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25th November 2016, 23:49 | #21 | |
Posted a thing or two
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Does seem unlikely that every battery is kaput though. But as already pointed out, the only way to truly test whether a battery is good or not is a Load pull test, which most independent car battery sellers will do FOC.
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26th November 2016, 08:42 | #22 | |
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26th November 2016, 10:24 | #23 | |
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A current consumption of 0.47mA is not sufficient to power the car's circuitry in the idle state. A long-idle state current of 20 to 50mA would be more typical for a "modern car" depending on the power-down state of the electronics. If it is 470mA, I would start off by checking the 5W light bulbs e.g. glove compartment light. If you are unable to find something obvious, the best way forward is to check the current drain whilst systematically removing fuses. Last edited by MSS; 26th November 2016 at 13:47.. |
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26th November 2016, 11:08 | #24 |
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MG Rover Technical Tip TT0036
Maximum expected battery current drain Ignition off for up to 18 minutes: 1 to 2 amps Ignition off after 18 minutes (sleep mode): 30 to 45 mA TC |
26th November 2016, 11:13 | #25 | |
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So, as above, 0.47mA is not correct and suggests a problem with the measurement. The expected measurement would be over 20mA and under 50mA in idle (sleep) mode. |
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26th November 2016, 13:20 | #26 |
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I think Wes's experience with the voltmeter might not be as good as some on here. I'll bet it's 47mA and all is well.
Or it could be .47 of one amp on a 0-10a scale. Almost half an amp which could be a small bulb as suggested. The small cheap digital meters usually just have a 0-10a scale. Blackrose Last edited by Blackrose; 26th November 2016 at 13:35.. |
26th November 2016, 13:56 | #27 | ||||
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The spare batteries are not on any vehicle, they are kept in my little workshop. Each one gets charged separately using a regular 12V battery charger that is set to 'trickle' charge (not the fast-charge option), usually left on charge for 24 hours. Quote:
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Something does seem quite strange, or unless its my readings or settings, or my cheap meter. I have just been and checked again, ignition off and car was not started, so vehicle should be in (sleep mode). The reading I got this time was 0.29ma, if I open the drivers door to trigger the interior lights, I get a 1.91ma reading, I'm not sure why I had a 0.47 reading last night. The battery reading with noting attached reads 12.64v, and battery reading with engine running is 14.44v, this would indicate my alternator is charging the battery which is nice to know. Does this all sound correct to you guys, or am I doing something wrong? Cheers all. Ignition off, doors closed, car was not started. Reading with door open. Battery reading with nothing connected: 12.64v. Battery reading with engine running: 14.44v, would indicate the alternator is charging the battery. Last edited by Dallas; 26th November 2016 at 14:33.. |
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26th November 2016, 15:13 | #28 |
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I think it's OK. Anyone disagree
Blackrose |
26th November 2016, 16:28 | #29 |
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It looks like you are on a ten amp scale.
.29 is over quarter of an amp. This would take quite a while to discharge your battery but it would slowly do that. That TRICKLE charge you talk about OVERNIGHT. NO !!!!! That trickle charge should be permanently on as a maintenance charge. ( Usually around one amp or a little less. ) You could put three fully charged batteries on in parallel with that sort of charge and it would just about cope with them. ( Have you had a read about batteries in the section at the top of the main page entitled----- REALLY, REALLY useful section ??? ) |
26th November 2016, 16:34 | #30 |
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Your battery reading is correct.
Your charging reading is correct. Your meter is working just fine. However you STILL have a LARGE current leak somewhere.---- ( well, large-ish for a leak. Lol ) There's a small bulb, hidden away, just gently glowing somewhere.--Keeping the mice in your wiring warm.-- |
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