole about 30mm x 10mm along the front edge, just above the seam. The spring cup and everywhere else, despite a little surface rust, was sound and perforation free. Should I just have patch-welded it, and kept it in reserve? Every day is a learning day!
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Old 29th November 2019, 19:26   #13
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Thanks gents, wow that arm looks ready to collapse!! Everything on the rear was replaced earlier this yaer but I still have an annoying knocking on both sides and can only think that the rose joints are to blame, as its constant. Will have to wait till next week now as working nights over weekend



Not just ready to collapse but indeed it did causing the inner side of the tyre to be ripped to shreds from a bolt sticking out into the wheel arch.. Andy has a pic i'm sure he can share ..lol
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Old 29th November 2019, 21:33   #14
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how long has that arm been rotting without being discovered by an MoT examiner?

In all fairness to the examiner the arm looked fine to us too a couple of weeks ago when the rear pads were replaced. The painted surface looked fine but broke apart when the arm bent showing the rot underneath.
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Old 29th November 2019, 21:39   #15
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Not just ready to collapse but indeed it did causing the inner side of the tyre to be ripped to shreds from a bolt sticking out into the wheel arch.. Andy has a pic i'm sure he can share ..lol


And here it is Pete

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Old 30th November 2019, 16:52   #16
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Well the arm came off, the only issue was the inner bolt which was reluctant to come out so we had to go gently using a pint of plus gas!

Thankfully the outer bush bolt came out nicely.

A gentle tap to remove the factory paint shows how bad the arm was.



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Old 30th November 2019, 17:03   #17
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Think the paint was about the only thing that was keeping it all together On a more serious note it does go to show that just a visual inspection is not good enough to get a proper idea of how much the corrosion has eaten into them!
While i'm here once again i'd like to publicly thank Andy for working his magic on the old girl once again... As i said to him earlier she probably would have been off the road permanently were it not for his help and skill with these old cars as the rational part of me would have had to take some hard decisions about her future!

Cheers Andy ... The club would be a poorer place without you
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Old 30th November 2019, 18:12   #18
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Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb View Post
Thanks for the excellent pics, Mike. They give some insight into the construction of this joint, although I don't quite understand what the "locking rings" are. Are they what retain the swivel ball in the centre of the joint? I hadn't realised that the central bush was separate from the ball - I thought it was made as one. Is part of the swivel arrangement made from some kind of plastic? - the cylindrical bit with the longitudinal slots in it looks like plastic/nylon or similar.
!
Yes the steel rings hold the rose joint in place. Both the bolts on my car were rusted solid and no amount of hammering and soaking in Plus Gas worked to free them, so removing the ring was the next best option.

And yes again the rose joint is located in a plastic inner housing.
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Old 30th November 2019, 21:28   #19
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Jonc does that mean you had to remove the hub to get it under a 20T press? I still haven't replaced the one to go with my new upper arm, as I didn't have a long enough high tensile bolt. However, removing the rubbers, and putting 2 smaller sockets over the central bushing, putting the bolt through, and tightening it hard to squeeze the cups, got rid of the play, which was mainly vertical, greased and replaced rubbers. Just passed MoT! I'm thinking I'll ask the garage to do it when I'm not using the car for 1 week after Christmas, as I don't think it will be long before it loosens off!
Yes mate my arm was off as I am restoring the whole suspension. I managed to do the front subframe bushes using the puller method but couldn't get these to budge even with heat. Saying that the other lads posting have come up with some great ideas. The engineering firm only charged me a small amount so I was happy
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