My CDTi belt/crank pulley change saga - Page 2

michael peters · 15th January 2015, 18:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

Well, many thanks to Andrew (first-things-irst - nice to speak to you on the phone earlier, Andrew)

I took his advice and placed a jack under the engine, and then removed the upper engine mount, including the bracket over the hydramount and the bracket behind the hydramount that bolts to the inner wing. This then gives plenty of room for the long 24mm spanner to swing back through a good arc when placed on the tensioner - see photos below for the 'starting' position for the removal of the main auxillary belt. With the spanner initially resting against the slam panel, I pushed it back until it was just past the vertical position, and the tensioner released, and it was easy to reach underneath and slip the belt off the crank pulley whilst holding the spanner up above. A couple of 10mm bolts to release and the air con belt was off in no time.

Only two and a half hours on the job so far, and I have not even tackled the crank pulley bolt yet !

I have bolted the engine mount sback in place, because I think I will need all the help I can get when it comes to shifting the pulley bolt - it seems sensible to have the engine well strapped down for that !

I really do not think I could have got the belts off using the accepted method of attacking the tensioner from underneath the wheel arch - Andrew had to get his done from the top as well on his 2005 car. Perhaps there is something about the very late cars (2005) that have a different tensioner or less clearance that makes the job almost impossible using the usual method in the manuals.

Anyway, updates will follow - next job is to get the starter motor off ready for attacking the pulley bolt - might be tomorrow or day after.

Pete

Nice looking engine bay, me envious, mine came from a muddy country area so is nowhere near as clean.

first-things-first · 15th January 2015, 18:46

Excellent news. Glad I could help.

calibrax · 15th January 2015, 19:21

~~Just remember that the pulley bolt is a reverse thread, i.e. anticlockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen... something all too easily forgotten leading to much effort for no reason!~~

Please ignore this...!

Mike Noc · 15th January 2015, 19:34

Steve to save someone suffering a hernia, you are talking about the tensioner bearing being left handed and not the crank pulley bolt.

calibrax · 15th January 2015, 19:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Steve to save someone suffering a hernia, you are talking about the tensioner bearing being left handed and not the crank pulley bolt.

whoops!

Ignore me, I'm having a bad day...

Mike Noc · 15th January 2015, 20:20

Delete it it if you want mate and I'll delete both of mine. No one will be any the wiser.

EastPete · 15th January 2015, 21:06

I had a hernia repair operation 3 months ago, so I definitely want to undo the pulley bolt in the right direction !! - I may use an air impact wrench anyway, if I can't shift it myself, and to avoid too much strain.

Thanks

Pete

EastPete · 16th January 2015, 18:06

Well - progress today - went out to the garage fairly late due to a busy work day. Disconnected the battery and removed the starter motor (top bolt a bit difficult to get at, but not too bad).

I could not see any evidence of the 15mm bolts on the flywheel that could be used to lock it, according to another 'how to' thread on this forum. So I jammed a tyre lever into the starter motor 'hole' to lock the flywheel starter ring teeth - seemed to work OK. Now the fun part - I started with just a 3/4 inch 22mm socket on a short extension bar on the pulley bolt and a 2 foot breaker bar - nothing. Went to a three foot breaker bar - still nothing and the bar was bending that much I feared it might snap. Fearing for my recent hernia repair, I fired up the compressor and put the air impact wrench on the bolt- still nothing, even at full power setting. I was about to give up for today, thinking I would need to go out and buy a more powerful impact wrench (like the Clarke 1000 electric impact wrench, twice as powerful as my cheap air one) when I thought I would just try making a long extension bar out of various 3/4 inch extension bars, so that it would clear the wheel arch to get more leverage. I really did not think this would work, as there were too many joins, so I thought it would flex too much. Anyway, I cobbled it together, put a two foot breaker bar on the end, then slipped a 5 foot scaffold pole over that. Started to pull up on it, and lo and behold, I felt movement, and the bolt had freed, much to my amazement ! I am still in shock !

Going for lie down now ! - I will start putting it back together over the weekend. I assume there is no key or locating pin to go in the cut outs on the back of the pulley and end of the crankshaft - nothing fell out when I took the pulley off, so I assume I put it back on with just the bolt and washer (I have new ones from Rimmers).

Pete

Mike Noc · 16th January 2015, 19:01

Good work Pete. Yes there is no key for the pulley - the diesels aren't timed from the pulley so no need for one.

Probably why the bolt is so tight.

FrenchMike · 16th January 2015, 19:20

Looks easy with the right tool ....

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se..._damper_(m47)/

I think the trick is to limit flexions ..

15th January 2015, 19:21	#13
calibrax Posted a thing or two BMW 4 Series Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rochester, Kent Posts: 1,975 Thanks: 29 Thanked 37 Times in 28 Posts	~~Just remember that the pulley bolt is a reverse thread, i.e. anticlockwise to tighten, clockwise to loosen... something all too easily forgotten leading to much effort for no reason!~~ Please ignore this...! __________________ Steve 2004 MG ZT+ CDTi 160 (sadly now gone!) 2015 BMW 435d GranCoupe XDrive Last edited by calibrax; 15th January 2015 at 19:56.. Reason: I'm an idiot

16th January 2015, 19:20	#20
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Looks easy with the right tool .... http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se..._damper_(m47)/ I think the trick is to limit flexions .. Last edited by FrenchMike; 16th January 2015 at 19:25..

15th January 2015, 18:46	#12
first-things-first Posted a thing or two MG ZT Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Hornchurch Posts: 1,255 Thanks: 176 Thanked 352 Times in 272 Posts	Excellent news. Glad I could help.

15th January 2015, 19:34	#14
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Steve to save someone suffering a hernia, you are talking about the tensioner bearing being left handed and not the crank pulley bolt.

15th January 2015, 20:20	#16
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Delete it it if you want mate and I'll delete both of mine. No one will be any the wiser.

15th January 2015, 21:06	#17
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	I had a hernia repair operation 3 months ago, so I definitely want to undo the pulley bolt in the right direction !! - I may use an air impact wrench anyway, if I can't shift it myself, and to avoid too much strain. Thanks Pete

16th January 2015, 19:01	#19
Mike Noc This is my second home Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Hampshire Posts: 11,547 Thanks: 3,470 Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts	Good work Pete. Yes there is no key for the pulley - the diesels aren't timed from the pulley so no need for one. Probably why the bolt is so tight.